Deli

Thanks for the critique JHCC! As far as the handle goes, if I went much smaller it wouldn't fit the hand. Is proportion more important than functionality? I don't wanna make "wall hangers", I want to be able to grab and use any blade I make. And I'm not arguing your critique, just asking because I need to learn? Also I see the fit and finish concerns, and I knew what I had to do better, I just wasn't sure how with my limited tools. That's was made with an ammo can forge, a homemade venturi burner, a 20oz framing hammer, and sanded by hand. Again thanks for the constructive criticism, and I will take it all and use it on my next endeavor!

This is my first amd latest. Blade forged from an old file, handle is ash that I cut for firewood, and guard and buttcap are copper that was a welding tip. All opinions and comments good or bad welcomed. This was my first and need criticism to improve

Again thank you for all the great advice and information. One more question about the anvil. Would it hurt anything to clean up all the rust and put a light coat of oil or something to prevent future rust on it?

Thanks to all of you!! I appreciate all the info, and being new to the blacksmith world I will Def do as you all have suggested and will hopefully suggest in the near future! I'm very glad to have joined this group or forum, as everyone has been very nice, respectful, and helpful!!

25 minutes ago, Irondragon ForgeClay Works said:

As far as the square hole, which is called a hardy hole to hold hardy bottom tools, I wouldn't do anything to it, just forge the hardy tool shank to fit it.

I meant the surface. I've read that people have the top of the anvils milled when they get scars in them. 

On 9/23/2021 at 9:48 AM, JHCC said:

Beechwood fires are bright and clear
If the logs are kept a year,
Chestnut's only good they say,
If for logs 'tis laid away.
Make a fire of Elder tree,
Death within your house will be;
But ash new or ash old,
Is fit for a queen with crown of gold

Birch and fir logs burn too fast
Blaze up bright and do not last,
it is by the Irish said
Hawthorn bakes the sweetest bread.
Elm wood burns like churchyard mould,
E'en the very flames are cold
But ash green or ash brown
Is fit for a queen with golden crown

Poplar gives a bitter smoke,
Fills your eyes and makes you choke,
Apple wood will scent your room
Pear wood smells like flowers in bloom
Oaken logs, if dry and old
keep away the winter's cold
But ash wet or ash dry
a king shall warm his slippers by.

-- Lady Celia Congreve

I'm gonna try to memorize that poem! I like it, and seems true and useful! 

OK cool, so it is an address then. I really appreciate you using your time to help a newcomer like myself with such a petty question! Lol. 

3 hours ago, JHCC said:

Welcome to IFI!

Thanks for the warm welcome. And yeah $27. I couldn't pull the money out fast enough! And I've seen other mankel anvils with diff box #'s on them. So I believe that would eliminate his address?

3 hours ago, George N. M. said:

Welcome aboard.  Glad to have you.

That is a great score.  I bought by first 100# anvil in 1978 for $25 but this is a better anvil and in constant dollars much cheaper.

Thanks for the welcome. I know what P.O. boxes are because I have one, bit I've seen other mankel anvils with diff box numbers. So he changed his P.O.box # over the time that he made anvils then I'm guessing?

Another question. The marks around the square hole, should I have them milled out, or they aren't really important since they aren't on the working area? 

Any info would be greatly appreciated. Got this for $27 last night. I would like to know what the "box" # means, and if it's a good anvil for a brand new bladesmith to start with? At least I hope to be at minimum my own knife maker! Lol. The working surface has a wonderful ring to it. Idk how or what to do for the bounce back test? And there's just a couple minor marks on the working section, and a small chip on the edge