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Posts posted by Ferrous Beuler
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It is full of quirks, that's for sure.
The "shelf" makes no sense. Odd duck.
Hole in side and hollow body makes good provision for anchor chain though... -
200 lbs at $325 = $1.62 per lb. Not a bad deal.
http://rochester.craigslist.org/tls/2325150984.html -
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Estate auction in Silver Springs N.Y. April 30th includes Sears anvil.
http://www.harriswilcox.com/upcoming_auctions/detail.php?id=24 -
Repetition.
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I wish my dentist could work that fast!
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Saw this in my local auction listings, Peter Wright anvil included in pics of items to be auctioned.
I alerted DiverMike to this but he must be out of town, haven't heard back. Auction is Wedesday in New York.
http://www.bontragerauction.com/April-13th-Wednesday-Night-Auction-ag155739.php -
In that case he should fire Art and run a solo shop, just do the smithing and welding on his own if Art ain't worth keeping around. :rolleyes:
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Thomas is right, colluding to manipulate an auction is illegal. Best keep your distance.
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That is beautiful. Just cruising around IFI, I don't often wander into the sword area but I can certainly recognize exquisite beauty when I see it.
I have a Japanese sword here hanging on my wall, a WWII bring back of my late uncle's from Iwo Jima. It is a factory made "run of the mill" type, nothing like the quality here.
Bravo! That's nice to look at. -
Howdy, chichi. Try this site, best I know of on the subject. Great bunch of amazingly talented folks here-
http://americanlongrifles.org/forum/index.php -
I would take it back to their shop, in person, and make some friends. They will no doubt be happy to get their blade back (valuable to them) instead of you wasting your time with something you cannot use (worthless to you).
Explain that you are a blacksmith and would very much appreciate any scraps in the future.
The art of the scrap hound is learned in the environs of the shops which cast off the gold you seek, grasshopper... (showing up with the occaisional dozen doughnuts can work wizardry). -
Very nice anvil. That should hold you for a while until you can find a big one. :rolleyes:
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GREAT TABLE, EXCELLENT DESIGN!
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Great vid! Thanks for sharing that, Capt.
There's a lot to be said for having a shop floor made of wood blocks.
When I worked as a carknocker in the old PRR roundhouse in West Senceca N.Y. the floor was oak blocks like this one.
Working on a concrete floor all day is tough on the back but not nearly so with a block floor. Also there was no heat in the roundhouse and if it's winter a concrete floor will sap the body heat right out of your feet in no time but a block floor won't. -
And you thought anvil prices have gone up. Check this one out... http://cgi.ebay.com/Large-Antique-Iron-Smelting-Ladle-Blacksmith-Tool-/230464233913?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item35a8bd21b9
Boy you ain't kidding Thomas! Check out the seller's other items listed, is he trying to retire by next week?
I saw a Yeungling beer tray in there that I know goes for $40-$50 tops if it is in mint condition, this guy has one priced in the clouds. Ridiculous. -
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I'll be interested to see your results. I used to make a lot of marine fastenings. Really enjoyed working with silicone-bronze. I ran into problems heading stainless (probably 316 iirc). using a loose header, the shank would often tear where it meets the head. With most materials I've worked with a little of the head material will extrude down the hole in a loose tool. It doesn't seem the stainless likes to do that and I ended up using split gripper type headed whenever I was working stainless.
You might consider using silicon bronze for you project. Might be able to do them cold to keep them stiff, but you'll still probably need to drill pilot holes when using them. Fine work is always done that way anyway.
I'd go with Bob Mainly's and Grant Sarver's suggestion and see about the feasibility of bronze.
Pilot holes would of course be a must, the ID of the pilot holes likely being very close to the OD of the nails due to the hardness of oak. I once built a treestand for deer hunting with kiln dried maple and had a real bear of a time driving 16p nails even with pilot holes, they were bending like they were made of rubber, hard hard stuff! I wound up forsaking the nails and bolting everything together.
I can remember when I was a kid in the 70's rowing around in an old wooden boat at a lake where my grandparents had a cottage. My great grandfather bought the cottage in 1907, the boat was his and dates from the 1800's, a lot like an Adirondack guide boat. That was about the only type of boat on Chautauqua lake in those early days. The boat today is still there in rough condition stored in the rafters of my cousin's carriage house a few streets away from the cottage. It has lots of bronze nails in it and other bronze fittings. They have a patina but no weep lines into the wood as would be seen with steel. That old boat saw an awful lot of use for probably the better part of eighty years. In the winter it was simply placed upside down in the yard on pieces of split cordwood, no tarp or anything covering it and it got a coat of varnish every now and then. Through all of that there is no staining of the bronze into the wood. -
I would maybe be interested if it could toast raisin bread, anybody can forge a regular toaster...
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The one with the guys in the desert with the stake anvil forging the dagger was really cool but after watching that my knees are just absolutely killing me!
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Billy blacksmith took an axe, gave his mother forty whacks. When he'd seen what he had done he gave his father forty one...
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"Where do blowers come from"?
I think they come from the blower fairy, honestly.
I bought a Champion 400 from a man once for $50 and he threw in another complete but disassembled 400 for free.
The blower fairy works in mysterious ways... -
Awesome! Sounds like a plan but can I still go to the parade ? Pwitty pwitty pweeeeeeez ???
Anvil I.D. Help, Please.
in Anvils, Swage Blocks, and Mandrels
Posted
This anvil may be a Peter Wright but I can't be sure because it lacks the usual PW markings. Does anyone know if that firm produced anvils without the usual "PETER WRIGHT PATENT ENGLAND SOLID WROUGHT" markings?
It does have the stepped feet characteristic of PW's.
The only marks on this anvil are the stone weight digits in the waist 2 - 1 - 17 and also below that, centered under the 1 is an upper case "B". There are no markings on the feet. (standard size 12 oz beer can for scale).
Any insight would be greatly appreciated, Thank You!
-Dan.