Toasty

Thank you buzzkill,

I understand that the refractory coating will suppress ejection of fibers, provide that I am perfect, and do not puncture the coating.

I know that the very first chunk of steel I place in the forge, will miss, puncture the refractory, and send a cloud of fibers out of the forge (but that's me).

Conversely, the ceramic wool has 'solidified', as stated by devil-forge.

Have installed all items in accordance with manufacturers instructions.

Am contemplating - removing it all,

install new ceramic wool, rigidizer, kastolite30 (or equivalent).

Best Regards, 

I have researched this topic (use of rigidizer to suppress ceramic particles ejecting from the  forge),  here, and elsewhere, but the  no need of rigidizer is new to me.

I purchased a new forge (devil-forge), and was concerned about the coating they provided for the forge, it appears to be a clay colored refactory coating.

Contacted the manufacturer re: rigidizer not included.  They said, the refractory coating they provided is adequate - you do not need rigidizer to prevent 

dissipation of ceramic wool particles, it will 'fuse by itself' when the forge is heated.

(their actual statement is: 'ceramic wool hardens itself when it is heated for the first time, so we don't think there is a necessity of spraying any additional substance before applying our rigidizer'.) They refer to their refractory coating as both refractory and a rigidizer.

This was a surprise for me - I have not read about the self-sealing ceramic wool, all I have read indicates a requirement to seal the ceramic wool by means of a

rigidizer (such as sodium silicate, or fumed silica), never by itself.

Can ceramic wool harden by itself without rigidizer?

I really do not want to get silicosis.

Thanks in advance.