Toasty

Thank you buzzkill, I understand that the refractory coating will suppress ejection of fibers, provide that I am perfect, and do not puncture the coating. I know that the very first chunk of steel I place in the forge, will miss, puncture the refractory, and send a cloud of fibers out of the forge (but that's me). Conversely, the ceramic wool has 'solidified', as stated by devil-forge. Have installed all items in accordance with manufacturers instructions. Am contemplating - removing it all, install new ceramic wool, rigidizer, kastolite30 (or equivalent). Best Regards,

I have researched this topic (use of rigidizer to suppress ceramic particles ejecting from the forge), here, and elsewhere, but the no need of rigidizer is new to me. I purchased a new forge (devil-forge), and was concerned about the coating they provided for the forge, it appears to be a clay colored refactory coating. Contacted the manufacturer re: rigidizer not included. They said, the refractory coating they provided is adequate - you do not need rigidizer to prevent dissipation of ceramic wool particles, it will 'fuse by itself' when the forge is heated. (their actual statement is: 'ceramic wool hardens itself when it is heated for the first time, so we don't think there is a necessity of spraying any additional substance before applying our rigidizer'.) They refer to their refractory coating as both refractory and a rigidizer. This was a surprise for me - I have not read about the self-sealing ceramic wool, all I have read indicates a requirement to seal the ceramic wool by means of a rigidizer (such as sodium silicate, or fumed silica), never by itself. Can ceramic wool harden by itself without rigidizer? I really do not want to get silicosis. Thanks in advance.