cleatusj

I paid 72.00 for 55lb's of KOL from a local company, which saved me 40,00 in shipping.

Here's one you could trust for a long time.

2 hours ago, localsmith said:

DO buy an inverter welder. 

As a Newby welder and machine user, you should check your information before so stanchly telling someone not to doo something.

We have been using several Miller inverter welders, for structural vertical up welds with 1/2" and thicker metal. We use 7018 and they are powered by boom lifts on board generator. These are small suitcase machines.

There are welding forums that have very good reviews of both Chinese and name brand inverter machines. 

Frosty, I'm working my way shorter, as I test, to try and learn the affects. With this cross starting with 12" ,  then 8" and down to 6".

I increased every other hole to 1/8 inch, as the flames were lifting.  It got a lot better, so I went to 5" and it still improved.

It enters the NARB at 85 deg. 

I used a cut down hydraulic fitting, screwed to a close nipple. The fitting had a 3/8" hole that accepted the 1/8" sch 80 nipple for adjustment.

This is the 5" pipe at 15 psi after 3 minuets. I'll try a 4" after it cools down outside to 90.

Being new and diving in with a lot of reading, I miss comprehend and have to back track. I've choose to try several different lengths of pipe  and sizes and the one that seems to work best is the 8" with the 1/2" cross.

Here's a pic of the pipes and the cross. The .023 tip and valve are still on the hose. The best burn and after shut off.

Went back and ran the burner with the 1/2" intakes with a .035 tip. First is at 1-2 psi and then at 5 psi.

Here's a pic of the one with larger intake with the .035 tip.

And the one with the smaller intakes.

All our minds work a little differently, so at any given time anyone could trigger another different way of doing something. I like getting feedback.

3 minutes ago, Another FrankenBurner said:

 I recall someone else on the forum saying the same thing about orifice position not changing much on their NARB as well.

That was why I threw together the second burner, with the 1/2" pipe size inlets instead of the 3/4" openings, to slow the induction. 

With the adjustable depth tip, i release set screw and move to the other tee and tube.

With the fact that all nails pulled out easy from the Kast-o-lite, I thought I would explain how it was done.

First was drilling a piece of 1/2" lexan and coating it and the nails with petroleum jelly and axle grease. Wrapped the sides of the form with clear packing tape, before coating with the grease. Each piece of the form was removable, encase it stuck.

I

I swifted the KoL thru some window screen, until there was 1/2 cup of cement, that was added into more KoL for the cast. This left a smooth finish when removed from form.

Frosty T inspired would be the best description. Both have a positionable orifice and using .023 mig tips. Sliding the tip only seems to make a difference without the NARB. 

I will try another tip after dark tonight.

Found this thread while waiting for materials to come in to build a 20 pound propane forge. I decided first to build in an old 2 gallon gas can and use a NARB. My NARB is 1 1/2 x 6 with 63 .143 size holes, these were cast with greased 12 penny nails. Tried firing  with a 1/2 " frosty tee but the flames just lifted off. Then a new Frosty with a 1/2" cross, all 4 sides 1/2", this worked a charm, for keeping the flames on the Narb.

When the forge finishes curing in a couple days, i'll test in the forge.

I'm Real new, but I do know that you need to wet the insulation and the old kast-o-lite befor adding the new.

At 10 to 15 psi the flames went orange.

My pipe ID measures .62 x 8 = 4.96 . I measure to have 5" of pipe from the 1" hole to the end of threads. This seems to tell me to find a smaller mig tip. 

Best pic I could get at this time.

Mikey, I have the inside junction funneled, even the top of pipe is tapered. I cut 5/8" of threads off the 6" nipple, so I may need to remove another 1". In the pic it's only running 3psi.

Here's the first look at my version of a 1/2" Frosty T. I drilled a 1 3/4 x 1 1/4 bar with 1" hole saw, then 3/8" length wise for the 1/8" sch 80 pipe holding a .023 mig tip. I then drilled the other end 7/8" to create the tee so I could weld in a 6" x 1/2" nipple, with the threads cut off the welded end. I drilled and taped for a 1/4" set screw to set depth of mig tip.  The is the first firing if the burner, that I plan to use for a NARB.

Here's some teasers. First is my 2z72.

First forge.

My improvised anvil with 3/4" hardy hole and large drawing round, also have a 2" round. 

Here are my first knives and electrical pvc sheaths.

Thanks Randy, been reading for several weeks and have not learned the first 1 percent of what is available here. I try to find the info I think I need before my questions start flowing out in posts. I get better answers when I know what to ask about.

Just west of the metromess. Made a few knifes from a saw blade and needed away to heat treat them. I built a hard firebrick forge and forced air burner.

Now I'm waiting on more supplies to show up to build a 20lb propane tank forge. I have a little extra KOL, as I bought a 55lb bag.

I've built a 2x72 grinder and a improvised anvil. I'm in the process of building my version of a 1/2" frosty. Tongs  will be my first BS project.

I've read enough to state that I've read "Read this First" LOL

Thanks for such a great place to learn all this stuff.