Machine shop

Thanks. Good idea

Next version…….ha ha! All seems to work ok. You need to be careful when winding the cable back on the winch spool as it is easy to kink the wire. This is a bit frustrating, but the only real alternative is to use my pull lift instead, which means lifting it in place each time.

So I completed the project by making a block lifting tool to fit in either the centre hole to lift the block evenly, or one

of outside holes to change orientation 

Proof is in the using! If it works then it’s successful.

I did consider a gantry style structure, and while this is structurally much better, you do not have the flexibility to move the crane in an arc. This allows you to move the block about a bit easier and (if you are careful!) off the stand.

2 minutes ago, JHCC said:

What's the provision for standing the block on edge?

The cast stand has a recess for putting the block on edge. I plan to make a lifting sling that will allow the transition from horizontal to vertical.

Ok I am setting myself up for a fall with a topic title like that but here goes….

stand in operating mode

Moving stand around sho

p

lifting block with crane 

the pole is a bit thin wall, while it lifts the block is is a bit flexible. This will be replaced by a scaffold pole which will be more suitable. 
the block is supported by adjustable feet and only runs on the wheels when jacked up

The part below the block is the original cast iron stand with horizontal and vertical positions

Sorry, a bit rude 

On 9/6/2022 at 6:17 PM, Charles R. Stevens said:

If you don’t like the bick in the thigh, just raise it a few inches….

Lol! A bick and xxxx collision is never pleasant.

I knew what you meant! A 300lb anvil is a fair meal

It was a bit short the other way round!

Thanks Glenn, bit of oak my tree surgeon friend had.

frosty, definitely a couple of Pac-Men!

I am glad I am not the only one suffering from bruises on the thigh!!

Anybody else resorted to this solution?

19 hours ago, ThomasPowers said:

Looks *useful*!   (High praise for tools!)

Thanks

I finished the block off today. Welded on some tabs so it registers in the top of the anvil as suggested by jobtiel.

23 hours ago, Charles R. Stevens said:

Not poopoo’n your work MC. I wish I had your toys!

I am very lucky that I have an understanding wife who lets me haul this old iron and give it a good home!

Quick update, I have now smoothed out the milling steps using a carbide burr. Btw if you have not discovered carbide burrs for die grinders I recommend you do. They are much more suitable for any significant metal removal than the abrasive points traditionally used in due grinding. Clearly these have there place and that is where I will go next to polish up the surface.

Wow, that is a bit more advanced than my attempt! So far I am probably 3 or 4 hours in to the project. Still have to smooth out the swage and weld on feet tabs

Great idea, the track is a bit wider than the anvil so this will work well. Thanks

A carbide ball ended slot drill arrived in the post so I could progress carving some radii into the rail. I still need to take a burr and clean the radii up and then polish with some abrasive wheels.
The other picture shows the swage block mounted on the anvil using a hold down through the Pritchel hole.

I have chipped a few tips cutting the rail. I think it would just laugh at hss tooling.

Hi all. I have had an orphan bit of rail track in the shed that I keep stubbing my toe on so on a wet Saturday I decided to make a swage block out of it.

Currently just in the roughing out stage. I am cutting it using indexible carbide tools, but it is pretty tough and so slow going.

It will have 3 off 90 deg grooves, 3 off 180 deg radii grooves and a larger radius.

I am currently waiting for a carbide ball end mill to arrive in the post for finishing the radii

Macleod, I would love to hear feedback on the chip forge. I have one of the forge/ brazing hearth combos but I don’t use it much now I have a small propane forge I can move outside. Those chip forges seem to be very cheap on the uk

Btw I posted some pics of my shop in the ‘show me your shop’ section if you want to see some of the other old iron I have crammed in the workshop

Just now, JHCC said:

Seems counterintuitive, as the camouflage would make it harder to see. 

Lol!

Biggundoctor. Nice collection. It’s so handy to have machining and grinding capability at your disposal, even if you are doing blacksmithing or even car maintenance. So easy to put together a quick tool when needed 

If you have a decent compressor already a utility hammer like this may make sense. I suspect a tyre hammer is the lower cost option if you do not. I have not used a tyre hammer but I get the impression that they cannot accept as big a range of height workpieces (or tooling) as a utility hammer. I am sure wiser folks than me exist on this forum who could give you a better comparison. The closes commercial solution to what I have build is the kz100 hammer.

Hi big gun doctor. It is a Victoria omnimil 01. They were later sold by Elliott. It has a 30int vertical spindle and a 40int horizontal, they are driven independently. It’s a lot more ridgid than a series 1 Bridgeport as it is based around a horizontal mill, but the turret head makes it really flexible ( the opposite of rigid???!)