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canada goose

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Posts posted by canada goose

  1. I am about 1/2 way through a C.Spencer tire hammer build. Going ok with one problem. The mounting plate warped in the welding process . I am wondering about pouring grout under the plate . There are some epoxy gouts out there ( expensive) and cementitious grout (cheaper) .Or maybe a sheet of High quality plywood with plate well bolted down .If anyone has experience with this Id appreciate input.

     

     

     

     

     

     

  2. I think there is some confusion around the word "tempering" To temper is to soften steel after it has been hardened by heating past the transition point(approx. non magnetic) and quenched. Tempering typically done from 400- 650 F with 400 or so being typical for hammers. I appreciate your point about 4140 not being a technically fussy steel . I would like to not screw this up as each die will have about 50$  Cdn. worth of steel . Thanks for all input.

  3. On 2016-11-08 at 5:33 AM, c.baum said:

    4140 (or 42CrMo4) is a pretty undemanding steel. Just heat up to 820-880°C (light red), soak for 10-15 min and quench in water or oil. Don't forget to stop the quenching at 70°C and to temper immediately. 400°C is pretty hard to tell by annealing colors. I made some tolls of 4140 by quenching in water an annealing in the kitchen oven at full power. It worked really good. As i said the steel is really undemanding and pardons a lot of mistreatment. 

    If you were tempering in the kitchen oven it is unlikely you were at 400 C (750F) Perhaps you meant tempering at 400F or 200C ? I think I can see giving it a try . By the time my little one burner has it up to temp it will have more or less soaked at 1200 and if I can throttle it a bit or open the door to avoid going too high can get a soak at light red. Thanks all for input.

  4. tire hammer dies : I am in process of building a tire hammer a la Clay spencer. I am wondering about the procedure for making the dies. The plans call for 4140 welded to mild steel plate. Heating to 1200 F ,soaking for 15 min rise to 1575 and soak for 10 min Then quenching in warm oil. Can I do this in my little nc propane just using heat colors to guestimate temp? or should I find a heat treating service which won't be less than an hours drive away,if they will do it.

  5. On March 7, 2016 at 0:35 PM, j.w.s. said:

    Why not use a photoscale virtualization weights and measures app for your phone? Simply place an object of known size in the picture and select material. Viola, done! You guys really like doing things the hard way.. :)

    J

     

     How does the app measure size. Or does it require input from user?

     

  6. I like the jig you show.  And the some of my uncertainties would apply to that pn 37 ,but the "dog bone " I refer to is the link weldment pn 211.

    It uses 1"x11/2"I sch80 pipe and an oilite bearing the same as pn37 .I presume the ends of the 11/2" pieces would be squared in the lathe before welding. But can the pipe ends be bored square to the sides after welding? The oilite bearings I find at MSC are .0753 inside .Is this 3 thou. a standard clearance for a 3/4 pin? The plans say to press bearing in and then ream to .750" . Shared insight appreciated.

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

  7. In the video it looks like the shovels are given a quick cooling in water and the tempering is from residual heat . Maybe as bigfoot says cold  bending is safer. If his method doesn't work Is there a shop nearby with a hydraulic press ? I wonder if a LOT of cold hammering on the blade would lead to work hardening and embrittling. 

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