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I Forge Iron

karcher.dc

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About karcher.dc

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Evansville, IN
  • Interests
    Blacksmithing, knife making, archery

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  1. No I did not hollow out the bottom. I built a framed out box to use as a guide and then used a chainsaw with guide blocks glued onto the saw arm. It worked great!
  2. My goal was 31-32”, but proper leveling got me to 30” and it works, I may mount a 2x12 platform to the bottom side that makes a sort of lip to increase stability...
  3. Update- got the anvil setup this morning, got it sitting on a solid red oak stump and leveled it, removed bark and oiled up.. face of the anvil sits exactly 30” from the ground and is super solid..
  4. I am very happy in this purchase, and like you i think the history with them is awesome! I cant believe the shape it is in for being 120+ years old..
  5. i can get one after work. but I agree with you based on your initial post. I also believe it is pre 1900's.
  6. so in response to JLPSERVICESINC, I think mine may be a gen1 based on your description. See the attached images. First, it seems like there is a weld seam about 3/4” under the face, which would explain a hardened steel face on a wrought iron base. See the pics of me pointing that out. Second was I cleaned up the serial number, and it looks more like ‘4506’ now? You be the judge... there is also a 3 stamped on the front under the horn.
  7. Haha... I may have put a 1 between the 5 and 0 that isn’t really there?... hard to tell, but if the number is 15067 then it puts it in the 1894 range if I’m not mistaken? Not that it matters, but it’s really interesting to me
  8. I believe that’s what I am seeing? Any objections to that number?
  9. Thanks guys, I am really excited... the lettering is very faint, but from what I can make out I THINK the serial number may be 151067? Which would put it in the early 1900’s I believe? Any input on the serial number or when it could be from would be appreciated !
  10. roger that, thank you gentlemen! im sure a lot of you are pulling your hair out with these questions... but id rather ask the stupid questions than do something stupid without asking haha
  11. I ended up getting the Hay Budden, thanks for all the help! Now as far as the surface face, is that something worth touching up with a grinder to remove that surface pitting? the lettering is worn on the side, but enough to see the hay budden and Brooklyn New York. there is also a 12 or 120 which I assume is the weight even though the actual was around 110. there was also a faint number on the front edge that i believe reads 1509? any idea what that means?
  12. the main purpose of this anvil will just be learning techniques and eventually knife making
  13. Location is SW Indiana. I have been searching for a bit now, and it seems like most anvils are sold before I can even have a chance at them. I will go back and thoroughly look again and do a rebound test before making any decisions. Since I am new to this, my goal was to stay under $400, so its vulcan and post vise, or hay budden with no post vise.
  14. Hey guys, new to the forum and wanted some help on choosing an anvil. I have a guy locally that has 4 anvils for sale. they are as follows: Vulcan 100# (95lb actual) very good condition Hay Budden 100# (105lb actual) very good condition Peter Wright (not sure actual weight, guessing around 100-150) fair condition - significant chipping on one side filled in with rough welds ACME (not sure actual weight, guessing around 100-150) fair condition he is also giving me a deal on a post vise for $100 he wants $300 for the Vulcan and $400 for each of the rest. I have pics attached of the vulcan and budden.. what are your thoughts on which one to get? This will be my first anvil, as I am just starting out.. thanks for the help!!
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