747mick

Thank you.

Thank you.  It was the best I could find.

2600° in the length that I wanted for future projects. Also was planning on 2 layers of 1". When the inner layer degrades, I will change it out.

Logistically the outer layer will last longer.

Here's a question.... Should I rigidize the outer and inner layer too?

I humbly await your tutelage. 

If I didn't say it before, I'll say it now.  I  appreciate all the help.

Thank you Irondragon.  

I have the vent closed down to have a flame to create lower heat rather than a jet.  The paint requires 200°, 400°, 600°, etc. to cure it with cool down time in between.

Thank you for the insight on the lead. I did not think of the vapor issues.

After further research about DE... a majority of the DE has lead... so it is good for killing bugs.                              Not for cleaning out humans or in a forge.  emojis are not allowed.  So

Attachment is what I could find...

I will post a new burner video once I figure out the best rigidizer to use with y'alls help.   Probably should give a warning about DE as an alternative. 

Thank you all in advance for all of your assistance. 

Michael 

Hello fellow smiths.

I am relatively new to forging and have built my own.  I was not sure if I really need a rigidizer for the ceramic insulation.  I saw a blurb about diatomaceous earth.  I have about 10 pounds of food grade as a supplement but then I found out that the supply I was sent could possibly contain high levels of lead. So I'm no longer taking, obviously. 

***So on to the question.   How do I make a rigidizer out of DE, please.

Currently bake curing the high temperature paint and preparing for the insulation.