747mick

Thank you.

Thank you. It was the best I could find. 2600° in the length that I wanted for future projects. Also was planning on 2 layers of 1". When the inner layer degrades, I will change it out. Logistically the outer layer will last longer. Here's a question.... Should I rigidize the outer and inner layer too? I humbly await your tutelage. If I didn't say it before, I'll say it now. I appreciate all the help.

Thank you Irondragon. I have the vent closed down to have a flame to create lower heat rather than a jet. The paint requires 200°, 400°, 600°, etc. to cure it with cool down time in between. Thank you for the insight on the lead. I did not think of the vapor issues. After further research about DE... a majority of the DE has lead... so it is good for killing bugs. Not for cleaning out humans or in a forge. emojis are not allowed. So Attachment is what I could find... I will post a new burner video once I figure out the best rigidizer to use with y'alls help. Probably should give a warning about DE as an alternative. Thank you all in advance for all of your assistance. Michael

Hello fellow smiths. I am relatively new to forging and have built my own. I was not sure if I really need a rigidizer for the ceramic insulation. I saw a blurb about diatomaceous earth. I have about 10 pounds of food grade as a supplement but then I found out that the supply I was sent could possibly contain high levels of lead. So I'm no longer taking, obviously. ***So on to the question. How do I make a rigidizer out of DE, please. 20200125_095034.mp4 Currently bake curing the high temperature paint and preparing for the insulation.