Rick C

For that very reason the railroads spend a lot of money on Ultra sounding rail for internal defects and derailment prevention. They test the rail on gross tonnage over the rail.

A coworker of mine's father retired from the railroad a long time ago. (He's 94) He said they would just score the top of the rail and drop it across another rail section and it would break off. Not sure how they scored it, though.

I work track maintenance for a railroad and the old heads say take a cold chisel and score a cut line across the top and sides of the rail. Set it up on a cross tie hang the end over and hit the end down with a sledge. I bet the workers could do this very quickly. The old heads said it was a clean cut also. Have to remember the rail was a lot smaller back then only in the last 35 years they have using big rail. I'm talking small rail as being 90# and 100# now the big rail is 133# 136# 141#
Remember back then the rail was jointed every 39' to 40' so if a rail broke the would change to the hole rail no cutting needed. Where they may need to cut rail would have been in a switch. It is cool how back in the good old days they had thing down to a science. The trains run just as fast then as they do today. But on time.
When scraping rail today all you have to do is cut through the ball and down into the web a inch or so and pick it up with a crane and it snaps straight down from the torch cut.
Hope I made this so it is understood.
Rick C

Thanks for all of the great comments.

As in the photo of it laid out on the wall let me see all of my measurements, so I had a live blue print to go off of. I have learned through time take good measurements and lay it out first. That takes some time but it paid off.

Helps that I was working behind a great carpenter. What made the project, all the pieces fit the first time and no adjustment. Not bragging it fit like a glove.

Rick C.

Speaking of battle wagons I have a photo of the USS Iowa. I was on the FF1085 at the time of the photo and the Iowa on the horizon. This was off of the coast of Libya

Some more Photos

This is the first time that I posted a project on here. I like to lurk and see what everyone else has done and learn from all of you. So here it is.
First photos are of the project before. Then some of the building process then finished product.

This is my vice set up. I like it becuse I can work 360 around it. I made it from a freight car axle and 2 inch plate 3 foot dia.

Did not want to post

I manifold 3 100# tanks. Propane is cheaper when paid for in bulk. 20# are way too costly 1 100# is $55 1 20# $16 Do the math. When forging the tank pressure stays up between 60 and a 100psi the forge runs a lot smother also.

Will this help you
Mini Forge
http://www.zoellerforge.com/coffee.html
Look at the hole location

Give up on this guy He should not play with fire! He don't get it I'm sorry!
I should not be this way but after four pages on this post he don't get it even with photos and proven forges that work. He is thick.

Dothacker
Look at this link Gas Forges are all over the web
Zoeller Forge Home Page Gas Forge parts, Atmospheric Burners, and Blacksmithing

Oak Hill Forge Cus it was just scrap that was in the corner of my shop. All fun aside it works great!

I like mine on a stand so I can work 360 around my vice. If it is in my way I pick it up and move it. Base is 2 inch x 36 inch plate Post is a freight car axle. All free material

New to this Forum Here is my Sheldon 10" x 36" built in late 1943 also built for the US Navy