NateS

DanR- it seemed to have a swirl effect in the forge.... im just happy it worked at this point. My jets are a tapped a little off. I haven't calculated the cubic inches, I will do this weekend. I am glad I put on an idle circuit. I will order the light firebrick and put in a proper shelf. 

Mikey- I was surprised how quick it heated up, my expectations we exceeded. It was nice to put a hammer to some steel. It has been years. 

I appreciate your guys' input. Ill put the metrikote on this weekend and hopefully make a few hooks or firepit tools. 

Fired the forge for the first time. Definately need to look at burner tuning. 

Irondragon. Thank you!

Idle circuit. Hopefully fire burners tomorrow and finalize cure of kast o lite. I need to add a bracket to hold the burner controls. Is it ok to weld the shell of the forge with the kaowool? Or will I mess it up? 

DanR no worries!

Mikey98118, I made a crude tapered form on a wood lathe. Glued it to a piece of pipe and covered in duct tape. Not sure yet of it was effective enough. 

Thanks DanR, 

The tubes are just forms for a small taper, i will recess the burners. 

A little bit of pull away from kast o lite/ kaowool. A few touch ups after this firms up. Hopefully I can fire this on sunday. 

I believe this will help. Can cover with one brick for adjustment.

It does seem large. I have the cut offs i can weld back in. I followed Wayne Coes plan. The opening i have both firebrick and some of the insulation board that i thought about putting kast o lite face. Decisions. 

OPStarted a 20 lb propane forge based on Wayne Coe's design with 2 3/4 inch Frosty T burners. Please let me know thoughts on burner location etc. Before I put in the ceramic wool and kast o lite. I plan on putting a shelf on front and back to hold fire bricks. Thanks!

Shelf

I made a better stand, however I over did it. I had some 4×12 ash cants from my property drying for several years. Now to figure out how to take about for inches off the sides. 

It may be an arm and hammer. Their is a distinctive 1.8 where some of the weights were located under the logo. I am wanting to get the parts to make a burner/forge. Do you still all recommend Fosty's T burner for a noob? I plan on making an oval-ish small forge, perlite/waterglass/aluminum oxide refractory.... unless you all recommend the ceramic fiber. 

Hey Im happy I got a deal for once. Guy even gave me a couple hardie tool, hammer and tongs. Now I just need to get me a forge built. The rosebud needs to retire. 

Amish gentleman wants 900 dollars. I figured it was worth it. The one i got is about 175# for 1/3 the price. It would still look cool in my shop. If only I knew what i was doing!

Dogblazer thank you. 

Chris- I appreciate it. I have not checked rebound with a ball bearing as i do not have one. I did a quick test with a small hammer and it seemed to do well but was concerned hitting the face cold may damage it. It rings loud, slighlty less behind the hardy/hardie. I feel the deal was fair/ in favor of myself. I was minutes away from picking up a 300 pound trenton before the gentleman contacted me. 

I purchased an anvil last night from a local knife maker. I thought it was a no name anvil. I was getting some of the crud off and found some numbers. On the left front foot a Z is found. On the front right foot the numbers A 110.80 are found. 173#. I looked on the bottom of the forging and it appears to have an  Hourglass recess. Could this be a Hay Budden? Also I want to clean/ degrease and remove the paint. Do you suggest i round the chips on the shoulders or just leave it be. Any info is appreciated. Thanks. Nate