Cross Pein

You need to take your time.  Since you don't have a lot of cash, if you rush it you will likely be throwing what you do have away.

Read these forums and figure out what you want.  I personally think on-line is the worst place to get an anvil.

I got my last one from the classifieds in the local weekly paper.  168# Peter Wright for $200.

He was only asking $150, but I had to give him more - I gotta sleep at night.  I still feel like I stole it!

Lots of anvils in barns just waiting for the yard sale. Many older folks just want to clear stuff out.

You do need to know what to look for - reading these forums can teach you that.

I can't give you any advice on fixing the cracks, I'm not a welder.  There are plenty of those here and they will help with that.

But I find myself in the opposite predicament.  I have a rivit forge and want a firebox so I can get a deeper fire.

I use fire brick now to get deeper coals.  I do strongly suggest that you line it with clay.

I need a deeper fire to cut down on the oxidation.

Bill

Try this Dave:

http://www.trick-tools.com/Bench_Grinder_Attachments_28

About the photos, that seems to be happening more and more these days - I guess it is unavoidable with smartphones flipping them the way the do.

I just learned a net trick - only know that it works with Win7 - it may work with other OS's - not sure.

Anyways Control & Alt & the arrow keys will flip the whole screen.

Helps with the sideways, upside down photo viewing.

Oh and nice anvil, how big is it?

Bill

Torbo,

That looks very specialized, what do you use it for?

Bill

Thanks  Biggreypig - I did not know those were available.

I think I can work with that.

Bill

I recommend not lining rivet forges, just allow ash to accumulate in the bottom around the grate. If you need a deep fire, recommended, place two fire bricks on each side of the grate and you will have a close equivalanet to a fire pot. I have one that has been in use for over 10 years and only replace the grate every 2-3 years.

Herb,

Where do you get the grate?  I have a rivet forge that looks identical to the one posted in this thread, but the grate is shot.

Rotted out between the top flange and the cast pan.

If I had a lathe - I would be golden.

BTW. I lined mine with ground up clay from a bag of Speedi-dri.  And yes, use fire brick to make the height for the coal or else you will burn a lot of coal.

Bill

Bill

I think it is cool that you want to help your nephew.   I think you should avoid a new anvil.

Read the forums here as much as you can, you will find many threads on Junkyard and RR rail anvils.

You will also find many, many threads where someone new wants to know about making advanced things like swords.

You should read these so you have realistic expectations.

Not knowing your nephew, it is hard to give good advice.  I can tell you, as an older newbie, I have two anvils.

They are both Peter Wright anvils.  One is about 100# and one is 167#.  I paid $200. for each.

The smaller of the two came from Ohio (ebay) and the shipping to MA was $75.

The heavier one came from about 1/2 mile from my house and was found in the local classifieds in the paper.

The Peter Wrights are excellent, but loud.  Also recommended: Hey Budden, Trenton, Fisher.

From what I understand (never used one) the Fisher is an excellent and quiet anvil.

Read threads on these used anvils and learn what to look out for and you will be much better equipped to get him something worth having.

If you get a good one, you can always recoup your investment later if his interest fades.

What are you planning for a forge?

Hope this helps, no one else can do your legwork, but we can help steer you in the right direction - just need more details.

The Saugus River Ironworks in the NW USA had one of the early rolling mills at it! compared to the old "batter mills"

Thomas,

I am not sure this is quite right.  It may be, but last year I visited the Saugus Iron Works - here in Massachusetts. 

http://www.nps.gov/sair/index.htm

It is a National Historic Site and well worth the visit if you find yourself in the Boston area. - But this one is not in the NW.

Bill

New England Blacksmiths has what looks like a good deal to me.

I am assuming you are looking for a firepot  - not an entire forge.

http://www.newenglandblacksmiths.org/membership.htm

Closer to you!

Bill

Edit for clarification - it is the membership page - the fire pot is close to the bottom.

Being in a hurry, my advice probably won't apply much to you, but I got my last anvil from the classified ads in the weekly newspaper.

The ad read "large anvil in good condition".  I called and asked about it - Its pointy on one end and has a hole in it.

He did not know what he had.  I picked up a 165# Peter Wright in good shape (1 chip on edge) for $200.

That is cheap here in Massachusetts - and no shipping - this anvil was 2 miles from my house.

Old people have old stuff and are not always internet savvy.  As far as I know I was the only one to respond.

My advice is to get something to get you by, then wait for a good deal.

Good luck,

Bill

How about this

http://www.popularmechanics.com/home/improvement/interior/1275121

If the link doesn't work, Google Heat Recovery Ventilator.

Bill

That must be the one I need.  Is the control on the other side?

I've been looking for the hammer control for years. :)

In the USA,  I don't think it is illegal. 

I see machines that squish pennies and press something on them at almost every tourist trap I visit.

My wife collects them.  (The pennies, not the machines.)

Bill

if the metal is heated, its reduces the effectivness until it gets near AC3 and then It will stop working as a magnet, since the aligmemnt of the grains will change upon conversion.

So I can't help but wonder, if you were to heat the finished piece to 'near AC3' and let it cool inside a strong magnetic field, would it retain the grain alignment and become a magnet?  If so, you wouldn't even need to start with a magnet.

As for the forge, I have the budget to set up this shop right now.  I probably won't in the future. 

 

A wood floor also increases the fire risk.  I have a 20x25 foot barn with a wood floor.   I forge outside.

You probably won't have the budget to rebuild and replace everything later either.

Larry,

Your explanation helped a lot.  I will need to do something similar in the future.

Thanks,

Bill

I like those a lot.

Those look perfect for the lobby of an office building.

I can picture the second one pointing towards a skylight with the flower being visible from upper floors.

Bill

Any chance of getting a picture of your 'ladder' set-up?

Thanks,

Bill

When I mounted my Peter Wright solidly it really cut down the ring. 

I would imagine that this setup on a rubber mat would be even better.

Bill

I don't know size wise, but this one is at the Saugus Iron Works near Boston.

Definitely the biggest one I've seen.

http://www.nps.gov/sair/index.htm

Archiphile and I went there last summer - neat place.

Bill

Andy,  I enjoyed your video - except that hot cut in the hardy hole scared me.

Interesting anvil.

Bill

You could always make some wine for them to hold, or beer, or mead.

How do you tighten that vice? Design flaw?

 

Cross Pein, I live near Worcester, UK, pronounced locally; "Wustaah".

"Wustaah" sounds about right to me.

Dr. Nick, congratulations on you PhD!

 

So, is the handle like a captive ring spanner that you disengage/engage to tighten? Or a ratchet of some kind? What I'm trying to ask is how the handle goes round, as it the bench would get in the way of a full circle.

I don't think it is captive.  Just a big 6 point box wrench.  And the bench would absolutely get in the way.

Thanks Nick, that's very interesting. Indeed, I could have looked at that illustration a dozen times and never noticed the way his vice works.

Sorry I didn't get a better picture of the back end - but it was facing the wall - and I had to stay behind the rope.

Wow.  It is terrible that a museum like that is closing.  What is to become of its collections?  I did not know that this museum even existed.  I have been through that area dozens of times in the last 10 years.  I would have made it a point to visit.

 

That vise with the face is a work of art.  Absolutely amazing.

 

And that anvil and the others in the collection are wonderful too.

It is less than an hour for me and I never heard of it until they announced the closing.

The museum is open until December 31, 2013. 

The collection will be moved to the Worcester Art Museum after that.  If you are into armor - particularly European - it is definitely worth visiting. 

Bill