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glilley

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Everything posted by glilley

  1. Thanks Thomas. My smithy is adequately lit but not overly so and the corner where my forge is has no window and no light overhead, so it is darker in that corner.
  2. Quick question - have a 3"x8"x1/4" piece of leaf spring (5160) I want to hot cut length-wise to make couple punches and a drift. What is the hottest color I should heat it to before starting my cuts (I know this will take several heats). Thanks!
  3. Thomas - You're right and here's the link: http://www.iforgeiron.com/forum/f14/5160-heat-treat-question-6848/ Thanks!
  4. Bill - Yes, I would think 5160 because I know the springs are around 30 yrs old or older.
  5. Thank you all for taking the time to respond! I've bought just enough to now get started making my own. Frosty: I hear what you're saying about being careful when/how to quench steel with a higher carbon ratio. Is not there an article on this site that talks to this? I swear I've seen mention of it but I could have been dreaming it...
  6. I recently picked up a goodly amount of leaf springs of various lengths (7" - 3.25'), all approx 3/8" in width and at least 30 years old. What kind of smithing tools would be good to make from some of this material?
  7. Thanks Reid! For all, here is a link I found other day that shows in detail how to wrap round stock around a tool to make a rod handle. This, of course, confirms everthing all have told me here: Workshop Report on the integration of population education into programmes for rural youth in Zimbabwe
  8. Wow! Thanks to all for all the great replys - this thread is like an on-line twist and wrap lesson for free! Great links to the examples. I had been several times to the tong website and have been scrutinizing those finished goods real close. The profile and fore and aft pictures of his products show exactly what's going on. Like you said, great prices - must do it for the love of the craft! God bless 'em!
  9. Have a 4" wide cold chisel with a hex-shaped body 6" long and 1/2" in diameter. Have noticed forging tools where round stock is wrapped around body of tool (in lieu of being inset into a wooden handle). Can anyone describe how to fabricate such a handle? I believe I can do it easily enough but it looks like the secret to success is not the wrapping but what you do when done so the tool doesn't slide or fly out!
  10. Excellent - thanks for taking time to respond! I was debating on the 125lb Cliff Carroll (which is also ductile iron) but for the same price I'd pay in S/H on top I can drive up to Ashville and get the TFS. Its a little lighter but it isn't as narrow waisted as the CC and should hold up to some occassional heavy hammering just as well.

  11. Quench - you bought and review a TFS 100# anvil some time back. How satisfied with that anvil have you been? Looking at purchasing one myself. Thanks!

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