remidw

Thanks Frosty. I hope to find a valve like you said earlier that I can adapt to a regular reservoir, otherwise this method sounds like a good idea. I will post an update soon.

1 hour ago, Frosty said:

Check ball fittings aren't uncommon it shouldn't be too hard to find one that works under an oil cup. It should just be a matter of matching the hammer's threads

These things weren't built to "need" special fittings and tools smiths and shop maintenance were supposed to be able to repair them as little trouble as possible.

If you can't find anything that'll work a spring loaded check ball valve like that would be really easy to make. Give a shout if you can't find what you need.

Frosty The Lucky.

Thank you Frosty, I will see what I can find. Making an adaptor wouldn't be too difficult, if I use a bolt thats the same size and tap trough it, it should be fine. Strange thing about these oilers is that they use metric threading and not gas threads so I will probably have to make an adaptor either way. 

2 hours ago, jason0012 said:

They look simple enough. You could likely get new ones made at a machine shop. No idea what that would cost. I would turn them out myself, but I am stubborn like that.. 

Yes I could definitely give it a shot on the lathe. I think the only hard part would be is getting the seat of the ball right so it doesn't leak oil.

8 minutes ago, Irondragon ForgeClay Works said:

I believe they are called a constant level oiler a quick google search brought up a few sites that carry them, kinda expensive though.

Aren't those to keep a constant level of oil, like in an engine sump? 

43 minutes ago, anvil said:

nice to have the tools to make your repairs!

Indeed, its always nice to have the right tools for the job.

Hey everyone,

I recently acquired a really old Demoor P3 (75kg) power hammer, serial number 12. Its in very good condition. Only problem is that its missing the 2 oilers on top of both cylinders. I have one where the thread is broken off for refrence. I just can't seem to find anything like these. The mechanism works as follows: when the ram of the cylinder goes up the ball lifts of its seat because of the air pressure and a small amount of oil flows through. This can be adjusted by turning a screw that allows the ball bearing to jump up higher or lower. Picture of the mechanism down below.

Anyone know where I might be able to find these? A last resort would also be making new ones on my lathe. 

Thanks in advance,

I finished the forge a couple weeks ago. I used 2 inches of Durablanket Z and 1/2 Inch of Dense refractory. The outerwalls are 8mm thick. So far this has hold up pretty good, it takes a little while to heat up the dense refractory layer. Once heated it is pretty hot and I can easily let the burner run at the lowest possible pressure for regular forging. I will probably coat the forge with a layer of satanite.

Thanks for the reply! I called up Morgan Ceramics a couple weeks ago and they sent me to a local supplier that makes custom refractory's. They sold me a bag of Arelcrete LC17T and some Durablanket Z. The Arelcrete is a refractory from the UK. It is a bit denser than Kast-O-Lite but its good enough since I only used it for a small liner layer. I uploaded a data sheet for it.

LC17T.pdf

Ok, thanks for help. I'll go looking!

A lot of the suppliers don't ship to Belgium. The ones that do are between a 100 to 200 dollars shipping cost.

So I found this refractory cement. Would this be good as a forge liner? 

Nevermind, its only rated to 1300 degrees celsius.

I've been looking for Kast-O-Lite 30 on the internet. So far i haven't found a supplier that is not located in the US. Is there an equivalent to Kast-O-Lite 30 that can been found in Europe?

If I use wool all around would that also be good, instead of using bricks in the bottom? What temperature would the ceramic wool have to be rated at? I have found some that is 2600 degree rated or would 2400 also be good since this is a bit cheaper? Also thanks allot for the help and info you've given me. 

Okay, thanks a lot for the help! I'm pretty sure that i want to redo the forge, i'd like to make it like the illustration that i posted. Having two inches of Kaowool and around 1 inch of Kast-O-Lite.

Would you think that this is a good design for the forge?

If I were to cover my Kaowool with Kast-O-Lite, would I have to ridgidize the Kaowool then?

If I were to redesign the forge i would make it like this. The forge is inspired by Alec Steele's double burner forge except it is just one burner. The inner dimensions of the forge would be 20cm by 20cm by 11cm. Making it 4400 cubic centimeters or 268 cubic inches. The outer walls of the forge would be 5mm thick, it would have a layer of kaowool in the top and bottom of the forge covered with Kast-O-Lite. The sides would be made of only Kast-O-Lite. This Forge can be fitted to the cart that i already have made. I made a quick sketchup drawing to show the idea. Any opinions/improvements i could make to this? Thanks

I got the Firebrick from a site called Kachelmaterialenshop which is located in the Netherlands.  I have found a possible supplier for the Kast-O-Lite 30. The only thing that I still have to look for is the Kaowool, but i can probably find this pretty easy. 

Thank you, i'm pretty sure that i will use Kaowool blanket and Kast-O-Lite. I'm not sure if i will use the same forge body since its build around my firebricks. And could use some improvement: the walls of the forge should probably be thicker since they are only 3mm thick. The first time the forge got hot the walls around the opening melted and bent thats why I had to cut the opening bigger.

Ok, do you think that it would be possible to put a kaowool fiber blanket in this forge and then line it with Kast-O-Lite? 

Would Kast-O-Lite 30 be as good as using firebricks? I would rather use something castable .

5 hours ago, Buzzkill said:

 

Thanks for the reply! I will look in to those Morgan Thermal bricks. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx  I understand you're concern on the long piece of pipe. But this would seem strange to me as Gameco sells them like that.  I could of course always make something to hold up the hose, so that there isn't any force on the burner.

Hey everyone,

I recently made a gas forge using k26 firebricks and a 1 inch Gameco burner. The forge worked well but there are some problems that i have to address. The first problem is that the firebricks are not strong enough and some of them have broken. I was thinking of replacing these with Kast-O-Lite 30, i have been reading a bit in Forges 101 and i'm not sure if only that will be good enough.  The second problem is that the burner flare gets too hot and should be moved up in the refractory, this can be fixed easily. If needed I will rebuild the forge. Any ideas to fix this?

Greetings

Remi