Vykk

Portability is a metric for success. However when i shutdown i remove all combustables from the forge for seperate storage. My only concern would be while in operation if the top brick cracks through or if a lot of heat should make its way through. i do touch the mixing pipe bare handed every 5 to 10 minutes now to check pipe heat. so i guess the main safety question with cracking bricks should i do more to insulate above while operating?

the reason for the groove was that the original model i made before the burner came along had just a small hole with a bernzomatic torch poking in it. as soon as all the air in the forge got sucked into the flame it just puffed out. i was creating a vent at that time to deliver air to the torch. it was fine to make a few 3" construction nails into letter openers but nothing bigger. i widened the hole for the burner but didnt replace the brick. the sheet metal is squeezing the bricks in pretty tight and i have screws holding the metal to the sides and top bricks so they cant wiggle around. You are right the brick on top will need to be changed eventually because there is a crack forming. Luckly it's not crumbling or gapping right now and the top still isn't getting too hot durring operation i check frequently as im still testing and haven't yet forged out of it. After shutdown the heat starts building fast so as soon as i turn off the burner it comes out and is removed so its nothing but brick weeping heat at that point. How big of a safety risk is likely present from this? In my next build of the forge space I intend to make a fix for this problem or use kaowool for the sides and top and use heavier plate welded together for the outter shell instead of just sheet metal. Which would be the more efficient way to handle this problem? Mikey i do have a hose that goes from the forge to the camp bottle so the bottle is not attached to the top. I've also got the one to hook a 5gal to that connection. I have a problem of no pressure when i try to run that way the 1lb bottle has enough pressure without a regulator but the 5gal does not. i haven't found a connection that would allow a pressure regulator between the 5gal and 1lb bottle connection. Is such a connector even out there?

Thanks for all the help guys. its working far better already and im sure that after i can find better parts and work the peices out all will fall into place and this little guy will roast like a tiny dragon. I'm not 100% on the type of brick but the hey are much lighter than they look, easy to cut and they guy at the fireplace shop did say they are 2700 degree ceramic firebrick he didn't say k-26. They do also retain heat for probably an hour or more after i shut off.and longest run time so far has been about 20 min. i am considering rounding the brick joinings inside the forge with castable refactory then wraping the entire unit in kaowool then another metal case around that to hold more heat in. would that be a total waste of time or worth the effort? I'm making this little unit more for portability for demonstrations than anything else but i think I'm finding love the on/off firepower vs my usual method of coal and forced air so probably will upscale a bigger unit for maybe sword length in the future. Frosty, thanks for the reply, and i hope all is well for you there with the rocking and a rolling in the area. My sister still lives in Anchorage and i heard of all the quakes. scary stuff stay safe! edit: By the way My general location is Portland, Or.

Called the guy at the fireplace store and he said they are ceramic fireplace brick rated to 2700 degrees and thats why they're half red half white. k-26? they were easy to hand saw to fit together. haven't tried to light and heat fully yet. forge was on less than 5 minutes before recording and this was about 3/4 pressure on small bottle. will try more later when im back at home.

I just finished my first test after pulling back half way into the brick as you suggested and moving down to a smaller mig tip. this one is a .025. 20181130_142622.mp4

Thanks Mikey. Not a jeweler. I'm a 24hr cargiver for my 100% disabled veteran father but also hobby knifemaker/artist. I did have a hard time finding the right T for the burner. The openings were all 3 at 1/2" but i did bore out the 2 cross with a grinder till smooth to no thread and to 3/4" also added 3 downard drilled vents to add a bit more air to try to stop the sputtering i thought it wasnt getting enough air. which direction did it look like i needed to move the tip? lastly the mixing pipe is 1/2" × 4" long. Here are a few other pictures. of the burner. the opening orifice drilled into the top of the top brick was made with a 7/8" drill and then finished with a large round file. i welded a post to the top of the sheet metal and have a very solid mounting that is 1 screw to pull off the burner to let forge cool down while the bricks weep heat after the forge is off. i noticed after shut down it got 10 times hotter than in operation. My next round of testing i'm going from a .035 mig tip to a .025 tip and pulling back burner up to be about 1/3to 1/2 way in rather than all the way down and I'll let you guys know if it helps. Haven't got to a 20lb tank yet either so I'm still firing out of the 1lb camp bottles and no regulator. I'm fairly certain that would go a long way towards being able to solve the problem.

Latticono Thanks for the suggestions. I've kind of got it Frankensteined together out of parts i had on hand and what I could grab on the cheap from home depot. The bricks are insulated fire brick from a local fireplace store. they do keep the forge from getting super hot until i turn off the burner. The mig tip is .035 my bad i typoed and didnt catch in the edit. i do also have a .025 i'll try. Easy enough to pull the pipe back in a bit. how far would you suggest? flush with forge top or half way into the brick? I'm looking to rebuild the topside to remove the connecting needle valve and replace it with a ball valve then run a pipe to connect to a pressure regulator so i can remove the mag-torch. Any advice on parts would be greatly appreciated. I'm still new working with gas and would prefer to not blow myself nor anything else up lol. Thanks again!

forgot to add the face on views.

Hi everyone I'm a newbie in gas burners and forges and I'm looking for advice. The forge is just a brick stack 3.5"x3.5"x9" held together with sheet metal but seems to retain heat well enough. The burner is a modified 1/2" T burner built onto the end of a mag-torch. using a .35 mig tip. it runs off a 1lb propane camp tank currently so one thing i would like to fix is I was told that because of the torch valve i can't hook it to a regulator so has very low pressure when trying to run on the 5gal tank. the other issue im seeing is an unsteady blue flame that sputters a lot when tuning. my idea was to make a small portable forge i could take with me for smithing for a friends youth group as a demonstration. any tips or suggestions would be appreciated.