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I Forge Iron


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  1. It wont flex or twist. If the ends of the tubes were left open, eventually I would deform the top of the bottom center piece, but that is fully welded at each end to the side wall of another 3/16 tube about 1/2 from where those two posts are welded, so that's not gonna happen. With the ends fully welded shut, it makes a big difference in strength, specifically torque resistance. If it were to go out of square at all I would see oil seep from a weld since I ground them smooth. I would be shocked. I could give many real world examples where I have put 1/16"-1/8" walled steel in situations w
  2. Here is my sound deadening stand I made yesterday since I live in the city. If I want to work after 9, this is a must. Its 4" x 3" x 3/16" base, with two 3.5" x 3/16" posts. The entire thing is filled with a slurry of sand and oil before I welded it all shut. I capped it with a 3/8" plate and used two 1/4" x 1" angle iron pieces with some thick 1/4 washers welded on and 1/2" grade 8 bolts to sinch it down. The base is somewhere around 125lbs-160lbs. I didnt want to break my scale weighing it. Thats a 150# Trenton on top. This anvil rang like a bell. Now it just goes thud. Now onto my
  3. I will create a build if no one beats me to it once I finish. I have found a few different ones, but when I read things like, 'drill a hole in the propane tank to drain it, then you can light the hole if you want and flames will come out', I start to question if other things are the best way to go more than I should. I know that's pretty safe BTW, and from a guy who knows a lot more on this subject than I do, but if you drill a tiny hole like 1/8" it WILL explode like a bomb if you light it. 1/2" hole will just give you a poof. But the best way is to just unscrew the regulator. Ive been p
  4. I read both, and many other threads from this site and others. I even copy and pasted pertinent info into a word doc to reference. This is a case of, LESS IS MORE. Too much info. Its like if my son asked me what a largemouth VS smallmouth bass look like, so I make him read a book on all species of freshwater fish. There are many solid points made about burners and forges in there when it comes to info people are looking for. The problem is referencing it, indexing it, finding it again. Its like you can go through and read the evolution's of the burners and forge conversations, and
  5. These options are what raised these questions BTW. I was buying things. Looking for the brands I see repeatedly mentioned pulled up a lot of comparable items. Some included with the blankets, some not. Not really the best descriptions when it comes to the details required to make a proper comparison. I take the ratings with a grain of salt. In my experience the manufacturers make sure they get good ratings, some times on sub par products I realized had BS ratings only after I use them. This is the point where my $50-$100 plan is morphing into a $200-$300 plan. No biggie, I just don
  6. Expense is 2 things. One, I asked if it was recommended when casting since that should essentially encapsulate. Two, I dont want to buy a gallon of a product if I need a Quart, just to leave 3 quarts on my shelf. Going on bundles I see being sold of rigidizer and blankets together, I am guesstimating I will need about 2 quarts. If that could be confirmed that would be great. I appreciate you including the active ingredient in rigidizer. I see a lot of brands, and was not sure if there was something about certain brands thats better than others.
  7. Awesome. Thats is what I needed to know. I dont want to worry about fibers getting into the air, but also felt like I may be wasting money if I rigidized then cast over it. So I will do both. Do you think 10lbs of KastoLite will be enough? Also, if I take my T-Burner and switch it to a NARB in 3-6 months, when I change the hole and cut back the cast mix and ceramic blanket, is that going to be a nightmare? Am I going to regret big time not going with the NARB from the start, or will enlarging the hole and cutting the shape for NARB not make a huge health hazard style mess? I have a
  8. Yeah, I read that. According to him it takes 15lbs, IF you split it in two, which I do not plan on doing. I would assume that requires more casting to make the seam, and less ceramic insulation. He uses KastOLite, but does not mention rigidizer, or a lack of it. He does finish it with IR coating. Some quantities are mentioned in his write up, some are not. So has anyone who put one of these together remember all of their quantities?
  9. So I have read through more threads than I can remember here. I emptied and prepped a propane tank yesterday to use for a forge. I removed the regulator, have it all cleaned out, and am ordering insulation parts. Here are my questions I am sure has been answered before. I have a 1" thick Ceramic Blanket rated to 2600F sitting in my shopping cart, plan on doing two layers, but dont want to buy more than I need for other supplies. I plan on casting over the ceramic blanket. I know rigidizer is recommended for the blanket, but should I rigidize the blanket before putting Kast-O-Lite o
  10. Yup, I read a lot of that thread. Its been so much info on here.What I really would like are the formulas for calculating everything volume to burner/btu ratio. I have thought about casting a forge too. I have a lot of fireclay, lime, portland cement. If anyone has a good recipe that would be good too. I dont think the ones I know will hold up to a forge. I could cast it with a bung of some type to stick the burner in. I am not sure how much volume to how many BTUs. I want it to get as hot as possible, while being as efficient as is reasonable to have a good burning forge. I already have a lar
  11. I know a lot of threads here are people asking questions already answered, so I will try and keep this simple. I have a bunch of brand new firebricks I used to rebuild my fireplace last year. I have half and full bricks, about 15 of each. I have multiple propane tanks that are full, and lots of thick metal on hand. The bricks I was told are high enough quality to build a kiln. I also have Heat Stop 50 refractory mortar. The brick yard I bought them from said they are high enough quality for any application where they will be exposed directly to very high heat for long periods of time. The
  12. Any recommendation in particular on a steel DIY stand? Ive been welding for years and just bought an anvil. Need to make a stand. I have 4x4 3/16 wall tube, 1/8" plate 3/16 plate, 1/4"x4" angle. Too much to list. Havent figured out what I should use yet. Sounds like you have them figured out.
  13. Thread CPR I have one identical to what you describe. 150# Trenton I just bought. Curious is you could point me towards more information on it. I have no serial, seems gone. All I can see for sure is 150 and the worn out Trenton mark. I think its a Z150, but not 100% on the Z.
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