Ulfhedinn

51 minutes ago, Frosty said:

I'm not dissing Rex's burners, they're better than most where it matters. Don't get your hopes up though, if you're running two burners it's going to burn a lot of propane. PERIOD.

I actually spoke wrong.  I should have said T-Style.  Im following your PDF this time.  My first go around I did not have the confidence to try it, now I do.

52 minutes ago, Frosty said:

 Your latest post just came in. Sure, clamped brick forges work quite well if you use the right kind of fire brick for your purpose. My price for Morgan thermal ceramics, K 26 Insulating Fire Brick (IFB) is around $6. ea and you'll need about 12, not counting porch, to make a 300 cu/in forge. Figure more than 24, not counting porch, for a 2 burner forge. You'll need the steel to build the frame of course and I highly recommend you make one of these bolt together so you can replace bricks as they die without a whole bunch of hassle.

 

So the more I think about this the more I like it.  I can easily get angle iron, and I'll purchase bricks, id bolt it as well.  If I understand correctly I can easily convert this from 1 burner to 2 or even three just by adding firebricks and a burner.  My concern is how well will this perform compared to kaowool, satanize, itc-100 liner?   Any cons I'm not thinking about? will it reach forge welding temps given the correct cubic inch? 

Thanks for the response, I know not all tool will solve for everything.  I only have enough for one solution currently and I am not sure when I will have more funds for another, so I am trying to pick the one that will allow me to do the most.  If there are things I can not do with one then I dont do them and I wait.  no biggie.  Thing is, I not think I need a two burner, I feel it was a design error on my part.  Im always having to heat so much metal just for the 4-5 inches I'm working on.  So id like to move to a single burner, but with zero experience with a single burner I want to make sure I am not screwing myself over.  Originally I was just going to make a single burner horizontal round with a style burner.  Was curious if the vertical was better,  I think that's more for small work like knives.  I want to do scrolls and whatnot so I do need some space to fit my work in, thats why I was shying away from the vertical.  The clamp together one has made me rethink my plans.   

Thanks again for your time

I was unable to find a way to edit my post :/

Ive also thought about building two burners and just using angle iron and firebricks to make a modular forge.  How would heat retention and heat loss be? Would I get it up to forge welding temps?  What are the cons of doing this way because the versatility is very attractive.

I know all of my questions have been answered hundreds of times before, its just I find 100 different answers.

Question: 

Which forge and burner is the best all around forge?

I first am stuck between a vertical or a horizontal.  I *THINK* I could do casting with a vertical??? as for traditional horizontal, I think I have decided on a round one though Ive read the shape only matters for heat up, once the work goes in the shape does not matter anymore?  Single burner or two? I think I built my first forge way to long.  I also have a coal forge I built that I use also, this way I do have a backup plan for pieces that don't really fit in the propane forge.

Then the burners, I think I've decided on building 1 or 2 T-REX burners as I hear they are the most fuel efficient.

Any advice is greatly appreciated. 

What I forge:

Im a hobbiest nothing more, I currently am forging fireplace tool sets, tongs, leafs and hooks, things like that.I want to someday forge a sword, but it won't be what I get excited over, I found I'm not as interested in making knives  as I have been in making towel holders, banana holders, and more artistic things.  Im not 100% sure what I want to do as I'm only a year in and still learning.

Current Forge:

My current forge is a two burner setup that is able to forge weld but I designed with several flaws. Now that my skill has evolved, my back burner has been acting up and become unusable.  One of the flaws was I did not make it so it would be maintainable very well, welded instead of having a collar for mounting.  So instead of messing around with it anymore I will build a new one.  This one also uses a lot of fuel, I think, nothing to compare it to.

forge - https://www.iforgeiron.com/topic/60383-first-gas-forge/

burners - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BjqA4VQMpiM

Thanks for reading.

2 minutes ago, ThomasPowers said:

GET A CO METER AND USE IT! Working with a garage door open may or may not work depending on air flow and location in the garage.  Remember you are literally betting your life on this DON'T GUESS!

recommendations? 

43 minutes ago, Ulfhedinn said:

Would this work for flashback protection? 

[link removed]

 

Edit : kinda hard to make sure you have the correct thing without being able to post a link.

AGPTEK Oxygen Acetylene Flashback Arrestors Set Regulator End 9/16 -18 Threads B Size on Ama***.  Will that work? I can only find one for gas welding.

43 minutes ago, Ulfhedinn said:

Heres a picture of the forge, the hose is about 14 inches from the burner. Does this look okay?  Father of 4 here, need to make sure I'm here for them tomorrow so please help guide this total newb, I work at a desk so this world is very new to me.

 

Edit: Also will only be working with the garage door open, so I think I'm okay for ventilation and co gas.

Would this work for flashback protection? 

[link removed]

Heres a picture of the forge, the hose is about 14 inches from the burner. Does this look okay?  Father of 4 here, need to make sure I'm here for them tomorrow so please help guide this total newb, I work at a desk so this world is very new to me.

Edit: Also will only be working with the garage door open, so I think I'm okay for ventilation and co gas.

27 minutes ago, JHCC said:

John, would you suggest firing the forge between layers to fuse the rigidizer? Or to fire both layers together?

The Rigidizer I am using is instuff.

Quote

 

Manufacturer's information directly from the bottle:
 

Handling Instructions
- After air drying, Rigidizer provides a harder and resistant, but less resilient, surface on the material being treated.
- Container should be tightly sealed upon completion of job. 
- Avoid freezing, but if it occurs, Rigidizer should be thawed thoroughly and remixed.
- One gallon will cover an area approximately 50 sq. ft. with one brush coat.

  

Directions for Applying
- Remove dirt, grease, and oil from area to be coated.  For best results, surface should be rough or porous.
- Stir Rigidizer thoroughly before use.
- Allow Rigidizer to air dry at room temperature.  If desired, drying time for thin application may be shortened by using slightly higher temperatures up to 150 degrees F.
- On some surfaces, two coats may be required to obtain desired hardness.  Allow 4 hours between coats unless heat is applied to speed drying.
- Rinse equipment thoroughly in water as soon as possible after application is complete.

 

I don't think I will be firing the forge up until I get to the Satanite layer.  I will wait 24 hours in between layers of instuff.

lol yeah i know, english is hard   the welds on my forge would have been a better phrase

Thanks for the response, ill do as you recommend. 

As hard as it was, I ordered more and waited.  Im now about to put the first layer of wool in today, im going to apply rigidizer to both layers of wool, is this correct?  Do I coat both sides of the wool ( the whole blanket) with rigidizer or just the inside side? 

Im only two week into learning to weld so my forge welds are not air tight, i worry about fibers making it through my welds which is why I wonder if I should coat the outside of the blanket also.  

Thank you for the advice.  I ended up not ordering enough inswool :-/. So would it be just as good if I line the floor with firebrick, the sides and top with the inwool, and coating the firebricks with the Satanite, ITC-100 and bubble alumina? Or should I just order what I need and wait patiently? 

Thank you for your response.  The thread tape I used says "yellow gasoline".  Is that the correct stuff or is there special stuff for propane?  

So I will mount the flange 1in or so into the case, halfway into the liner, do I coat the holes with everything or just a Rigidizer?  Want to make sure there is no way for the fibers to kill me

Also I did use yellow tape on all my threads for the burners.  Frosty said this is dangerous?  Isn't that what its for though? 

Very new to metal working so please guide me if this sounds stupid or I sound like I have no clue what I'm talking about (this is the case, this is all very very foreign to me)

I welded a metal box 9x12x15

Tomorrow when I get all the lining stuff I will begin the following.

two one inch layers of inswool

coat with Instuff Ceramic-Fiber Rigidizer

add a layer of Satanite Refractory Mortar

coat with ITC-100 Refractory Coating

then a layer of bubble alumina for the floor.  

when all is done I plan on 5x8x15 for a chamber of 600 cubic inches.  I made two of these burners https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BjqA4VQMpiM

My main question I am trying to answer is how "deep" do I mount the burners?  The end where the flame comes out should that be mounted flush with the insulation at the chamber or do I mount it flush to the metal frame and the flame pass through a hole drilled in the insulation.  Do I coat the holes in the inswool with all the coatings?