Dunbear

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About Dunbear

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    Western South Dakota

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  1. My bad, carbon monoxide is what I was after. Any tips on keeping the CO produced by the forge to a minimum?
  2. That was an mp4 file perhaps the issue has something to do with how I uploaded it. Here is a still picture. I do not have a gauge on my regulator so I'm not sure what psi that is but I have a wide range where I can still hold a flame so turning it down shouldn't be an issue. My main concern is keeping it from producing too much CO2. Id rather not die a tragic death if it can be avoided.
  3. Thank you for the advice, ill definitely re-work the gas supply. In my head i was thinking the farther away i could get the gas hose the better but i see your point loud and clear. Here is a video of the burner running, not sure how well its tuned as this is my first go, but its much improved over anything i got playing with the thread protector as a flare. 1101181422.mp4
  4. Im located in western South Dakota. Yes the teflon tape is rated for propane. The link youve provided has some good tips, Thank you.
  5. I was thinking the same thing in regards to the leverage on the T. I plan to support it when it gets installed on the final product. When I get back to the shop ill try and take a photo of it burning to help clear things up.
  6. My take on a Frosty T burner. I've been reading everything I can on this forum but its my first time building a forge so please bring me up to speed if I'm off on something. I've built a T burner following Frosty's method, had to make some minor changes on how the mig tip is mounted due to lack of available hardware in my area. The problem I'm running into is when I use a thread protector on the end of my burner as frosty suggests I cant keep the thing burning (not slowing down the gas enough?) but when I put on a bell reducer it works without a hitch. This brings me to my question of what to do with the flare end inside of the actual forge? Will the issues I'm having with the thread protector be negated by having the burner in the actual forge environment/making a bell from the ceramic wool/kast-o-lite or should I increase the size of the hole in my forge wall to accommodate the larger bell reducer that I know will produce a good flame? Any insight into the area where the burners enter the forge would be greatly appreciated. I'm hoping to get a solid plan together before I start putting in my wool/refractory materials. 0.035 mig tip, 6" pipe nipple, 1x3/4 T joint, 3/4"x1 1/4 bell reducer