Jymm Hoffman

I thought I would cut from an early post I made and elaborate a little more, the addition is in the secod paragraph:

I have worked on several different types of floors. I prefer concrete in my shop. 1, it is much easier to clean. 2. when you do drop something and need to pick it up with the tongs, that is the only thing I pick up, not stone, dirt or what ever. No matter what set up you come up with, you will eventually want to change it. Therefore, I have started putting wheels on most everything. Wheels roll easier on a smooth concrete service. Much more flexible. I do like to bolt certain things down to the floor, concrete works better, faster and again more flexible and versatile. Dirt floor requires digging deeper to "plant" something to make it stable. If you do not have a separate finishing "clean room", again concrete can be better. If you sweep it and keep it clean, less dust will mess up your finish, even if it is oil or wax.

The best way I found to fight the fatigue of concrete floors or any other hard surface that I have to stand on for long periods of time is wooden shoes. It is not so much because wood gives more than the concrete, it is because of the arch support wooden shoes and many wooden sole clogs have carved into them. Think about those infomercials selling shoe inserts. I have been wearing wooden shoes in my shop for over 20 years and prefer them over any other shoe or boot. I found it best to buy them a little big, they do not give nor break in, your feet have to give or break in. They are not good walking shoes, I love my SAS walking shoes for just that walking. I have Red Wing work shoes and Red Wing work boots. Both are great products, but I still prefer my wooden shoes or wooden sole clogs for standing. I move as little as possible when working in my shop, at least in relation to walking around. I do shuffle around the shop, and I do not pad the wooden shoes. I got used to them, but do wear a pair of cotton socks underneath a pair of rag wool socks (learned that from hiking in Boy Scouts,) and prefer to wear that combination all year round. My feet are actually more comfortable through the year, especially in the shop with this combination. My feet are never cold standing on the cold concrete, nor overheated in the summer. I have modified my shoes, externally. I put iron (mild steel) "shoes" on the bottoms, not just the heels. If I don't, I wear them out in about 8 months. If I do they last 3 to 4 years, but have to put new irons on the bottoms occasionally. I also cut the leather tops off cheap pair of snow boots to add a top to the wooden shoes to keep the scale from landing on the top of my foot while running the power hammer. They don't look pretty, but neither do I, especially in the shop. I prefer the old black horned rim safety glasses with side goggle type side shields (my option calls them birth control glasses.) I don't care about pretty in the shop, safety first, comfort second and when the 2 can be combined, I am happy. If I am comfortable and safe, I am more productive. If I don't produce, no money......

Added shoe photos. I get them from Smoke & Fire Company: http://www.smoke-fire.com/shoes-boots-1.asp these are made in Holland (Netherlands.) Unfortunately, the Wooden Shoe Factory in Holland, Michigan closed a few years ago. That is where I got my first couple of pairs.

I made the sign brace in 1981, and made a wooden sign similar to this metal one. The sign brace is based off a sign brace my first blacksmith instructor made for the entrance to the Masonic Lodge at Ohio Village, Ohio Historical Society, Columbus,Ohio. A neighbor in the industrial park bought and operates a computer controlled plasma cutting table that made this sign with my initials in it (which are also my mark.) The company is Country Fab, email: country_fab@msn.com The gray on the brick behind the sign is not from painting the sign but over spary when the roof was coated, prior to putting up the sign. The sign was located near the front corner of my shop next to the "allowed sign." I have not been told to take this one down, going onto 2 years. Property managers must think it is not too outstanding and good for advertising 2 businesses in the park.

The Say Mak sold by Ozark School of Blacksmithing (Tom Clark's) is the way to go, they run on single phase and offer control and service that is great!
My last post: http://www.iforgeiron.com/forum/f57/pattison-100lb-8697/
Look under my name and you will find other posts regarding this hammer. There are also some owners in New York that will probably let you try theirs, as I did, before buying. I can do anything on my Say Mak 50 kg. that you can do on a 50 or even 25 pound Little Giant. But you can not do on the 50lb. Lg that I can do on 50 kg. I can forge 1/4" round stock into nail shanks without a problem. I bought the first one to help me forge 1" square into nails for canons. I had custom dies and made the other tooling to do this job, over 2,000 for one order. I demonstrated this for Tom at SOFA'S Quad State Round Up last September, as well as at the 1st. Great Lakes International Iron Fest. Photos are posted on their website.
If you can't find someone in your area and willing to drive to the Pittsburgh area, you are welcome to try both of my hammers, 50kg and 60 kg.

I think that a lot of early shops were thrown together as after thoughts and as cheaply as possible. Not as much thought was put into making them as comfortable as possible as today's serious thought and concern for "ergonomics." But with all research, you can find variations and not all were alike.

I have worked on several different types of floors. I prefer concrete in my shop. 1, it is much easier to clean. 2. when you do drop something and need to pick it up with the tongs, that is the only thing I pick up, not stone, dirt or what ever. No matter what set up you come up with, you will eventually want to change it. Therefore, I have started putting wheels on most everything. Wheels roll easier on a smooth concrete service. Much more flexible. I do like to bolt certain things down to the floor, concrete works better, faster and again more flexible and versatile. Dirt floor requires digging deeper to "plant" something to make it stable. If you do not have a separate finishing "clean room", again concrete can be better. If you sweep it and keep it clean, less dust will mess up your finish, even if it is oil or wax.

Height: my current shop has 10 foot walls, I would prefer 12 foot, but since there is only one truss in the center to interfere with the distance to the ceiling, it is pretty good.

Lighting: I think the dark shop is hogwash and an old wives tale. I also think, that blacksmiths being intrinsically cheap, they did not want to put in windows. They were much more expensive to deal with "in the old days" than today. Plus, relying on sunlight in many places is unreliable. I have recently changed my lighting. I had inherited a lot of florescent lights in my current shop. It was set up for painting a race car. I love a shop that is bathed in light so there are no shadows, but not sun light bright. I certainly can see my colors. Five years ago, I also had changed the bulbs to a full 40 watt Phillips. It was great. As they were starting to show age and my neighbors recently put in some wonderful highbay lights I started looking. Instead of using 28 4 foot 40 watt fluorescents, I am using 4 High Density/Low Bay lights that use 1 250 watt bulb each. They should use less electric and still "bathe" my shop in light. I am getting used to the difference. They are supposed to cause less eye strain, but I did not notice that with my last round of fluorescents. I do not recommend the "economy" 37 watt fluorescents. I don't think I was ever bothered by the pulsation of the good florescent light that bother some people. If I am not totally satisfied with the new lights, someone recommend adding a couple of fluorescents to balance it out. I did move one of the new HD lights away from my electric welding bench as it was too much light behind me (shining in the hood.) I have also painted ceilings and walls white in previous shops. I was happy to find my current shop already with white walls. I am preparing to paint the ceiling white this week.

Stock racks: personal preference and space limitations. I keep threatening myself (prior to my current helper wanting to do this,) to change from horizontal to vertical. I see advantages to both. If you keep material at 20 feet, stay horizontal. I have almost always cut my stock to 10 feet. First out of necessity for transport, plus due to shop space. Also depends on where you locate and cutting device, I tried a chop saw for a while when a band saw died. I only used it for a couple of years before returning to the bandsaw, one of the cheap ones that can be used in both horizontal and vertical. Another very vestal tool. Plus they are quitter and cause much less dust. With the bimetal blades and a little lubrication, they can cut nearly as fast as a chop saw and the blades last as long or longer than the chop saw wheels.

I would only consider this hammer if I were collecting antique hammers. This may last a very long time and possibly longer than you will live. However, it will take more to time move it, set it up and get into running condition than expected. Especially if you have to travel a day or two to go get it, it could take nearly as long to move it and set it up as if you were to build a new hammer. There are many other options that are much more versatile, especially new. After owning (moving it twice) and running a 100 pound Bradley Compact for 10 years (full time, no offense intended to the part time smiths,) I do not regret selling that old wonderfully built industrial machine for my self contained air hammer from Tom Clark (God rest his soul.) Within minutes, I did not regret the move. After a few years, I was fortunate enough to buy a second self contained air hammer from Tom. While the start up cost may seem high, Tom's hammers are ready to plug in and work! If you have the electric plug ready, the only other thing you will need to do to a concrete floor is put a few holes in the floor around the hammer to keep it from walking. Yes you can get more involved with a fancy foundation, etc. but it really is not necessary. Even if I had the room, I would not consider buying any other hammer than a self contained hammer from the Ozark School of Blacksmithing

The ones I make, use and am having reproduced are based on an example found in Dunbar's Camp, the guy that was in charge after General Braddock was wounded then died, plus other 18th. century examples BRPA - Dunbar's Camp . So that is why I put the label "Colonial Pattern" on it. Yes there were lots of styles, but as mentioned, most early cross peens seem to have one thing in common, the peen is on line with the bottom of the hammer not the center as is most modern peens. Yes, there were some regional and of course personal variations. As pointed out, there are hammers for other trades that vary greatly. There are a couple of pattern books that have been reproduced that show these. My hammer is for blacksmiths, not silversmiths, coppersmiths, coopers, carpenters, etc, unless they want to do some serious forging. Without digging up a lot of research, you will see the basic pattern from the early 19th. century (that is 1800's) and earlier. One can even see this basic design throughout Europe. The English did import German and French ironworks in the 16th. and 17th. centuries. So there is probably less distinction in patterns than there is today. But many people today want a label and they want sound bite answers. So I made a flyer up, prior to posting it on IForge's Tailgating area as "Jymm's Colonial Pattern Hammer", not THE Colonial Pattern. As I am reluctant to broadcast something this basic as "MY" design, I choose to leave my name off the posting in the Tailgating section. Now, if you want a top notch, excellent 2 pound forging hammer that is made in a style that is appropriate to use for historic demonstrations. Look at the hammer I have posted in the Tailgating section "Colonial Pattern" Hammer - Blacksmithing Classifieds. There are 3 left and I do not know when I will be getting more. Everyone that uses these with my handles fall in love with them. I use one like this every day, I am a full time smith. One of my helpers uses one of these everyday. He stopped using other hammers after he started using this one. Other students have also made the switch and refuse to use any other hammer for basic forging. When I have reproduced tools for historic demo's, and get it right, I normally find out why some things should not be changed.

I would say it would be okay, maybe even work for earlier periods better. One of the common parts I see of earlier hammers, cross peen is in line with the bottom of the hammer. Many variations after that.

one detail most of these instructions leave out:
To make a bellows work much better, do not divide the leather evenly top to bottom. Instead, place more leather on the top chamber, as much as a 1/3 to 2/3 ratio. I can and have made a lager bellows smaller in overall size and work much better with this ratio. I cut about 12 inches of length off the back (and wider section) of a bellows, when putting on the new leather I applied this theory. It not only made it more compact, but worked much better. I also found garment leather in a remnant bin at a Tandy's store that happened to be just the right size. Garment leather works great, thin and supple, it cost me about $80.00 at the time, 15 years ago. These bellows still work great. I also did an old set in canvas about 20 years ago that is still in use. The garment leather is actually lighter in weight than the canvas.

I have been buying my belts from Klingspor Abrasives. A friend gave me a gig to cut 4 by 36 belts in 1/2, which is what I think Klingspor has been doing. I use the blue zirconium belts and prefer them

I have one of these on my Milwaukee 8 Inch 3/4 hp bench grinder. Great investment! I use the belt side far more than the grinding wheel. Anything from deburring to serious hogging and sharpening. I actually don't remember when I bought it, several years ago. I do not have the side miter table on mine, it was extra as I bought it from McMaster Carr for around $250.00. I don't remember what they wanted for the miter table. Plus I had to buy an adapter for the Milwaukee. It is extremely well made and I highly recommend this, as long as you have a good grinder to put it on. If not, buy one of their combos with a grinder. Get the biggest you can afford, 8 inch is far better than the 6 inch grinder. I could not find the 8 inch unit that they used to offer on their website.

Multitool USA

MULTITOOL 362 BENCH GRINDER ATTACHMENT
w/ MITER TABLE & GUARD !!!
OSHA & UL COMPLIANT !!!! by Multitool USA

Aside from the more personal side affects of being a self employed blacksmith for over 25 years, I apologize about not more information on how I have done it. I started out selling my wares at Revolutionary War events, mostly to the reenactors as that is what lead me into this. I still do Rev. War and F&I War events, some times going out on the field as a soldier, sometimes setting up my demonstration stuff (historic traveling forge,) or just a selling set up. That end of the business is very difficult to make a living. I also did a few craft shows a year, for a number of years. This was mostly before the internet was even around. I would try to find shows that had the level of quality in other crafts that I would not mind being associated with as that would also bring in the type of clientele that would be more likely to understand and want to buy the stuff I make. After my business really started to pick up with more and more orders, I had to face reality and not do as many shows, both craft shows and reenactments. At about the same time, my major client to date started to place bigger and bigger orders so I stopped doing craft shows. Now as those orders wind down, I decided to "hit the pavement" again to remind previous customers and potentially new ones that I am still in business. This fall I did a couple of paid demonstrations with the historic set up and a couple of reenactments as well as started my web site. I recommend trying different venues and not rely on one. I think people still want to touch and feel what I make, not just see it in pictures. I also keep a portfolio ready to show potential customers. I can't have everything on a table, but if they see some stuff then look at photos, it helps. In fact, last night I went to visit a potential new client that got my phone number from the yellow pages. Because I had my portfolio, they understood better and tripled the order from what was originally discussed as a possible order. I also believe that the nature of this type of business takes longer to get established than what someone at SCORE might say. They think a year or two and you should be there. Maybe, but I say more like 5 or more years. First you must have the skills in the craft and running a business. You have to first produce a quality product, be able to work with people (your customers and suppliers,) and be flexible to go where the market takes you. Until you get the business coming to you, you have to go to the customers. Also until you start getting orders, make some things that you really want to make so you have something for people to see and touch. Be ready to not have work and be patient with that, especially if you don't want to get trapped making a lot of things you don't want to make.

As Bill as said, I have enjoyed the comments.
Ever hear of the term starving artist? I have been there. I have also seen 2 guys get ambitious enough to try the self employment thing as blacksmiths over the last few years. They did not last more than 3 years each. One reason, they had families to support while they were trying to learn the craft and the business. I have been a full time smith for over 25 years. The first 4 years I was single. Most years I could have made more money than I have. However, as much as I love the craft, I also love my family and other parts of life. So one must define a "living". I have had to pay my own health insurance, but also take advantage of my wife's coverage when possible. There is some personal struggles and triumphs I won't bore you with, but they still affected me and my business. 2 years ago at age 46 I bought my first brand new pick up truck, well me and the bank. It does not have leather seats, but nice cloth seats. It is basically a jazzed up work truck, perfect fit for me. I was at it for about 10 years before I got my first power hammer a 100 lb. Bradley Compact. I ran it on a gasoline engine due to power and motor situation. I finally switched it to electric in 2001, a year before selling it to help pay for my new SayHa (now Say Mak,) 50 kg. self contained hammer I bought (again with help from the bank,) from Tom Clark, God rest his soul. Last year things got good enough for me to hire an apprentice for the summer and buy my second self contained hammer from Tom. In 1993, about a year or so after getting my first power hammer, I switched to gas and have not burned coal in my shop since. I only on a rare occasion due any fabrication work, mostly for me. I really forge, heat up mild steel and beat it to shape and do a lot of forge welding with propane. I have adapted to certain modern tools and developed some of my own. I still have debt and worries, but I have work, and still like to go to work. I tell most people that after 25 years plus, I am starting to get comfortable with the craft (I still have my days.) Now I am working on the business end of things. I pay my bills on time, and when possible early. When I stay focused on the good things and producing a quality product, I can make what I call a good living, not what many might call a good living, but I am happy.

The Colonial weighs about 100 pounds.
Thanks Mike.

You're welcome. Now that I know you are wanting it for heat treat, I highly recommend not messing with it. I was trying to get not only more efficiency, but higher heat since I do a lot of forge welding. When some one brought out some sort of heat measuring device from an old steel mill, one of my forges that he tested was going above 2300 degrees F. That is one of the newer non preheat forges. Without pyrometers, I still work by color. Is sparking white hot hot enough? To best control my systems for running cooler, I use a water gate valve on the air pipe before the gas is introduced.

While preheating air can increase efficiency, it is not always practical in application. I did run preheat tubes on my first gas forge for several years. The costs due to wear and tear on the piping, plus my time to maintain, replace etc. plus the loss of pressure due to extra bends in the pipe etc. did not pay. My system actually worked better by getting rid of the preheat piping that wrapped around the forge, etc. I used regular pipe, that did not last long, heavy wall that did last longer, as well as stainless, including heavy wall stainless. It is necessary to get the pipe really hot (red to orange,) to effectively heat the air for the short distances my system had. I found it better to use really good insulation, and good refractory materials and stop messing around with preheat tubes.

I voted 1. I only use propane in my shop. I only use charcoal with my historic demonstration traveling forge.

For the historic traveling forge, it takes a 14 foot tandem axle trailer.
For the modern demonstration, I only need my pick up truck. This is actually one of my every day forge systems on a cart. It has a unit of desk drawers set (not permanently,) into the cart. All of the tongs, hammers and punches I need can fit into the drawers for transport. The forge has to come off to fit into the truck as I have a cap. The forge lifts right off, plug the hose into a propane tank, plug a cord to a 110 outlet and I have power at the cart, 2 out lets. One on a switch for the blower.

Going to Colonial Rondezvous? I will have a double for you to see, as well as a colonial.

Another inexpensive (cheap) source for swedge blocks, cylinder/oxygen bottle bottoms. Trick is cutting them off, find someone that has a good band saw and willing to do this to decommissioned tanks.

I don't remember, I have frequently done that as a demo. For Eating spoons, I use 3/16 X 1/2 or 3/16 X 3/4, depending on how big. Forge down the handle and leave enough to spread out the bowl.

Ladles, either 16 gauge riveted, but I prefer to forge them with a wider bar forge welded then spread .

Hand hammers are the "colonial" or 18th. century and earlier pattern cross peens that I have forged, especially the ones from H13. The ones I am having machined from S7 (and heat treated professionally,) feel great, balanced, etc, especially with the handles in the shapes I make. The one with my arm is forge, the others are machined. These weigh 2 pounds.

Favorite power hammer is the Say Mak 60 from Tom Clark.

Found a photo of the blacksmith shop and smith's hut.

Unfortunately, it is not on their website. They are dreadfully behind in updating the website. The shop is outside the fort near a collection of buildings representing hospital buildings, smoke house etc. stuff they know was outside the fort, as well as the siege train that I have been working on. The virtual tour is only the "inner fort". There is an outer wall with a couple more batteries. I have done most of the hardware for the expansion project, including the fascine batter gates, and the buildings outside of the inner fort that is shown on the virtual tour.

Jymm
Hoffman's Forge -

Any one interested, I will be demonstrating at Ft. Ligonier this weekend as part of their 250th. Anniversary of the battle. They built a reconstructed frontier blacksmith shop that I will be doing simple things such as nails, on one of my hornless anvils.... I will also be available to talk about other iron stuff, such as the stuff I have making for them for the last few years.

Jymm Hoffman
www.hoffmansforge.com