Pat Roy

Have a great trip. I'd like to help but I'm on the east coast.

Nice demo Dave. I learned how from the Anvil Fire blue prints (Frederics Cross). I cut the smaller ones with a hacksaw but use a chisel on the larger ones. I like the effect of the finish work you did on those. I'll have to try that.

Glenn, thanks for the links.

Rusty; "From here, I can forge a good long taper and bend a scroll to fit the golden mean! Which by the way, is the most pleasing shape known to nature And by nature I mean everyone"

I disagree, don't speak for everyone.

I think I qualify.

You can connect regular smoke pipe to the metal bestos but you have to get their adapter. That's what I did.

Metalbestos double wall pipe is available in many sizes. It is expensive however. I used 8" because I'm cheap and that's all I could spend. It is working for me. Size might matter if you are planning to have really big fires. Google metalbestos to see all the various sizes and materials are available. You hardware store should be able to get it for you. I have used "True Value" and a local lumber yard.

A parallel:

My significant other is an artist, she paints murals(or would like to). People want a mural but cry if she wants to make $15 an hour. The same people don't flinch to pay a guy $30 an hour to spread off white paint on the walls of a room.

I have a customer(maybe) who wants 25 hand made cabinet pulls but claims her budget for that is $100; $4 each, go to WalMart.

I put my initials and year on some things I make. Some things are too small to take the marks. I have designed a touch mark but haven't bought one yet due to lack of funds; soon I hope.

I rarely make anything 4 legged. Three is easy.

From my experience, I wouldn't cross the street to pick up some free rebar. You can't depend on how anything will turn out.

I've used a 3/8" thick steel plate fire box for six years with no signs of deterioration. I guess 1/2" will survive at least as well. My forge welds are not always successful but I'm not blaming my fire box. Go for it.

I would have bought it for that price. See if that guy has some tongs and other tools.

Maybe I'll have to try it, but I won't be lighting any cigaretts.

You mean of course $9.44 per pound. And yeah, that's a lot of money. I haven't paid even $2 per pound for my anvils. But then I don't bid on ebay.

Just a question Pat.You`re talking about floor joists which are something working over an unsupported distance.I understand the theory and that goes along with the idea of bending a flat bar "the easy way or the hard way".
When the work is fully supported along it`s length like this anvil is on a stump does this still hold true?

I can`t help but wonder why the fork lift tines we`re cutting up aren`t being used in a vertically oriented mode rather than on the flat if there`s a real advantage to having them that way.

It may be an insignificant point but I believe the vertical orientation of the plates would produce a stiffer unit to resist the impact. But that is the mechanical engineer in me. In actual use, a 4 lb hammer impacting that mass of steel might be a thimble in the ocean so to speak.

As far as those fork lift tines in service; they are strong and tough but the are not subjected to impact loads and they do deflect a measurable amount but are not loaded to the point they permanently deform.

I'm just glad I am not tasked to shape that horn. I'm happy to have found anvils to buy rather than make. Good luck with your project OP, it's looking good.

This may be an easy way to understand why the laminations should be vertical;

Think of the floor joists in you house, they are on edge and pretty stiff. If you put them flat they would be pretty spingy. I know that the flat laminations are welded together but the welds are only on the edge, the piece isn't solid through and through.

It's a matter of "Moment of Inertia"(Section Modulus), you could look it up in your engineering handbook of course.

Rob Browne, how deep is your trailer? Knowing it is 6x4 does not tell anyone what the volume is. 640 kg is 1408 pounds(slightly less than 3/4 ton).

I buy coal in 50# bags and have not tried to fit one into a 5 gallon bucket, but I think one bag would more than fill a bucket. How long 500# will last is a function of how much time you spend at the forge, fire control and the scale of your work.

Locally I pay $12 per 50# bag of smithing coal and usually pick up 4 bags at a time from the local hardware store. I wouldn't pay shipping. I would look around for a source local to you. Also look for a blacksmithing group nearby, they would be a big help. The other thing I would do is try to focus my camera, or it could be my computer making things fuzzy.

Stormcrow, I like those designs. I like the texture. Thanks for posting.

Ah, the AVSMA unit. I forgot about that option.

When I cut with my torch there are jagged edges and dingle berries all over. What's wrong with your technique? Nice project.

Keep on pounding Duke. My first leaf was about 6 years ago. I was pretty pleased with myself. Since, I have made hundred if not a thousand. They show up on many things I make. With practiced hammer control you will get fast at it and really knock them out.

Once I got into blacksmithing I drifted away from many other hobbies that I thought should be my life's work, especially flying. Sold the plane and built a new shop. There's no turning back.

From my experience in ice climbing, I would rely only on commercially produced climbing tools. I have seen even commercial picks break in uncomfortable locations, but rarely. I would not trust my life on something I made in my own forge or my buddy's. How to you plan to test this thing, how many will you test. I recommend you hang it on the wall.

I didn't do as well as Joshua but I did get 100# of coal, the New Edge of the Anvil by Adrews and The Blacksmith's Cookbook by Whitaker.

I made a few jewelry trees.Jewelry not included.