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Simon_Dubman

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Posts posted by Simon_Dubman

  1. 59 minutes ago, Frosty said:

    Simon: I still don't know the tube diameter or the T size. Changing jet diameter might be necessary maybe even probably but I don't know what size you're using now. If you'll list what you're using it'll help me advise.

    Hi Frosty

    Nipple is 3/4 6 " long. The T is 1" x 1" x 3/4. I have a 0.8 mm (0.315 Inch) Tip. This is screwed into a 1/4 inch cap so does portrude into the top of the T a little. 

    Thanks again 

  2. 19 hours ago, Frosty said:

    Simon: Your burners can be adjusted for output easily enough once they're tuned. You just need to lean the fuel out or increase the air intake till it's running neutral or SLIGHTLY rich. It's one of the less happy factors of building naturally aspirated burners they must be fine tuned. I use gas rated 1/4 turn ball valves for fast shut offs and burner isolaters in multi burner forges. I just put them out of the high temp zone. I also like one right after the regulator as an emergency FAST shut off in case of an emergency. I run copper tubing as a supply connection on the burners as a safety precaution because of the high heat when I shut them off.

    Hi Frosty. 

    So keep the legnth at 6" and change the tips to smaller and even shorten to allow more air flow? Re piping with Copper is an option too, what size copper pipe is best? 

    I am not running the forge until it is set up correctly, i still have a coal forge to keep on working with. 

     

    Thanks for the help. 

  3. Thanks for the comments. 

    The Main body of the forge has refractory which is castable refractory which i purchased from a company that supply this material to forging shops and Kiln makers. The Burners do need a re design as you have all said there is no control. The Propane tank has a Regulator that is adjustable, the TWIDDLEY-DEE Ball valves are there as an extra measure to shut the gas off. 

    The base of the burners has a machined flare from 60mm solid EN26 grade steel with a 12 degree taper as Frosty's notes in his burner design. There are many different Burner designs on here and findinf the correct design where i can get the fittings readily available can be tricky. 

     

    As for the Forge location itself i have not run it up tempreture as yet, it sits in a large gargae and when running i have both pairs of double doors open. 

     

    If you can reccomend an adujstable burner design i can build then this may be the way forward. 

    I am based in the UK. 

     

    Thanks 

  4. Hi Guys 

     

    Thanks for the response. Frosty what do you recommend as flares? I can shorten the tubes and also shorten the tips to make a little better. I have run this up to temperature last weekend and the dragons breath was still as it shows in the video. Where my tubes go through the forge when i turn up the pressure for the gas i am also getting some flames returning back up beside the burner tubes. Is this normal? If not what's the best solution to correct it? 

     

    Thanks again 

     

  5. IMG_0367.MOVHi all 

    new to Blacksmithing and i have built a gas forge. The dragons breath what colour is it supposed to be? and how far out should it come from the mouth of the forge. 

    My Burners are 3/4 Pipe 8" long with a bell flare 1 1/4 x 3/4, T 3/4 x 1" and using 1/4" nipples with 0.8mm Tip (0.031")  i also have some 1.0 mm Tips (0.039")

    Does the flame look ok. I have also attached a video with it running in the forge. The forge is built from a Propane tank with 2" refractory wool and in the bottom Refractory cement to 1600 degrees Celsius. I also rigidized the wool prior to firing the forge etc. 

     

    Question i have is how far back in the wool should the burners sit?  

     

    I also have a coal forge which i built. in this i use smithy breeze coke. 

     

    Thanks 

    IMG_0366.JPG

    IMG_0368.JPG

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