heyyou910

And yet from another angle, being considerate of others posts. Many times I have felt stepped on and corrected. As I made my first posts, the questions were genuine. I didn't make them to be sent somewhere else or be trivialized. They were important to me at that time because that is all I knew. Then as I progressed a little, and wanting to help give some back, I'm sure I gave some incorrect advice at some point that I truly felt was correct. I'm sure I didn't do it so that some more experienced person could belittle my answer with his. This rarely encouraged me to answer more. Now as an advanced blacksmith, I am more able to recognize when a younger reply is not quite correct and I try to be encouraging while corrective and not be insulting in my replies.
Gobbler

Yep...Same condition as the one I have. Tiny dimples. I'll give it a whirl and see how she does. If it does end up needing some work, I'll make of the suggestions...Thanks folks :-)

Not really a specific size Glenn...just wondering if there's a rule of thumb in regards to stock size compared to peen and hammer weight. I guess that's why I hear of folks having so many hammers to choose from :-)

The texture is due to rust. It's a solid anvil, just the face is pitted from corrosion. If it won't make much of a difference as far as transfer to slick stock, I'll leave it. Hopefully the hammer will take care of it eventually. Guess I could always do some polishing if needed. Camera is down at the moment...otherwise I'd post some pics

Been looking at all the different patterns of hammers lately and was wondering....is the fat, chunky peen radius alot better for moving metal or is the thinner-styles better?....minus the coldshuts of course
I'm sure flattening the ridges from a 5/8" peen would be easier than that of a 3/8", but is it just in what you prefer?

What about peen radius compared to different weights of hammers?...1.5 lb compared to 3 lb?

Don't burn me down too bad folks...I'm still learning here :-)

just picked up a 200# fisher/norris in good shape. Edges sharp, only a couple gouges in oddball spots...only thing is, the face has an orange peel texture to it. Not too bad but not purdy and flat either. Is this something that'll level out over time with use or do I need to do some work on the face before use?

No pics as camera is down..sorry

thanks folks

Nice looking hammer :-)
I am curious about the tar and sand though. We use either metal or wooden wedges here for handles, but never thought of tar and sand. How does that work out for you?

Just picked up a champion crank blower and I read somewhere online a while back that the tub of these blowers should be filled with oil about 1/4 up from the bottom. I'm thinking some heavy gear grease on the cogs is about all it needs, but just want to make sure I'm using this old piece like it was meant to be. I noticed another post regarding a little of this but didnt get into a lot of detail. Sorry if I'm beating a dead horse here

Any ideas?

Thanks a bunch

For the past month or so, I've been trying to figure out what's the best way to go as far space needed on a new building to house everything. The 2 options I've found so far is a pre-fab metal carport style of two sizes. One size is 16' X 18" for ~ $1,000 and the other is 20" X 21" but the latter cost about $1000 more. They both have overhangs/soffits so closing them in later wouldnt be a problem I don't think. The other option I have is making a run up on the mountain for locust poles and build my own, which I'm leaning more towards due to the money aspect. I guess being as tight a banjo string is a good thing at times :-)
As of right now, everything is under a used-to-be woodshed and I'm sick of fighting the dirt-daubers over who's gonna have control of every little nook and cranny under the roof.

Has anyone else got out on the cheap as far as their building and if so, any suggestions?
Thanks a bunch

I'm sure this is something that's come up quite a few times and I appreciate yall posting the info again :-)

Thanks a bunch

Is there anything I can put down to help protect the floor of my gas forge before the damage gets bad?...Just finished up the forge, but find out about the flux eating away at the wool til everything was done.

I read somewhere online that ceramics used on the floor of the forge might help but I'm thinking it'll never hold up to the heat/abuse.

Any suggestions?

As a side-note in regards to hoods and chimneys...I worked in the woodstove/Chimney business for a number of years and when we did a new install for chimneys, you basically used the formula of sq. inches of opening (door) multiplied by 5%...this roughly gives you the diam. size of the chimney you need for it to draw properly. So, for a 12 by 12 opening/door, you'd end up with 144 sq. inches...times .05 (5%) gives 7.2" diam chimney. Have to either size up the opening and go for an 8" chimney or size down for 6"

I used this formula on the install of my woodstove and you have to be careful when you open the door...otherwise it sucks the cat into the firebox...lol

Just a random tidbit....don't flame me too bad :-)

I read something the other day about borax damaging the ceramic/insulating material in gas forges....Any truth to this or just rumor?

Thanks a bunch

Fisher and Norris...just grabbed a 200#' er made in 1930...Good anvils