Will42805

Well here is what im planning on... xxxxxxxxxxx for the drive wheel 

Vfd  xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx

Commercial links removed,

I suggest you read the ToS for IFI and post what you want to say rather than linking to commercial sites to say it for you

Well its been a while i just ordered a 2hp 3ph tefc iron horse motor from automation direct. 3600 rpm. Going to direct drive the drive wheel. Where would i look for a decdnt quality drive wheel

Im thinking that maybe i should gust go with a vfd, 3 phase, direct drive, 1700 rpm motor till i can afford a 3600rpm one with an 8 inch wheel. Ive never been the start out small and continuously upgrade sort of person. Better to just save up and do it right.

5 hours ago, Buzzkill said:

Sorry I don't have any pictures from when I was set up that way.  However, I did not use a tension system per se.  The two identical step pulleys were mounted opposite each other so that the largest pulley diameter on one matched up with the smallest on the other.  That way the belt length required remained the same no matter which combination was used.  It was similar to the setup for changing speeds on some drill presses.

So you simply stretched the belt around to change speeds

Would anyone mind sending me a picture of a step pulley setup. I know what they are and I know basically how they work but I'm not entirely sure how you would hook up the tension system thanks

So if i put a 3hp 3400 rpm single phase motor and simply change drive wheel sizes to attain different speeds. It's certainly not as simple as turning down a dial but I would not get The loss of Power from using a rheostat.

Agreed. Thats why i love forums.. good records

Should be 3500 fpm belt speed

Thsts why i left myself room to play with the table. I think i am going to direct drive my 3hp motor behind the grinder. After i build the motor mount i just need to get a vfd. I think this option leaves less links in the chain to break so to speak...

If i direct drive a 1700rpm 6in wheel i dont think ill have a very high fpm. Thats why i geared up the speed

Ive noticed they have up to 8 in drive wheels on ebay. Perhapse that on the 1700 rpm motor would work

If i direct drive a 1700rpm 6in wheel i dont think ill have a very high fpm. Thats why i geared up the speed

Luckly that is the chain and sprocket size i have. Was worried it may be too small. The motor is 1700 rpm 3 hp. So hopefully that evens out

If i switch to direct drive with a harbor freight motor it would go up top. Would enclose the motor on top with a filtered enclosure. I suppose it could be vented from the bottom too

The motors i have are fully enclosed. I had not thought about vibration though, much less how fast that chain will be running. Time will tell. I would have preferred direct drive however i would have to buy a new motor. My budget is a bit tight. I liked this idia because i can gear it up or down as i wish. I had thought of getting a harbor freight 3600rpm compressor motor but they arent enclosed. Would just build a filtered vented enclosure for it and get the extra warranty. Lol

Ok so i am posting this for suggestions, a little constructive criticism, and to avoid any costly mistakes. I purchased my grinder from thebeltgrinder. the grinder seemed to be built solid and easily adjustable and modifiable. I have 3 3hp 1700rpm 3 phase 240v motors i got that work was trashing due to a gearbox upgrade. I realize these are not the most idial for this application but they were free. I plan on running a 240 out to my garage. Once that is done i can use a vfd to power the motors. The motor will be mounted on the bottom deck and has a 32 tooth sprocket. The chain will come up through the table around a 15 tooth gear, 5/8 shaft with 2 saddle bearings. This will go to a 4in drive wheel. The saddle bearings will be raised up on blocks to afford the velt drive wheels some room. The gearing should about double the motor speed of 1700rpm to approx 3400rpm. There will also have a sheet of stainless or aluminum for both upper and lower table tops.

I do think the opening may be too small due to the fact that the burners seem to be pulsing. The burners no longer heat up though and seem to be burning down inside just fine. I do plan on maybe doming the top of the opening so that I may get other things in and have a little more room. I've only been running it for 5 to 10 minutes at a time to bake out any excess water.

About two or three hours after this video I went out and relit it. This time the burner seem to be functioning much better. They're burning down inside the forge very clearly. And the burners don't seem to be smoking nearly as much. I'll play around with it a little bit more later today.

And I will get some pictures

20180520_140442.mp4

Well there it is. Think i still got some burner tuning to do. How hot should the burner tubes get. Mine are hot to the touch I think it's burning up inside and they may be a bit long.

Finally got my kast o lite. I havent found much info on the consistancy it shold be when applied. I assume the concistancy of moarter. Sort of like a McDonald's shake. So approx. What consistency should it be.. also i will be applying several thin layers.

So much for the several layers. Its done. But approx 1/4 in layer.  Ive run a wagner heat gun in it for about 15 min at a crack. About how long should i wait before fireing the burners for the first time?

Finally got my kast o lite. I havent found much info on the consistancy it shold be when applied. I assume the concistancy of moarter. Sort of like a McDonald's shake. So approx. What consistency should it be.. also i will be applying several thin layers.

Very much so thank you

I originally did spray coat all the inswool front and back but was unhappy with the thin crispy layer i got so i brushed on a couple of cups more and now the inswool seems to be much firmer. Also I used a Wagner heat gun to speed up the drying process. Just close it off and stuck it in the hole. Seem to work very well

Thanks. I left the burners a little lower to account for the castolite coating to be applied but will recess them a little further. The burner tubes are snug to the inswool but i did rigidize inside. Should i pull the burners and enlarge them a little to also get kastolite  to coat inside the burner holes. Also im not sure what you mean by feathering but i see how i could lift the bottom of the last layer and insert a small piece to flatten out the floor and add a little more insulating value where the burners will hit.. how firm should the wool be after being rigidized?

Thanks

Will

Also i have 1" id black pipe with stainless coupler inside. I was going to use modifide reil burner on top but might pick up stuff to make dual t burners and attatch valves to throttle incomming air.

Thoughts

This should also give me the option of running only 1 burner without chimney effect.

Internal dimmentions of forge should be approz 7" diamiter and 14" long. Obviously a little less after coating with kastolite and pouring bubble alumina floor