Thidwick

The advice was to keep the burner moving back and forth over the wet blanket , but it's going to be a tough fit in there with a flaming burner. Maybe I misinterpreted the directions.

The guidance says that the burner should be used to dry and cure the rigidizer after its applied to the ceramic blanket. Would a heat gun be sufficient to dry it before troweling on the refractory cement?

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but them there ceramic fibers are made of alumina and silica; this difference is aided and abetted by the fact that the micro thin layer of silica powder that remains behind when the water dries out away are tiny, which makes them much easier to PARTIALLY melt. 

 I presume the forge will get hot enough to "melt" the silica even after kast-o-lite (or whatever) is added and cured, yes?

Hi Everyone,

I'm located in Raleigh, NC and just got into blacksmithing after taking a couple classes. I have a few things projects going on at the same time right now:

• Building a forge from a repurposed 11 gallon air tank. 2 frosty tee burners.
• Building a controller for a DC motor to be eventually used in a belt grinder.
• Upgrading my cheap harbor freight 90A welder to be DC.

That about sums me up: a serial amateur... hobbyist... lifelong learner!

Frosty  I noticed in the PDF that the ratio specified for the air intake is 2*D. Why does the reference design use a 1"x1"x3/4" reducing tee if the pipe is 3/4"? I'm missing something.

Edit: I meant to post this to the T burner directions thread.