Chiefum
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Posts posted by Chiefum
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Thanks for all the help everyone! I'll be sure to read and respond a bit more tomorrow. I just got done with a 13 hour shift so I'm going to go pass out now.
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On 7/11/2018 at 1:10 PM, JHCC said:
Also, consider getting some 3/8" x 1" and doing split rein tongs, like these:
I actually have a pair in mind from this guy off of youtube who teaches you how to make some basic tongs if you're lacking tools. Which of course I don't own much at this point. I don't have any punches or hot cuts or anything yet. I figure it all starts with making my first pair of tongs and I can go from there.
On 7/11/2018 at 1:11 PM, Gerald Boggs said:Try typing "steel distributors" as a search for Cincinnati, you'll find there's a lot. All the places I've every done business with, have allow me to look at their short racks or scrap bin. Better to know exactly what you're buying and the price will probably be better. And if you want a bit more, you can always buy the 20 feet and cut it up there.
That's actually how I found this company I'm working with right now. Cincinnati Metal Supermarkets. I need to look at a few more though and compare pricing. I did just send them an email about 20 minutes ago asking about offcuts etc. So hopefully that goes well.
On 7/11/2018 at 1:16 PM, John in Oly, WA said:$37.50 sounds a bit high. you could probably get it cheaper than that at the big box stores and I never recommend using them as a steel supplier. The big box store has 2" x 3/8" x 36" for $22.87 in my neck of the woods. That's the same amount of steel you're looking for - slightly different shape.
Have you shopped around for industrial steel suppliers that sell small orders retail?
What I often do is go in and order two 10' pieces of whatever size I want - short enough to tie to my truck or top of my car and get home with. They take a 20' and cut it in half. I figure any extra, I'll eventually use for some project, but even buying shorter lengths has never resulted in that high a price.
I checked around Lowes and Home Depot and they didn't have anything in a useful size. I'm basically going to have to keep shopping around and see what I can find. I'm currently calling scrap yards but I'm not getting anything too helpful really. I'll probably switch back over to looking for steel suppliers and distributors.
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Thanks, I've been meaning to get some playdough to do some practice and what not but just never got around to it. I'll probably pick up some tonight.
I've done quite a bit of research on tongs so hopefully from all the videos I've seen and your tips as well my first time won't be a total failure haha. Only time will tell I guess.
Also, I've gotten all my protective gear except the ear protection. I really should order that today...
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That's something I didn't know! I'll probably end up going to the scrap yard but I'll check and see what it costs for the stock length of steel. Thanks a lot for the information!
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So I've pretty much decided to just go to a scrap yard but I see odd prices for A36 steel. (I'm looking to make my first pair of tongs)
From my limited understanding, A36 is your run of the mill mild steel that works well for making tongs. So I found it on a website for maybe 4 bucks a bar in the size I was looking for. Then I saw the 20 something dollars in shipping and decided to look for someplace closer to Cincinnati to buy it from. It looks like the prices near me are somewhere around 37 bucks PER bar for the same size I was looking at earlier. I'm guessing they are including the cost it took to ship it to their location in the price?
Anyways, I'm just curious what you guys pay for mild steel for things like tongs? I'm trying to make my first pair so any help on keeping it cheap would be appreciated.
Edit* The pricing was for 3/4th inch thick, 1in wide, 36in long. and was 37.50.
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I did a search for Corton Ceramic and this is what I see.
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4 minutes ago, Buzzkill said:
O1 can make good blades, but it's usually not recommended as a starting steel. The forging range is narrower than plain carbon steels, and some of the contact or air quenching issues have already been mentioned. Other steels such as 5160 and 1084 are more tolerant of beginner mistakes in forging temperatures and quenching. Whatever you choose good luck and show us the results when you get a chance.
I'll see what I can find near me for 5160 and 1084. It seems like no matter how hard I look there isn't anyone around me that sells anything besides O1 that I can use. Thanks for the tip on trying out the 5160 and 1084, hopefully I can find them!
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10 minutes ago, Steve Sells said:
If tru grit doesnt stock them, then no one will. I buy mostly form USA knifemaker, but I dont know of anyone that makes ceramic 400 or 800 grit.
Ok, so normal belts for 400 and 800 should do fine then I guess.
I'm having issues figuring out some of the grits on some belt brands. I don't see anywhere that just out right says the grit.
For example Norton Ceramic SG R981... Does the 981 mean it's basically a 1000 grit belt? I'm pretty confused on what I'm looking for here when it doesn't out right say the grit. Not to mention I'm basically guessing on brands as well. I thought Norton would be a good brand but it doesn't look like they make many ceramic belts or at least these sites don't carry them.
This is probably more annoying than shopping for metal stock near me haha.
Also thanks for all the help so far Steve. I know it must be annoying answering all my stupid newbie questions.
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So I've looked through the list of sanding belt suppliers here and it doesn't seem like anyone has the full list of 2x72 belts I'm looking for. I want to buy my 40, 120, 220, 400, and 800 grit ceramic belts in one place and I was looking for belts that are decent quality even if they cost a little more. Do I have to bounce around and buy my belts from different sites?
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19 hours ago, Charles R. Stevens said:
Useless quotes removed
I'll get on that right now actually. I appreciate it!
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Nice, in that case, I'll probably pick up some o1 here this weekend and see what it's like. I really appreciate the responses and information.
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3 hours ago, Steve Sells said:
why do you think O1 doesnt have a decent amount of carbon?
Well I'm just new and I've read a lot of random stuff online. I thought 1095 has more carbon than 01 and makes for better edge retention. Alos I hear O1 rusts a lot easier and shouldn't even be stored in a leather sheath or it'll rust. Though that's just what I've read online while trying to do my own research.
3 hours ago, Charles R. Stevens said:A custom spring shop will have drops of known steel in the 60 point range. This will get you into the R50-60 range.
I'll have to make some phone calls on this then. Thanks!
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Would anyone know of a place I could but good knife making steel in Cincinnati Ohio? 1080 or 1095? I may settle on 01 tool steel but I'm trying to make my first actual knife and I would like to use something with a decent amount of carbon.
I've looked all over but can't seem to find anything but 01 tool steel around here. I'm basically just trying to save on shipping costs.
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31 minutes ago, ThomasPowers said:
Ohio is one of the greatest places I know of to buy old tools at fleamarkets. Can you spend US$5 a week doing that?
That's basically what I'm going to be doing. Picking up one thing a paycheck or so.
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16 minutes ago, Mikey98118 said:
Excellent forges can be built with little more than a couple of hand tools and a Dremel rotary tool from eBay. You are going to need a few of these tools anyway if you ever plan to build anything practical with your forge.
True enough that I'll need some tools at some point. Though right now I can't afford all that.
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That's a pretty good idea actually. Thanks guys, I'll get on asking SOFA and other blacksmithing groups.
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So I was wondering how helpful people are on here with actually helping to build a forge? Is there anyone willing to physically help me build a forge? I was going to buy a forge from Majestic Forge but I've seen some people on here complaining about their design and not being very efficient. I'm mainly asking because I don't own any tools myself so if I was to build my own then I would need help.
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Thanks everyone! I'll use this as my starter anvil for the next few years and maybe upgrade down the road. Now off to research forges and builds!
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That makes me feel a bit better. I thought about a mouse hole he had as well that was 150lbs for 550 but the edges had a lot of chips in it. Nice ring and rebound rhough.
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So I just got a Vulcan anvil and paid $300 for a 100lb anvil. I'm guessing i over paid by a bit most likely.
It is in really good condition and looks like it was barely used at all.
I'm from Cincinnati Ohio by the way. If that helps at all.
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After thinking about it I'm going to get the T-Rex burner. Worse comes to worse I can order a second one down the road for a larger forge.
Thanks for all the comments so far guys! Everyone's been a lot nicer than some of the people over on the Reddit Blacksmithing page.
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5 hours ago, Lou L said:
I know nothing from personal experience about propane forges. However, when I started this journey I read everything by Ron Reil hosted on Abana and he suggested you either build his design on your own or by the T-Rex from hybrid burners. When I build my propane forge I will either buy a T-Rex or build Frosty's burner. http://www.blacksmither.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/10/T-Burner-Directions-finished-1.pdf
Enjoy the decision making process. I was right where you are and ended up building a side blast coal forge...go figure.
Lou
I was actually trying to choose between a T-Rex or their 1' burner. I figure the 1' burner would be a little more "future" proof.
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4 minutes ago, Irondragon Forge & Clay said:
Welcome to the forum. None of us will remember where you are located ten minutes from now. You can go to your profile and add your location and may be surprised how many of the IFI gang are close to you.
If you read the forges 101 and burners 101 threads you might decide to build your own. I did (although I had a kiln burner) and everyone here was a tremendous help.
Good luck on your quest.
Done and done and thanks!
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Just now, GrumpyBiker said:
I'm up the road in the Marion Area
You're around 2 hours away from me. Honestly not all that bad considering how this is my first post on here haha.
Mild Steel Pricing?
in Blacksmithing, General Discussion
Posted · Edited by Mod34
Excessive quoting and inappropriate language removed
SO in case anyone was interested, I found a place 10 minutes from me that's pretty cheap and they sell small amounts or large amounts.
1 piece of A36 3/4'' thick by 20ft long is only 21 bucks... They also sell offcuts and whatnot! So I think I've found where to get my mild steel from.
Now I just need to find a place to get some good steel for Hot cuts and punches ect. Those I imagine need to be hardened so I need to do some research on what steel I need to find for those.
Thanks everyone for your tips and information!
I'll probably try to make my own for now. If I fail too many times then maybe but we'll just have to wait and see. I would have to get pretty frustrated to give up on it though.
I'll keep this in mind and keep an eye out for these kinds of places near me.
Side note, I would love to make fences at some point.
Thanks so much for this tip. Beacuse of this search “public steel sales Cincinnati”. I came up with a company that recommended 2 places near me that I'm pretty happy about the prices and they sell offcuts!.
Xxxxx, that's a lot of steel for not much money. What are you using all of that metal for?
The YouTube channel Black Bear Forge is the guy I was talking about.
What metals are acceptable for making punches and hot cuts? They need to be hardened, correct? So I need to make another order of carbon steel. Also yes, I jumped the gun and ordered some carbon steel for making knives way too soon haha.