Lenaghan

Haven't posted here in a long time so what the heck! Dont wanna be a welder anymore just wanna make swords(I can dream right?) just a little random assortment of work over the past bit...

Hi there, I would suggest what already been said and epoxy and pin the handle, you can use even a small pin which should show to much. There should be several threads here showing how it's done in the knife forum.

I know its not a real sword and your not going to use it and doing both could be overkill, But I have a fear that some one will pick up one of my swords I have on my work bench that only has a handle "loose fit" and the blade will fall out onto a foot... even "fake swords" are still sharp 3 foot blades...

Warpage is something thats almost always going to happen to some degree,

Glad it survived but pics or it didnt count :P

Been holding off selling till I got better at this so I still have most of mine, a few have left home... 8 of these are pattern welded to some degree

and to your far right is the first thing I ever forged, a short sword! hehe  ;)

Lets see those swords!

Simple answer yes a dime thickness would be fine, I tend to go hair thicker. Good luck! 

HI, I'm gonna PM you... as I'm only 2 hours from kenora! good thing you updated you location hehe

I've been making swords for alittle over 3 years now and other blades for several more years... I consider myself a swordsmith, maybe still a appentice without a master...                Do I sell swords?           NO    I do not,   to ask a fair price most the reponses I get are rude and insulting, investing a huge amount of time and money into this with sometimes over 100+ hours into a blade and get offered like Steve said a couple hundred dollars!   But I'm paying a women 2000$ to take pictures at my wedding and she was one of the cheaper ones!!!!!   sorry starting to rant

I make swords cause I love to make swords, if I sell a blade the moneys going to cover travel costs to hammer-ins or meet other smiths to improve my craft.

Good job, the first ones always a huge step!  and nothing wrong with it being a wall hanger... years from now you'll look at it and see how far you've came!

My suggestion to you if you wanna make more is start keeping records! everything from the steel you use, to weight, blance points. what you like or dont like... what you eat the morning of HT... :P     You've already seen how much time you invest into these blades, it's good to try not to make the same mistakes twice

I'm intrested in what you choose of the pommel

I think he's asking the length he should cut his steel bars to be able to forge a sword out of... 

Silent, is it illegal to own a sword? or to buy/sell/import one cause there may be a difference... can you own a knife? cause if thats a yes, find out how long and start by forging a tanto out to that length

this same type of thread has came up so many times and I never get involved... all I can say is start small

Thanks guys,

Frosty, Yeah I know I suck at taking photo's... the only reason I even bought a camera was to take photo's of my knives and I do need to work on it, a light box would be a good start... and making a web site, but everytime I get some free time I'd rather just forge something ^_^

Thomas it feels great swinging it, haven't had a chance to do much cutting with it yet. I would love to get some real western martial arts training so I actually knew how to use swords better. It would most likely make me a better smith too

Hey guys, seeing as I rarely see swords actually get posted here I thought I'd add one!

This is a rare sword type(I *think* there's only one) with hilt parts the same as swords from the Castillon hoard but with a single edge falchion  blade. I had some really intresting geometry to it and loved the hilt so it was both fun and a challege to make. It's as close as I'll come to making it without getting to see or handle the real thing... 

I know weight comes up here, well the real ones said to be 869 grams with alot now corroded of the tip and a few large chunks missing... so  making the blade the way I thought ended up being 1001 grams

(2 lbs 3 oz.) with a grip on. It handle really fast and feels light but still has a strong slashing power to it, also the tips fine enough to put it where you want...  

here's what it's based on   there's better photo's in some books....

here's the blade forged to shape, next to the concept drawing 

there's double fullers and a ricasso, for me it's harder to get a good photo after its polished

Hope you guys like!

Even the handles look sharp! great job

I can see where your coming from, and agree with you Thomas... I should have posted that this was my own take on things. When I was making the sword I never had planned on finishing the sword historically correct, I had wanted to use alot of textures and picked my materials to highlight that. I guess back in the day very few objects one might have would have any shine to them at all, making something that did alot more rare and valuable! Where as today even simple things we have can be reflective... I have nailclippers on my desk that I can see myself in and never thought twice about! And a piece of wrought iron with all it's flaws draws the eye too it...


Mod note: Title edited to reflect this

Thanks guys,

Thomas I know the hilt should be fancy, it was just my own take on things... if I could get my hands on a bunch of gold or silver I'd love to make a fancy inlay plating job!

Hi guys, here's a sword I just finished up. Been working on this one for some time now so I'm glad I can get back to the forge again...

blades a 3 bar interrupted twist, with a edge around 220 layers
hilts wrought iron heavly etched with a wood/hempcord/leather handle



Hope you guys enjoy... took me all summer to make :blink:

Thanks Frosty! I used 1084 and 15n20 for the core, and W1 for the edges

well got it all finished up, sheath is made outta 2 layers of leather bound and glued together. Inner layer had the hair still on which help protect the blade and makes a tight fit but still easy to draw. Rabbit fur on the out side just to give it that character... Learnt alot from this one but now it's time to get back to the forge!

thanks for the comments guys! Blades all done except for the little touch ups... I have a bad habbit of not making scabbards for my blades so I'm gonna actually try to follow through on this one



Hope you guys like, I'm pretty happy with it all and all but wish it was the 30 inch blade it was meant to be

Hi Everyone, this was made to be a full size Migration Period blade but things happened... reforged the tip and now I have a shorter sword lol here's some pic's of the bare blade, and one befor the etch when I was working on fitting the hilt parts up on a sunny day


I peened the hilt/handle together tonight just waiting for the epoxy to dry then on to a leather...

(edit) thought I'd put some stats incase anyone wants to know

Blades 23 1/4
Overall 27 1/4 (no lower pommel yet)
width at gaurd 1 7/8
weight 710 grams (bare blade)

I wouldnt know how to forge a triangle blade, but I guess thats very tapered so I'd only forge maye the first foot like that, then forge the rest of the shape and just grind the bevels in. Also the last 1/3 of the blade will be so thin its gonna lose heat fast, careful not to work it too cold I know the urge to give it those couple last hits!

Cold steel site says 22 oz. thats everything so you wouldn't need much steel, any spring shops around you where you could get a new off cut?

also keep in mind car springs arn't an 1/8 thick and bending as much as a swords required too..

The amount of effort that goes into making a sword means that buying good stock to start with will SAVE you big time. If it would take you 5 hours to earn enough to buy a good piece of steel and you *save* by using scrap that turns out to have a hidden flaw in that shows up *after* you have done 25 hours of work on it---did you save?

Very nice, I love how the pattern flows with the Wolf tooth! First time I tried a wolfs tooth I drew it out too much and got a wave...

Well got the handle all done, just needs some touch ups now and a scabbard made up

Steve I've got that comment alot, and I had thought the same about it... but I went into it know I'd be grinding alot to make the fuller, also after everything was stuck I ground most the weld flat and I used a 110 volt 70 amp cheapo welder knowing full well it has little penatration. About closing the welds my 20 ton press took care of that :D

I just thought maybe I should put the stats too...

Overall 35"
blade 28 1/2
1 7/8 wide at gaurd
just under 1/4 at gaurd tapering to 1/8
wide fuller running entire lengh of the blade except 2 inchs from the tip

weights of the blades at 720 grams

still making the gaurd and pommel but should end up around a 4 inch balance point and be under 3 pounds