Rylan Fletcher

Thanks a lot for the answer and the video link!

Does it exhaust straight outside or also have a vertical section?

Hey guys and gals!

This question may have been answered already but I have searched on this forum and google and haven’t found an answer so here it goes!

I’ve been trying to find a source for kast-o-lite or the equivalent up here in west central Saskatchewan but haven’t been able to find a source. I’ve looked online and have found it for sale but the shipping scares me! I was wondering if any fellow Canadians knew of an equivalent available here ? Or a source in the city of Saskatoon as I’ll be there tomorrow.

thanks!

Rylan

Thanks for the advice! I’m definitely gonna do that! I have searched around this website as well as the web and haven’t been able to find measurements on preferred size of slot for drifting axes and such. I know it will depend on the size of axe and tools to be drifted but do you have an idea of a good starting point?

thanks

Rylan

Thanks for the replies!

that was my thinking too JHCC is that it would be easier to add it now then after it was welded together. I think maybe  larger hole for drifts and a slot to go along with the 1” hardie hole, my main anvil has a one inch hole so I would like them to match to share tools! Do you have any recommendations on the size of the large hole and the slot?

thanks

Rylan

Hey guys!

My dad picked up a peice of one inch plate that’s 24” by 24” for free off a job site he was working on. The plan is for a striking anvil! I was thinking since we have the plate to make it 6 inches wide by 24 inches long with a one inch hardie hole. But I was wondering since I have the length if I should put a different shaped hole on the other end like a swage block Kinda? Like a rectangular hole for drifting axes and such?

thanks

Rylan

Thanks for the quick reply you two!  With the new information I'll have to do some more looking for a new body to use! 

Thanks again,

Rylan

Sorry for not being clear enough mikey, the forge shell is already cut and drilled, that's how It was given to me. All it needs is a new lining of koawool. I was wondering if I should use a frosty burner that I have built already from a previous forge or build a new linear burner using the pipe fitting in the picture 

I recently picked up a new forge from a local knife maker to replace my old one. It's a peice of 10" pipe 24" long mounted vertically on 1" plate. He was using it as a salt pot to heat treat in before he built a new one and gave me this along with a Bag of 1" koa-wool insulation to reline it with. For a burner he was using a 2x1 swedge with tubing going through with a hole drilled in the tube. I was wondering whether that burner would have the right atmosphere for regular forging? He had no way to adjust it at all that I could see. Should I make a burner like that or would I be better off using my 3/4 frosty t burner? 

Thanks in advance.

On 6/7/2016 at 1:33 AM, Kaylee said:

 there is a 12" leg vise up for sale right now, in Rhode Island. 

HUGE VINTAGE KAYES 12" JAW BLACKSMITH , WHITESMITH LEG VISE , NICE COND. ANVIL

What would the web address be for that site? I'm afraid I've never heard of it before.

thanks in advance

Thanks for quick reply timgunn1962! 

I had a feeling in my gut it wouldn't work for similar reasons but I thought I'd ask people more qualified than me! 

Thanks again

I was recently looking through instructable and stumbled upon this image and was wondering if it would be a suitable burner for a long and low heat treat/bladesmithing forge? Also here is the link to the instructable.

http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-Make-a-BBQ-Burner/?utm_source=newsletter&utm_medium=email 

im mostly wondering if it would be able to get up to temperature or what modifications would be needed. I already own a small home built forge so this is strictly outta curiosity.

thanks in advance