jonboy79

Oh sorry, i did read it but in an email, i later replied to it in the post above saying how i appreciated your kindness, but then forgot to actually open the PM. I've just had a look though a few of your posts (not stalking you i promise) and seen the thread with the 'add on's' the sun visor etc, thats a nice little set up you have there, was thinking i would like something about half the size. Different approach for the tuyere/fire pit, i like it and i don't think i have ever seen anything like it. Kudos. Well no rush as i have ideas of what i want, then research then change the plan, so to be honest this has been of and on for a little while now, which i always find the best way to work. I will leave you as it sounds like you are a busy man. Regards

Hey good points, the thing i have learned so many times before when making things is explore all angles, research then discard ^^ I think due to the quantity of water needed this water cooled tuyere is not going to suit this design. Oh well exercise and lesson learned and no metal cut, that's a result any how. So the clay option might be worth a try, most simplest and at the cost of a few inches of pipe and a bit of digging why not. Frosty i didn't pay for sketchup it's the free version as i am not using it for work. I know about 5-10 years ago they changed their policy, but then i think google sold it. They still have free versions that work really well and extra plugins to download. The only problem is sometimes if you have designed something in a previous version it might not always work with a current version, but i don't think i have ever had a problem that i couldn't rework, i think it just mentions that it will be saved in the current version then you will not be allowed to open it in a previous version. I would be lost with Sketchup, i'm more of a visual person and can pretty much design something to the MM and foresee any problems. To be honest there is not a lot of stuff i do pay for if the unpaid version works well, but i will buy some software as i don't believe in cracked software, well that and also i don't trust the people that crack them and what they could have written in the code. Regards Iron Dwarf, i dont suppose you have any pictures knocking around on this forum do you?

Cheers Frosty. I hope we are on the same page, just done a quick sketchup model of what i was thinking. Using it's own fluid dynamics to exchange hot and cold water circulation, hopefully. But the size of the water tank is the next question, i've heard by the end of a forging session people have said it's been boiling, i don't want to run to waste from a garden hose, but also i don't mind topping up every hour either, just don't want it to be too big or heavy, so was thinking 2 litres?

Thanks frosty, yeah i've done a bit of arc welding and know the dangers of the coatings they put on and yes always where a respirator when grinding any metal. Maybe thats why i haven't seen that fella carrying on with his SS tuyere then, i knew when welding the fumes are not good, but i thought that was due to the metal actually being molten and not just really hot, great advice. So then the KISS method then, maybe malleable iron pipe 2" with a 3/4" reducing bush, and 3/4" pipe running through the middle for the air, a T fitting at the other end with another 3/4" bush for the air pipe to come out of attached to a small water tank sounds doable then? Over here in the UK you type in black pipe and it's more malleable iron or galvanised that comes up in the searches so just double checking. Iron Dwarf, once again i thank you for your kindness with inviting me to see you in action, i really appreciate that. I had my daughter today, and i think if i was building something other than a small forge to get started out on, that's portable and will only be used once or twice a month i would defiantly take you up on your offer. It has been a lovely day for it, i hope the event went down well. Many thanks again.

So i have noticed when it comes to bottom blast forges a lot of 'Black Iron' is used for the ash collector and the air intake, and when talking about fire pots 'Cast Iron' or very thick steel plate is used. Can i clear some things up as sometimes transatlantic words get confused. 'Black Iron' = steel pipe used for plumbing that is often painted black? 'Cast Iron' = anything castable that is a purer form of Iron, less carbon and other additives, has a higher melting point then steel, lasts longer? 'Malleable Iron' = also known as 'Grey Iron' Can this be used instead of 'Cast Iron'? Could i use 'Black Iron pipe' or 'Malleable Iron' and fittings to make a side blast tuyere, if water cooled or covered in clay? Is there anything else apart from the melting of metal, like oxidising, thermal shock etc, that takes place in a forge that makes one metal preferable to another? I will give a little insight to what i'm getting at, and that is a side blast forge, reasonable small, coal as fuel so manually aerated. But not to sure if i should use just a piece of black pipe protected with some garden clay to protect it a little and then when the pipe starts to melt down just push a little more in and re-clay, like the wash basin forge (simplest option). OR to make a water cooled tuyere from pipe and fittings. I've also seen on youtube a guy who made a stainless steel side blast tuyere that looked like a bycicle bottom bracket, that got me thinking but then thought the thin walled chromoly type of steel might not last that long even if water cooled. Regards

KoR believe me isn't the scariest person i have seen on youtube, check this guy out. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uXEPy6Za6cI&t=363s I don't suppose you are one of the chaps who does the Sandringham shows are you? I was up there a year or two ago and there was a few chaps with old forges doing a bit of work. My parents are hopefully putting there caravan up around your neck of the woods this summer, so if they invite me over i will pop by.

Hi and yes as well as other google searches, and it appears that 75% of people would recommend a brake drum as a fire pot, and 50/50 on the brake rotor as less depth and vents around the sides. Funny thing is that i had just thrown away two rotors a few months ago, i might have another look at the section to see if any other item pops up as a fire pot. But i guess you are saying yours works fine at the depth. Thanks for the offer Iron dwarf, but in the fens ATM for my sins. Funny you should say that it was him that got me first interested in a foundry all those years ago and has expanded from there. But the melting of AL was more for castings and art. Regards

Hi, been reading quite a bit and finally jumped in for a little more advice. So was really tempted in making a gas forge, but looking at the price of propane here in the UK to the price of coal, and the history with a coal forge, a sentimental value i think i am going with coal. So my usages will be something like this, once month make a knife, pound on some iron, heat treat some fabricated steel or use it as a foundry to melt some Al. I'm looking for it to be reasonably portable in the sense of taking it out of the shed, and to be honest i'm not going to be spending big bucks on this, i just need it more as an occasional tool, and xxxx if i like it i will invest some more!! Also will be going down the rail track anvil or sledge hammer head if you see where i'm coming from. I'm like a Magpie when it comes to scrap metal and so far in my collection of items i have to use for a surround to the fire pot would be an expansion vessel/tank, 8 litres which i was thinking about adding a couple of hinges so it will open up or give a little wind protection if used out side, here is a picture A couple of mid sized party balloon helium tanks, the type most people are making lined gas forges from and a camping gaz R907 tank, Now i think the metal from the camping gaz tanks are going to be a little to thin for a fire pot and i see a lot of people recommending at least 3/16ths thick steel plate, but every one around me holds the price of steel quite close to there hearts, to be kind!! So i was thinking about using either the ole brake drum, a piece of H or I beam then weld on some ends or brick them up or some sort of cast iron skillet?? Sorry for the long winded post but wanted to explain a little of where i'm at and what i need. Regards Please refer to IFI's T & C about the use of foul language