kander54

I am curious if I could use a flu set mortar as the coating over the ceramic fiber (after rigidizer) or would this be similar to using a refractory cement, I have a local block company that sells "ALSEY Flue-Set" Non-Water Soluble Refractory Mortar-- Medium Duty, which has a service temp of 2700. I am attaching the product data sheet, after this I would apply either the ceramic coating

Flue-set_NWS_mortar.pdf

Thank you Mike, I have give a special thanks to BuzzKill, he hooked me up with a copy.

On ‎5‎/‎8‎/‎2016 at 0:56 AM, Mikey98118 said:

Darious,

And you are the vary sort of pupil I was hoping to give the advice to! First, I would advice you to obtain a copy of my old book "Gas Burners for Forges, Furnaces, & Kilns. No, this isn't a sales pitch; it has been pirated to the net for yes, so you can obtain a free copy. Because there has been a lot of water flow under the dam since publication, I can update you and others who read this. This is IMHO  your best pass, but far from your only one. We can speak  about burners from other designs; there are a number of worthy designs floating around; it makes no difference which one you want to go with. My first burner was a Ron Riel linear design, which was quickly  modified, and we where off to the races. With  the MIG tip modification and a step style modified combustion "flare" (burner nozzle) it is still one of the best burner out there, as is the Frosty "T" burner, for a lot less work and money invested then either mine or Ron's. Next we come to the Modified Side-arm burner, which has been around for many years; you can find a lot of knowledge about it on the Larry Zoeler Forge site, but he isn't available to give you personal input on the material, and my knowledge about it is a little weaker than is available than Jerry's and mine on the others burners.

Pick your poison and let the questions begin. 

 

 

 

Sorry about all those typos; they'll be around for a while. Also I don't mean to imply that you cant start with whatever questions are already on your mind. Please begin.

Mike is there any other places to obtain your book, I have attempted to find it on the "pirated" sites but they all appear to be scams and the print books are out of my league in cost. 

On 8/12/2017 at 1:21 PM, Mikey98118 said:

After decades of failed attempts at making a good homemade refractory, zirconium silicate/Veegum, which can be found at many large pottery supply stores, is able to meet this need; back up a couple of pages, and read about it.

Would this be what I would use as the refractory coating over the ceramic fiber, and is this something I can trowel on or will I need to make a form

Great information, I plan to take a wire brush to the paint on it. Any other suggestions cleaning it 

7 minutes ago, C-1ToolSteel said:

A good beginner hammer size is 2- 2 1/2 lbs. You can use a 4 lb hammer on a 99lb anvil as long as it is the HOT steel that you are hammering on.

Thanks for the information

I recently purchased an ACME anvil, I believe it is  99 pounds since it has 99 stamped under the ACME, am not sure if it is a Trenton or Hay Budden. I have several photos. Also am a newbie so what would be a beginners size hammer to use on a 99 lb anvil. Also would anyone have an idea about when it was made?