Diesel_reaction

3 hours ago, Scrambler82 said:

The fittings you are using, what are the center pieces ?

I know you use inserts for plastic type tubings but I didn't know for copper tubing.

Also, what type of tubing are you using and where was it made ?

I found the thinner copper tubing does not seal as or bend well as the Refrigeration Grade Copper Tubing !   Refrigeration Grade Copper Tubing is, I believe, the thickest tubing you can buy and it bends nice but a little harder to bend than thinner tubing !

Also, l like the looks of those burners, what is their BTU rating ?

 

The fittings say compression fittings for copper or plastic the center peices are i serts for the plastic i didnt use them though they just come installed incase you need them. The tubi g is refrigeration grade made in the USA. Attached pic. The burners are the T-Rex burners by Hybrid Burners. Ive heard nothing but great stuff about them. BTU chart Attached.

2 hours ago, Frosty said:

Not compression fittings, you want to use "Flare" fittings. Make your copper tubing long enough to bend a loop in it that way it will flex if something hits it. Cut just right and it'll kink or even break if something hits it.

Your construction looks good. What refractory are you going to use to cover the ceramic blanket? Leaving it uncoated will really shorten its life and you'll be breathing more hard fired ceramic fibers than you really should. A 3,000f water set high alumina castable refractory works very well it's concrete hard at welding temps and is impervious to hot borax welding fluxes. Borax at welding temps is caustic in the extreme and dissolves silicate ceramics like fire brick and ceramic wool refractory blanket. Alumina ceramics don't care at all about caustics.  As of now Kast-O-Lite 30 bubble alumina refractory is looking like the most popular. It's very effective in my forges.

I'd lose the fire brick, it's a heat sink if hard brick and soft brick degrades quickly with the thermal cycling of a small shop forge like we use. 

It's easy to make a flat floor and there are a couple good methods. You can fill the bottom curve with blanket trimmings and smooth flat with refractory. Or you can lay a piece of high alumina kiln shelf on the blanket. 

LIke I said, that's a good looking forge it's going to be screaming hot with 3 Trex burners in such a small volume. That's okay you can use one and make a smaller forge for later. 

Frosty The Lucky.

Flare fittings for Copper tubing ive never seen them before. Where might I find them? What do they look like?

Im using Itc 100ht to cover the blanket and I coated the inside metal of the forge and burner tips in Itc213. Also theres no fire brick the forge floor is a 1" thick peice of high alumina klin shelf, i hope it will be sufficent . The only spot I was going to use actual fire brick is at the mouth of the forge i welded on a ledge so I can stack them over the opening. Also i made a peice of tge klin shelf round so it can block off the back of the forge so i can make it as shallow or deep as i want. The wide open depth is 24" and about a 7" diameter.

Also thanks for the suggestions

Hey there I need some help with hooking up the burners to my forge. Im new to smithing and this is my first attempt at a forge. My forge has 3 trex burners and my goal is to be able to use them independantly or all together. I have researched how the propane distribution block should look and came up with this. Pics attached. My issue is to go from the distrobution block to the burners i need to use flexible copper tubing and to connect it im using compression fittings, the issue is the compression fittings keep leaking ive tried a hundred times and i just cant get them not to leak propane a bit. Is there a special way to do this? Any help would be great.

Thanks