Sling-it
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Posts posted by Sling-it
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Well, according to the bath scale, she came in at 450 lbs! Brick under one side, and scale under the other, read, swap, add the numbers. The horn side came in at 260, the heel came in at 190. There's probably some plus/minus there, but that's pretty darn close.
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The only reason I mention those is that they are deeper penetrating rods. 7018 is low sulfur and a stronger weld, but also a harder steel(structural). No need to go nickel since it's not cast, and 6013 isn't a deep weld(nicer looking welds, but that'll be ground off anyway). Surly no need for hard face.
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Buzz, I guess you've got a point. With 1" being the smallest I can get, the hooks won't be small at all, but I guess I could make a hardy to see how that would work out before actually working on the anvil.
Assuming I decide to fix it, would 6011 or something like 7018 be the best? Maybe more to the point, standard rod, or a structural "harder" weld?
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25 minutes ago, jeremy k said:
Horns are not hardened, heat tip with torch and hammer back to a point using a larger sized hammer on the opposite side to back up your hammer blows...easy peasy. I highly daught the little time it will take to repoint the existing metal, you shouldn't have to worry about the face at all. No need to weld a new point on.
That's an awful lot of horn to heat up and move. I got a feeling welding a new tip on would be easier. Back cut to get full weld.
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If you guys were to fix the point of the horn on this beast, how would you go about it? Without measuring, that tip is about 1" diameter? I thought seriously about making a new point and welding it on. I think it would be the least amount of heat to put into it.
Weld, hose, weld, hose... grind to finish?
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I watched the video again, and he did pour it from a dipper into a square mold. Kozzy, you're right :D. See 5:00 for the sample.
This is apparently from 1938, which is just a few years before my anvil was made, but the same mill it came from. Any idea where I could get an old mold like this?
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Just the mold is the dipper from what I can tell from the video. The hammer, ladle, and tongs are tools I'll be using on the anvil. so that's not going to be a problem. The mold would tell the story with a visual fit - that's why I'm interested in one.
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Agreed, this is long term wear pattern. She came from Granite City Steel in Ill. Would just a ladle be used to take samples? I saw a video from there where they used the RR track running through to knock the sample loose....I was hoping to see my anvil
The fella I got this from said it was a loop shaped thing with ceramic tube???? I've got no idea what he's referring to though. I'd love to find one or something similar.
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I just purchased a pretty nice anvil. The story is this big girl was rescued from an old open hearth steel mill. Each hearth had one by it which they used to knock the samples out of the tool they used to take samples.
I have done a search on any terms I can think of, but no where can I find anything like what I'm looking for. I'd LOVE to have even a worn out one of these to keep with the anvil.
Here's a pic of the damage the anvil took over the years doing this job. Does the imprint look familiar? Can you help me decipher exactly what this is from?
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On 10/2/2016 at 2:21 PM, Black Frog said:
Sling-it, with some wire cup cleaning, my guess is that there was/is a leading "4" digit to the serial number, I think I can see it faintly. A&H had several different logo styles, and I've been creating serial number ranges for each style stamp. That style was later in their history, so if that SN had a leading 4 digit, making the serial number 47686 would make sense.
Fatfudd and Benjaman, could you please post pics of your side logo stamp and serial numbers for your A&H's? I'd love to add them to the logo database! Also could you two measure face width and heights too? thanks!
Did a little work with the wire wheel tonight, and verified there is a 4 in front....well, half of one anyway. Is the early 40's as close as your informatoin gets for a date?
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With the knowledge on here, would anyone know what they were knocking the samples out of on this anvil? I'd love to even find an old one to keep with the anvil. I've seen some old video, but never an example of these.
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5 hours ago, Black Frog said:
Sling-it, with some wire cup cleaning, my guess is that there was/is a leading "4" digit to the serial number, I think I can see it faintly. A&H had several different logo styles, and I've been creating serial number ranges for each style stamp. That style was later in their history, so if that SN had a leading 4 digit, making the serial number 47686 would make sense.
Fatfudd and Benjaman, could you please post pics of your side logo stamp and serial numbers for your A&H's? I'd love to add them to the logo database! Also could you two measure face width and heights too? thanks!
Assuming that is a 4, what year would you guess this to be?
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Took a look at the back side, and nothing but a blank canvas as near as I can tell. I may find something else in the cleaning though.
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Just picked up an Arm & Hammer today. Found a deal that I just couldn't pass up, but she's a big'un!
Maybe someone can help with a guess here. Table is 6" wide, and she's 38" tip to tail....even with an inch or two off the tail. I guess no one wanted that surprise, so she's been bobbed..
The word is this came from an open hearth steel foundry and was used to knock samples out of the ceramic dipper? The table is pretty worn down due to the repeated use, but the face hasn't been hardly used. Just a few pits from the foundry environment and wear by the table. I think it adds character.
As near as I can tell the foot has 7686, and I can't find any sign of a weight stamped on it. Maybe a clean up will help. I've gotta find another bathroom scale before I can weigh it...something tells me one won't handle it, but 2 should give me a fairly good idea. I'm guessing mid 500's?
Mothers Xmas Candle Holder
in Member Projects
Posted
Sorry, I didn't get any other angles of it. The "C's" are in line, and the two legs angle out about 45 deg. It actually took a little reshaping after this, so the two C's match a little better now.