DocDrew

I know this is a tool, and not a blade, but you guys are really the masters at tempering, so,,,
Just built a quickie wrench out of an old truck spring (leaf), guessing 5160, what's the tempering temperature, and what's the quench?

Thanks,

Drew

Just look into the bigger tank. Go down to your local gas store (praxair, airco, etc) and rent the Hundred pounder. It costs about $25/yr with a five year lease, and then the price of the gas is the same as it is to fill the 20#er, maybe even a bit less per pound. When you gotta lay out that first $125 or so, it seems high, but trust me, it's well worth it.

I went to a hundred #er, not because my tank was freezing, but because the xxxx safety flow check wouldn't flow high enough to run my big four burner. Iceing was not uncommon on the 20# on my smaller two burner, tho

Agree with Woody and Bandicoot. Just because it isn't a Peter Wright doesn't mean it isn't useful, and it looks like you put a fair amount of effort into cleaning it up. It's a good size for demos, can be used on the floor for upsetting, or just set up as a backup. I started out with a chinaman anvil from a discounter, I now have a Vulcan. I mounted the chinaman on a lower block, and my kids have been using it ever since. The right height for them, and I'm the only one putting dings in my Vulcan.

Enco with the win, hands down. 1#: enco $10, msc $21, 5#: enco $40, msc $81.

Thanks

Thanks, guys. I checked MSC, but with Casenite rather than Kasenite. Will recheck, as well as Enco's, and post who's cheaper.

Looking for sources for casenite or other case hardening compounds, and some general guidelines for the process. I've recently made a couple of simple knives/letter openers from horse shoes, would like to treat to put a little tougher edge on. thanks.

I used some 2700 degree fireplace mortor to line my gas forge-- thinned it with a little water, then smeared it over the kaowool. It seems to work pretty well, a little brittle because it doesn't have a solid backing. It's also not resistant to liquid borax, that put a hole in it pretty quickly, though with a thicker layer, it might work pretty well. It's a xxxx of a lot cheaper than ITC, though I have been thinking of lining my forge with the ITC for it's reflective quality, to increase the heat in the core.

I agree with Swamp Fox, that's gonna be one heavy SOB with a 1/2" plate pan. You can get great results using 16ga sheet and never have a problem. I wouldn't think much about it if it was a stationary forge, but if you're gonna be moving it in and out, weight matters. As far as the blower goes, it probably will work just fine. It doesn't take alot of air to get the coals pretty hot (welding, even). Lots of air will let you heat things a bit faster, but you can also read that as "burn alot faster"

Apprenticeman:
Two words: Tire Hammer. Mine cost me $1K, and while it's rated as a 50#er, it hits like a 75#er. Love it.

I seem to recall some one talking about useing stoddy rods for resurfacing an anvil face. these are the rods used for hard facing cutting tools. basically, grind out the gouge, weld it in, with multiple passes if necessary, then grind smooth. good luck.

Anyone got any idea what the better lawnmower blades are made of? And what the temper temperature would be? I've got some blades, definately tool steel, that I need to straighten and then re-temper.

Thanx,

Clay Spencer is doing tire hammer workshops now, You can try to track him down and see about getting some input or plans. I've got one from the BAM workshop last november, works very nicely. If you're near central Missouri, I'd be happy to let you come out sometime and spec it out.

for anybody contemplating Damascus, the key is being a very consistent forge welder. So before you go using up any fancy stock, simply use that old scrap you've got laying around, and work on welding. You can stack it and practice with a billet, and guess what? all the mistakes that you'd get with expensive tool steel can be replicated with 1018.

BT

I'll keep that in mind. I've been toying with the idea of having an open forge one of these days. It's an opportunity for me to steal ideas from other practicing smiths. Will let you know when that happens.

Thanks for the quick replies. And I know that I'm overworking them but I can't resist just trying to tweek it just a little more. My problem is I'm trying to collar 1/4" round stock. Just need to pratice, sigh. There ain't no free lunch.

smitty

BT
Yeah, I'm up in Jeff City, been here for 3 yrs, was in Columbia in the late 90's. Are you a BAM member?

I just posted a sketch of a hold down that Don Nichols of BAM uses in the Gallery, can't figure out how to attach it to this post, so you'll have to go find it. It's not hard to make, and has the added advantage of having a cutoff plate built right in. I used extensively recently and am just trying to find the spare time to make my own. The picture is under anvil, labeled holddown. If you can't find it, email me and I'll send you a copy.


Whoops, as I scrolled down I think I figured out how to attach it to this post.

I posted a day or two ago, but don't see it now. 2 recommendations: Colonial Ironwork, by Don Plummer is a photo inventory of an incredible collection of just about every category. A great idea book for the traditionalist. The second book is The Iron Menagerie, by the Guild of Metalsmiths out of MN. It's a short, inexpensive how-to of animal heads, with good step by step pics of each head, and a line drawing section of all of the individual tools -- all easy to make. Speaking of which, Piehl forge down in Arizona now carries these punches, in S7, both individually and in sets. A tad pricey, but they looked pretty nice.

Colonial ironwork by Plummer is loaded with pics of colonial work, and is available from Centaur. It is a beautiful book, looks good on the coffee table. A great idea source, and I highly recommend it. This is the description from Centaur:

(Plummer) 256 pages, 505 photos. This authoritative reference on forged iron of the colonial period in America is not just for the historian or the collector, but for the artist blacksmith interested in the details of the hardware made during this time. The wrought iron collection of James C. Sorber is shown in 505 descriptive black and white photos, many of which depict multiple items with explanatory captions and dimensions. Also included is a list of blacksmiths' touch marks with the names of items on which they are found.

Don't know exactly what they're made of, the usual scrap finds. Recommendations for what kind of oil? I've heard you can use vegetable oil. Yes? No?

I'm using some bearings (a ball and a pin) to make some power hammer dies. I annealed successfully with vermiculite cooling, looking for suggestions for reharding-- air quench, water, oil, brine?