Bowland

That will take a good hammering for sure 

CWell at least you guys get the advantages of a lower value of sterling when your out for rekindling old trade deals with growing economies instead of those your constantly bailing water from 

Cheap anvils etc? Live in hope boys n girls. Chances of filling a shipping container in any reasonable period?  Not good 

4 hours ago, ianinsa said:

I don't know so much, I was there a couple of years ago true but getting 2 or 3 anvils and 2 fly presses to strap onto a pallet would seem very doable but then I'm a glass half full type of guy!  

Go for it but just don't anticipate a better deal once you pay for shipping and transport from the sellers to dock 

Workable anvil about £ 150 collected from seller a nice one up to £ 350

 Exchange rates will fluctuate for a few months till we get a new leader in place etc 

Well at least you guys get the advantages of a lower value of sterling when your out for rekindling old trade deals with growing economies instead of those your constantly bailing water from 

Cheap anvils etc? Live in hope boys n girls. Chances of filling a shipping container in any reasonable period?  Not good 

Thanks again. All good stuff John B obvious when thought through but easy to omit on my first build 

I think ( though I am not sure) it's a tool used for putting tacks in the soles of clogs etc. I lived close to an area here in Lancashire UK that was once over  the predominant area for making shoes - (when we had a poor working class and had a third of the world as our empire) once over and I have seen a lot of similar but not quite the same ( hence I am not 100%)  

The staff that did it were called clickers and they got paid piece work for thier labour 

Thanks JohnB and pictures as well! Yeah I was thinking a dump on the bottom. I left enough so I wasn't needing to dump until the end of the session.

The ratchet I get - good idea for sure. Is the danger running with too little air then breaking into the coal or what?  

The two square flanges with the pull out plate for the air choke look good to me.

My plan was always to put in that raised internal floor - what kind of min / max on that as regards the plate thickness? 

Also saw some cast iron heavy grid covers recent and wondered if I might source one the right size or one I might alter?  

Does the airflow still work if it's not centrally focused in the burn pile though? That's what I fear with a grid cover 

Thanks for taking the time, appreciated

I plan on putting in what amounts to a false floor in from heavy plate.  Deeper can be made shallower but shallow can't be made deeper was the way I figured it 

Learning process for me like I say 

2" sounds shallow but if it works for you why change

I work with this stuff. It's electro plated not galv the quality of zinc is slight and likely creates less hazard than the coal

 More Londoners were killed in a big coal smog post war in one winter than in the blitz of ww2 

Like I say first burn and I expect it will be gone.  It's relative and this forge is for outside use 

Galvanising is far more dangerous ( hot dip)  due to massively higher concentrations and have unfortunately seen the results  this in co- worker in the past.  I have to grind heavy sprue from the hot dip process weekly and I take those risks very seriously

Could we therefore leave this subject of electo plated m10 x 40 bolts? 

26 minutes ago, Charles R. Stevens said:

Not for a bottom blast forge, it would be over kill. 

Thought as much   thanks 

11 minutes ago, the iron dwarf said:

zinc plated bolts that will get hot

plain steel ones would be better

The zinc will burn off first proper burn and become plain steel ones 

I have about a day in it so far and every thing was from my " might come in handy pile" part of my fabrications company.  Flame cut by hand 

The paint is a bit overkill but I want it to start life looking nice ( remember it's for clients to see and I don't want them to know it's scrap pile built) 

The pipe is actually some 5 mm wall chs I had spare and rusted. Is it worth even considering water Cooling?  Not that I have quite figured out how yet!  

Decided to make a portable coal forge for added customer intrest at shows. Never done this before ( I use gas)  not worked on a coal forge for near three decades either - forgot so much!  

This is were I am up to trying to decide on were to divert excess air ( thinking in the horizontal directly in- line with flow? Via a sliding trap that I could pull or push from front end? 

I'm 

The fire pot is roughly a foot square by 6" deep made from.. 5 mm ( sorry I forget the imperial about 3/16?)  

Pipe is 2 1/2 bore.

I plan on putting in a heavy floor plate well slotted to heat centrally as this could be adjusted to suit situation?  

The pipe is flanged but I have no clinker breaker. I figured this was overkill? Couldn't I just rod is out down the vertical? 

Phone a few wedding planners?  All for keeping them out of that box thing mentioned though 

It's two nations separated by a common language I never knew the connotations of " flaming " from a US point but them again " scrumping" is to steal apples here and I think that had a total different meaning in your nation

Too many words in a buisness not good. Needs to be short,  sweet and memorable imo 

To me,  I. Need to walk 360 around the post vice when scrolling - this counts benches out

6013 will mix better than a 7018 lohy you will be doing a lot of grind then weld grind then weld as the interlayers float out 

Nothing will be truly structural after electric welding of proper wrought iron. Take care what you promise and take on 

Here is mine. 

Well said sanderson iron 

American sycamore must be different to ours here in the UK

 Because I cut it down regular for the Woodburner and it splits a dream when dry 

Nice stand looks good and stable 

Smiting is a thing that runs as part of my fabrication company

 It don't make much cash but gives me greater flexibility in what I do 

Tips for starters 

Read the box. Electrode positive or negative 

Find out the coldest it will light and work up

Keep a short arc length 

Wait till the puddle moves you on - font force it BBs show a high amperage keep a short arc the current rises as you lift away to a longer arc 

Clean your work of oils and grease before job weld 

Get a good connection on the return clamp

Always drag 

Dry run and work out how you get to a to b without stopping 

Never weld over slag 

Keep your head out the fumes and ventilate 

Always prop  your hand or arm if you can. If you can't keep your elbow tucked into your ribs 

If the rod lights and runs the rest is down to you - practice 

Good post thanks for making the effort

Lads need male role models in and out thier family. If they don't have them then they will find them - not always good ones 

Well done 

18 hours ago, ThomasPowers said:

Solid high carbon steel top sections are only hardened to a certain depth---prevents the anvil from breaking.  If you really want to learn about how anvils were made and you live in the USA go to your local public library and ILL "Anvils in America" by Richard Postman and read it!  Let me give you a hint: a couple of posts by random people on a web site does not take the place of 550 pages written by an expert.

There should be a like button for posts like this. So true 

Milk was at one time issued to welders working with galvanized parts in shipyards here in the UK. Along with a higher rate of pay while they were on the job

These days we have tight health and safety laws and inspections. The safety of workers has improved dramatically!  But we don't build many ships now - that's all going to nations who likely give thier guys milk and other faulse info to make profits 

I am glad the apprentice of today don't need put up with the risk and injury I did though 

The walk around thing is pretty darn handy scrolling on a big jig.

Most machinist vices are also cast leg vices forged - which breaks easiest?