smithatheart

h13 has to be worked where with full heat it all has to be the same other wise like all metals it will crack after time of heating and cooling cycles

i have a pw that is stamped 1,1,18 and it is stamped 79 on the feet does anyone know about the stamps on the feet the guy i bought it from got it from the carolinas it is stamped(chisseled) L H possibly liam hoffman but i havnt a clue

I recently picked up this beutiful anvil for 175 bucks its 142 lbs hardy hole is half inch it the edges are good with one small chip but my guess it was sitting in someone's garden because the bottom is heavily pitted and I found the forge weld seam right under the horn  and in two random places  there is a 3 if any one knows how old it is or what it's worth or possibly a brand 

I am building a new forge because my last one failed I am build ing my first fire pot will 2 inches deep safice or does it need to be deeper

i don't go fast i use a larger hammer so i can see where i swing but when i get tired i go to 1.5 then a 2 then 3 and i totally understand that it is heavy but my mentor told me when forging go slow and know my boundrys and know when to stop and i know when to stop i understand your point of view but thank you and now that i think i will start using a smaller hammer

thanks

well I'm different I have my own shop a chop saw a peter wright  and many tongs an no I am not lying and I'm not rich but I just work I buy and sell and save and I build my own tools .I have been welding since I was 10 and wood working since I was 5 so I grew up in a work shop and I basically grew up in a workshop btw I'm 13 the 13th                                

thanks buddy I appreciate it

On ‎4‎/‎9‎/‎2016 at 3:14 AM, Frosty said:

Well alright! I'll be less cryptic and stop messing with you. At this point a few things just don't matter even though a lot of people spend a LOT of time and energy trying to find out. How old a tool is only really counts to antique dealers and collectors. What make isn't much more important. THE important question is can it be used. At your age even a cast iron anvil shaped object will serve just fine. Honest it will

Now you need a HOT fire, a hammer or two and something to cut with. At your age I recommend you NOT use a hammer heavier than 2lbs. 1 1/2 lbs is a better max for now. As your skill improves you'll be able to use heavier hammers without injuring yourself. Any smoothe face hammer will work just fine, ball peins and cross peins are excellent balcksmithing hammers but for a start ANY smooth faced hammer will do just fine.

A cold chisel will cut HOT steel easily but you'll need a glove to protect your hand. OR you can wrap some 1/4" rd. steel around it for a handle. Making your own tools is one of a blacksmith's rewards for learning the craft. A hack saw is an excellent option, it's easy, precise and you don't cook one hand even a little using one.

Use long pieces of stock at first so you don't need tongs. Not using tongs helps a lot because it's harder to hold things in tongs. Once you've developed more skill is a good time to start fighting with tongs and making the darned things.

Stick with us it'll be my genuine pleasure to help you learn the craft, I'll even keep the jokes down. Wait a second you might like jokes! Do you like puns?

Frosty The Lucky.

and I'm sorry but I like a heavy hammer most of my work is with a 4 lb hammer and a 3 lb it is just what I prefur like I strike with a 12 lb hammer

does any one know how long peter wright has been around I have always wonderd because I have a 158 lb peter wright and it has a small horn a wide face and I looks older

I cant put a photo because of reasons but I am not the most descriptive person and I'm 12 so yeahh

yeah probably a good idea

when I started blacksmithing I bough a hundred pound cast anvil that had no markings and it looked like a Vulcan in shape but I am not sure about the brand if any one could shed any light on it that would be great

when I started blacksmithing I bough a hundred pound cast anvil that had no markings and it looked like a Vulcan in shape but I am not sure about the brand if any one could shed any light on it that would be great

you got it but it will be 20 inches long   thanks

well will a forge with no fire pot work

I have been making a forge and I have been thinking my plan was to be a flat bottom and the air comes from the bottom without a fire box but I don't know if I need a fire pot but just have a flat bottom and the width on the inside be 8 inches wide with fire bricks on the side and just stack the coal higher but I think it will work but my biggest comcern is can I work 1.5 inch rounds with it

I think you over burnished your hammer

I think the horn is not worn out it is just a ferrier style because you need a horn like that for shoeing but don't take it from me

does anyone know if a one inch thick plate would be ok for a striking anvil for when im doing shows I am not going to forge huge hammers with it but just small things like small axes small hammers

I have a 153 lb peter wright anvil and it is different to most peter wrights I have seen its face is 4.5 inches it just looks different if any of you could shed any light on it that would be great