Pancho07

Thanks Steve 

Ive been asked to make some beads for a semi local artist and was wondering if anybody had a formula to figure out the starting size of a disc for various sized beads, ie diameter of a disc to make a 1/2 inch diameter bead out of 22, 20 , or 18 ga sheet, we haven’t decided on a thunk was yet. I know that with alittle time I could figure it out the long way but I don’t want to waste the materials and I’m not great with math. I can follow a formula but coming up with one is out of my league, thanks in advance 

Mr sells, apologies, I waffled for a while between where I put it and the alchemy forum but figured finishes were finishes. Thank you for the move.

Special, Marc and Slag, thank you for the input I was a touch too hasty when I posted and should have updated after. I had seen that the wiki definition after I posted but life got in the way. That being said I only had had experience with vinegar and steel and didn’t know what it would do to other materials though I figured it would be mild enough. Got an answer on a FB gearmakers forum and they are bubbling away tonight.

I’ve got a set of spurs that I’m repairing and refinishing for a guy, that are either browned or rusted. He wants them blued so I had planned to just dunk them in vinegar overnight to strip the rust off of them and clean them up before I do any repairs on them but I know nothing about the silver that is on them. 

If the vinegar just causes the silver to tarnish then that isn’t a big deal but they are not tarnished now so I’m guessing that it won’t tarnish from the vinegar I just don’t want it to get pitted. 

Thanks George.

42 minutes ago, Ranchmanben said:

Those look great! Did you build everything yourself?

I started on a set of spurs to give to the lady for Christmas and all was going well until I forgot to temper one of the rowels after I hardened it. Look like I’ll get them done just in time for Valentine’s Day. 

Here’s the desired result, although not finished and the other one  

 

Kinda sorta not really. I bought all of the pieces from a water jet company. I made the rowels but figured for the first couple sets I could cheat alittle bit. I did bend the bands in the forge. Just used 10 gauge mild for the rowels, if they wear out too soon we’ll try something different.

10 minutes ago, ThomasPowers said:

just in time for Christmas!

Yessir

Thanks Tubal, I’m pretty pleased as far as a first attempt goes. Here’s hoping the guy they’re made for loves them too.

Well these are a long ways from perfect but here’s the first set that I finally got done yesterday.

I’m going to just fill the top an bottom divot to hide it. It will probably eventually wear through but I’m not too worried about it after a normal wear in period.

I’ll put one up this weekend I’m planning on doing another pass with the file first though. Asked him what finish he wanted and said to leave them silver so that will make things easier, just fill in and polish.

I just opened that side up some more and while not perfect looks a lot better

Spurs are generally self cleaning I think.

Here’s what I’m working with. I’m thinking I might be able to just cut that back to the back of the divot and be good. That side is too thick anyway. Took a step back and I don’t think it’s as bad as I thought it was last night.

I spose that’s one way of looking at it haha. My biggest worry is I’m already losing money time wise. I just had an idea though, fill the divot and wrap the shanks in copper with some decorative ingraving on it. Then the fill won’t show up at all.

That’s basically what I’m planning on doing I’m just wondering if the mig/tig filler will show up after I blue them. 

I’m building a set of spurs for a local guy and made a stupid mistake on one of the shanks. Wen I was cutting the towel slots I tried to speed tings up by drilling out as much as I could and got one of the holes way out of line( the rest were cut with a hacksaw). This may be a moot point if he wants them left silver but if he wants them blued I’m wondering how much that spot will show up if I fill the divot in with the tig or mig welder and grind it back smooth. It’s not huge but if I leave it it will be noticeable. I’m not averse to making a new shank but would rather not if I can avoid it

Sorry I didn't use the search, I've never had much luck with them on this or any forum so I usually don't bother. I also forget that this farriers section is here.

As I've moved away from smithing and more into  gear making I got a request that ought to get me back into the forge. I was asked to make at least 1 set of spurs. I talked to a former gear maker at a ranch rodeo tonight and he said to use 4140 for bands and shanks, he however never really got into the spur making and has been "out" of business for a few years. Are there any gear makers here and what steel do they use? What do I need to know before I dive in this winter?

Thanks thomas, my googlefu is not strong so I never can find what I want or give up before I get down to the right post. I just don't know much about the chemical/alchemical properties of stainless other than there are a bunch of them. I'll give that a shot

As some have seen I've been making buckles and dressing up yeti type cups and I have been struggling with how to put a makers mark on them. The buckles can be stamped but the tumblers are alittle more difficult. My first idea had been to cut a tag of copper stamp on my company and the date but was told that that looked terrible so I've been trying to think of a better way. As I was pulling wire on a new fence just now I got to thinking about acid etching and wondered if anyone knew of a relatively inexpensive way to etch the bottoms of these. According to the place I get them they are 18/10 stainless. 

As always thanks in advance, pancho

Thanks frosty, do I need to attempt to temper or leave it alone after the quench?

These are the best that I could do for the moment. That bend may not be real visible and I just noticed a crack in the blade, I think the crack should be a fairly easy fix if I can get the thing retreated I just don't know how to go about that on this unknown steel. The brand name has been worn off

After the fire we have a shovel that either was work weakened or annealed and has a bend in it and just curves into the ground. I would like to try to hammer out the bend and retreat it. How should I go about doing that or should I be wasting my time? If it can't be done no big deal but this shovel has been through heck and back with my wife so we would like to resurrect it but if it becomes a "useless" wall hanger that's fine

5 hours ago, Frosty said:

I like it Pancho, looks pretty darned good. Have you tried "tinning" the copper with solder then placing it and heating the main body of the piece? It doesn't leave solder to clean up around the applique.

Frosty The Lucky.

That's what I was doing or trying to do but I'm fairly unpracticed with this application. The blobs in the second picture I just ground off and I figure since I'm going to leave this buckle "bright" unless I'm showing it to someone nobody should really notice it.

I think the engraving would look better if I not only had more practice but also better gravers. The ones I used were ones that I had made and were pretty crude.

And thanks guys

It's a long ways from good but I like it so far