WELD

That's kind of what i was getting at for a shape, not sure what that would be called other than more oval than round. I wanted my height and width to be between 10 and 12" with that oval shape so theres no corners to disrupt circulating heat. It seems like a pretty efficient design.

wow thanks, these are all some good points and thats why i ask now, because i I would like to get the design as close to what i want the first time around if possible. I have a pretty good idea of what i will be using it for and time is precious and if i can eliminate the building several forges in a few years part i would like to do that. What I have in mind is a smaller ribbon style burner with about a 10-12" diameter(possibly more oval than round) chamber with a flat surface towards the bottom with good amount of insulation surrounding it all. I really like the brick table idea for figuring out a size i know which suits me best. And now I am thinking that Instead of building a one size forge or even a dedicated table to put the bricks on, maybe If i make a rigid/adjustable arm coming off my wall that will hold the burner and just use my workbench to stack bricks right on it would save some time and space. And at the least get me hammering sooner than later.

Thanks Vaughn, i never really researched the ribbon style. def seems the way to go. Wayne great link, thanks a bunch. lots of good reading on your website, good job. also thanks for the advise on the detector. I will def get one. Let the build begin ha. But before i start a design I have a few other questions. Any advantage to a round vs square chamber or flat bottom with rounded top(pizza oven) What's a good size chamber to aim for? I would say the majority of what i would like to do is build axes. But blades and artwork type stuff are not out of the question. I've decided im going with a ribbon style, does the entry angle of the burner effect how it heats the metal? do i want flames directly at my workpiece or directed away? it seems most of the ribbon styles i'm seeing it is pointed away just a bit. Is it worth designing a pass through or back door for the forge, or will i most likely not need it? only thing i think of is if i were going to work the center of a long piece. How hot would you say the outside of the forge may get at its hottest? this will effect material i chose for the shell. i've got some cool stuff around i may use. So, Chamber shape Chamber size angle of entry of ribbon one opening or pass through outside temp -Tony

Finally getting my shop setup to start hammering but need to address one missing item of my arsenal. The heat source. I'm working inside a 20x24 shop with low ceilings and i try to keep the doors and windows shut for heat retention most days. So i am figuring a gas forge will be the cleanest and most efficient way for me to go. it also seems the easiest to stow. I am a full time machinist/welder and have a full shop here at my disposal for building myself a forge so having the tools to do so isn't a question. But when i look around online I see lot of single and double burner forges i can purchase for only a few hundred dollars depending on sizes and brands. But then i start reading about the different styles, square edge vs round, insulation types and dangers of insulation fibers. brick vs clay etc. With all these options and variables and not knowing enough about it from experience i ask of those with more experience. Is it worth buying one over building one? if so what would YOU get/look for if you had a choice? Is there a decent enough source for all the materials i need to build my own like stuff from Mcmastercarr? What design/dimensions would you go for? are there plans available somewhere that are worth copying? I read about certain burners needing certain cubes to work with or they won't burn clean. how do i know this if i build my own? Thanks in advance! -Tony

Thanks for that guys. I guess i will run a wire brush over her and start hammering some steel. Are there ways to identify an anvil's make if it doesn't have any markings on it anywhere? -Tony

MA in USA. sorry didn't realize how worldly we were here but after reading more posts i am realizing this. Thanks, So if i were to re-face i thought i would just fly cut it on the bridgeport till it cleans up, which would cost me nothing but my time. I have access to a surface grinder that i could finish it flush too. Would this be a bad way to go about it? The face is a good 1/8" difference from the lowest point to the highest. so a good amount of material would need to come off to clean up.I thought maybe welding a piece on top or build it up with weld. not sure the best route to go on that front.

Hi everyone, Tony here from MA. I'm here for two reasons. 1.I Just recently pulled a pile of blacksmith's tools and stuff out of storage and i want to learn to use them. 2.I collect axes (functional axes) and i would like to feed my own addiction by learning to forge my own styles. I've been a welder/fabricator for 15 years now, about 5 of them i would call apprentice years. Machinist background and certified welder in aluminum, titanium, stainless and a multitude of other non ferrous metals also. I run a small hobby shop from my home garage and already have some metal working equipment including my miller syncrowave250, millermatic200, cold chop saw, 6" belt sander with 12" wheel, 20ton press, CNC plasma cutter, hand plasma, bench grinders, benchtop lathe and bridgeport. as a newb to the forum and blacksmithing I have a few questions right off the bat. What additional tools/machines should i be searching for to have an efficient and pleasurable time learning the art? Maybe offer some tips for softening the learning curve? here is a picture of my anvil and some of the stuff that came with it. What is all this stuff anyways?! haha Is this anvil useable the way it is or should i plan to resurface or replace the top? what do you suppose this anvil was used for given all of the checking on the feet and punch marks on the main body? Thanks in advance, and i look forward to learning more about the art. -Tony