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I Forge Iron


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Posts posted by Rasper77

  1. There is a product for finishing wooden salad bowls.... called "Wooden salad bowl finish" of all things (don't remember manufacturer or brand name)... its a heavy urethane with a lot of preserving oil... it is food safe... I don't know how it does on steel.... but I been thinking about trying it on iron ware I want to eat drink out of..

    good luck and send pics

    Its envirotex and there are a few other brands.
    We coat our horns with it and 5 years later still good.
    Not sure how well it would attach to metal.. I would sand it a bit first.
    Might work.
  2. I hear there made from mild steel, and sometime tool steels.
    If you dont know, try a spark test.
    If its mild water/salt water would probaly work, if its a higher grade probaly oil
    You need to figure out what it is first.

    That would be my understanding, someone correct me if im wrong.

  3. Most of my skill is with wood and Ide have to say im a husky man myself.
    I love working with wood, but hope to get my metal working up to par with it.
    Mixing the two is the best of both worlds.
    And nothing but good comes from it.

    I too want to see a keyhole cut with a chainsaw..
    Then teach me how to do it:D

  4. No need to heat treat it, especialy if your using mild steel..


    I am wondering about the spring you made. Did you need to heat treat it. I have never made a spring before.

    I purhased a postvise at an estate sale several years ago for $10. While I was paying, a man walked up and asked how much it sold for. He then went on to tell the seller it was worth $100. The seller said "well, its been here for two weeks and no one wanted it." I offered to let the new guy buy it for $100 but of course he declined. I was very happy with the $10 deal.

    Another vise is available without a spring. That is why I am asking about how you made the spring.
  5. I might try that.. Its a simple, low cost idea..
    And it dont get that cold here.

    I built a wooden box lined with that foil covered foam insulation that fits over the anvil with about 4 inches of air space all of the way around. I also cut out two pieces of plywood that fit around the base of the anvil and covered them with the same foam insulation. I have a 60 watt ceramic reptile heat emitter that I mounted through a hole in the top of the box to point down on the face of the anvil.
    Check them out here Heat Emitters. it draws only a little more power then a 60 watt light bulb.
    It keeps my anvil warm not hot and last year in my shop (unheated) I had temps at -15 degrees
    My shop is in the woods in a low spot and in the winter it does not get sun until around 1:00 pm. Lets put it this way this time of year I hang deer and game in my shop and they keep as if in a meat locker.
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