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I Forge Iron

belargehair

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Posts posted by belargehair

  1. A 5' long, 12" wide blade would be difficult to pick up let alone "swing it around for a while".

    I agree with oakwoodforge and Tom P.

    If it's for Cosplay style stuff, there is tons of info out there on display only weaponry.

  2. Someone in my area has posted 3 pictures on a buy/sell site of a machine he got in an auction. Here's the link.
    Does Anyone Know What this Machine is ???????
    He is unsure of what the machine does. It looks like a bender maybe, with a foot treadle.

    He has this to say..
    "I am not sure what this machine is used for. I purchased it at an auction along with some Blacksmith equipment. The handle on it has a set of gears the moves the center section. The piece in the middle is made of 1/4 inch brass and does not look like it was ever sharpend, so it don't think it was used to cut anything. Let me know what you think......"

    Thought you folks would have a few opinions!

  3. I'm a big fan of lists. I work an office job through the week, and I don't get out to the garage very often until the weekend. I torture myself all week by making lists of things I'd like to make or do, then by the time the weekend hits, I have about 2 months worth of "to do's" .
    Aim high I guess.

  4. In the book "The Complete Modern Blacksmith" By Alexander G. Weygers, there is a section on making files, though he states "It is not difficult to make a fairly crude file, but handmade files cannot compete with machine-made industrial ones."
    He shows how he makes files from high carbon steel. He anneals it, makes the groves with a cold chisel (at the proper angle for the particular file) then harden.

    Haven't tried it myself.

  5. When I worked at a steel fab shop (mostly bridges) we were required to brace any thin gauge materials before galving. Mostly things like troughs. The fellas would tack weld on a few cross braces, and nip them off later.
    Other options we tried were spray galv (spray cans) and metalizing (expensive).
    Metalizing was pretty neat, it was like powder coating but with metal.

  6. Disclaimer: I'm still new at this addiction.

    Nowhere near dull red. More like hot water hot? Wow, that's a bad explanation. My anvil is a Princess Auto ASO, similar to HF standards I believe. Soft as butter when I got it, so I'm not afraid of harming the anvil at this point.

    But wait.. wouldn't placing anything at forging temp draw the temper out of the face?

    Sorry topic twisting...

  7. One thing that has helped me, as I usually use small stock, is to preheat the anvil with a chunk of 1"x4"x4" steel. When I first light the forge, I throw the chunk in the fire. Once the forge is up and running, I place the mighty hot chunk of steel on the face of my anvil. The anvil will draw less heat out of the work piece this way, more beats per heat!

  8. Looks similar to what I buy at Rona, Canadian Tire or Superstore. It works for me. I even got a weld using it. I pay about $1 per kg. Expensive way to buy it but it keeps my car clean and faster than making a batch over the weekend.

  9. What i did to "dump" some of the air from my blower (converted Shark Vacuum) was just to drill some holes in the pipe leading to the fire pot. I also slit the pipe and slid a little piece of tin into the pipe to act as a gate valve.

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