Harry Marinakis

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Posts posted by Harry Marinakis


  1. On ‎11‎/‎14‎/‎2016 at 2:06 PM, Steve Sells said:

     If that is a major problem for anyone, then I can only suggest you talk to Glenn about your perceived rights on HIS server.

    I have no perceived rights, and as I said your advice will be heeded


  2. On ‎11‎/‎13‎/‎2016 at 10:50 AM, Steve Sells said:

    Congrats Harry, please watch the language.

    My, we have vastly differing standards of what is and what is not appropriate language. Worlds apart. I certainly won't talk about my bxxxxd files that I used on this blade. But your advice will be heeded.


  3. Beautiful and creative.

    Did you pick those woods because of similar expansion/shrinkage?

    I did something similar with birch and walnut. After about 6 months, due to uneven expansion/shrinkage between the birch and walnut, a noticeable lip formed between the layers. I had to sand the handle smooth again.

     


  4. My second forged knife, a hunting blade made for my nephew.

    Ingredients

    -O1 tool steel

    -Snakewood

    -Brass

    -Blood

    It's a stout blade, 3/16" at the spine.

    The handle is a solid piece of snakewood. I drill a large hold in the handle, fill it with epoxy putty, and stuff the tang into the hole. That way I don't have to drill the hole to fit the tang perfectly.

    I threw in a couple of brass pins just to make sure the blade was secure on the handle.

    I don't know whether or not he likes gut hooks, but he got one anyway. It can be sharpened with a standard 1/4-inch chainsaw file.

    Now gotta make a sheath for the knife.

    FullSizeRender.jpg


  5. I hesitate to ask this question because I have no idea what steel I am using, but maybe it will generate some interesting discussion anyway.

    I made a knife and it warped and twisted very badly in multiple planes during the hardening quench.

    Here's the story: I inherited a table saw and a few dozen circular saw blades that are all from the 1960s. So I decided to make a round knife for leather working, using a circular saw blade as the steel. All went well until the hardening quench. It ended up warped, twisted and disfigured.

    I made a new knife, but went very slowly with the cutting and grinding to be sure that the steel never got hot, so I wouldn't have to harden/temper.

    So... How do you prevent warping during the hardening quench when your blade is 0.07 inches thick?

     


  6. 1 hour ago, jmccustomknives said:
    1 hour ago, jmccustomknives said:

    Keep your next blades simple.

     

    Good idea. I'm glad this knife broke, I was very unhappy with the way it turned out, and it was going to be a gift. Now I can start again with a better (simple) design which I know that I can do nicely. I got a lot of experience filing and grinding and fiddling.

    I'm going to keep playing with O-1 until I learn it well.

    I've tried the soft back draw, but no matter how slow I try it, the blade goes from shiny polished steel to black and then orange if I hold it on the heat too long (waiting for "straw" to appear). I never see any other colors, let alone "straw."

     


  7. This is/was my 2nd knife. I used O-1 tool steel. The design didn't seem very complicated on paper, but it sure was a P.I.T.A. trying to cut and file. It's going to have a brass bolster and handle made from snakewood. 

    Hardened in oil and then tempered at 400 degrees F for 4 hours.

    My first test of the knife was dropping it onto the concrete floor and - voilà. I guess it was just knife-shaped object.

    Next time I will temper longer, and I've come up with a simpler way to make the blade - I'm going to give it a whittle tang instead of the scale tang.

    13391592_1202164166494301_4238496942279177949_o.jpg


  8. On ‎5‎/‎17‎/‎2016 at 11:45 PM, ThomasPowers said:

    Do you really need that much water around? 

    I do a lot of other work in the shop - a lot of grinding - and I need the tub to cool off the pieces so that I can hold onto them when they're too small to hold in the vice. Even with welding gloves the metal can get too hot to hold.


  9. On ‎4‎/‎19‎/‎2016 at 10:52 PM, Firestarter said:

    How many actual anvils (not RR track or harbor freight specials) are within a 5 hour drive on your Craigslist right now? That would be a deciding factor for me. That one would be worth a couple hours of driving to check out if I didn't have an anvil.

    Exactly.