keykeeper

Some good ideas coming out for you. All are good, and teach basic smithing skills. Hooks, candleholders, etc.

I tried one of the blueprints here a while back, and found I really liked making these.

BP0110 Hearts from Horseshoes

They involve some basic skills, and can be used as parts to other projects. The ladies really like them, just to hang on the wall. My significant other wraps them with leather lace, through the holes, making a hanging loop for decorative purposes. If you live in an area that is populated with horse-people, these are great sellers and gifts for friends into the whole horse scene.

The best part is, for most people, is the availability of stock for making them. Find a farrier near you, befriend them, and you will have more than enough stock to work with!

I also use the old horseshoes to make plant hooks for peoples decks. Ever straighten an old horseshoe? Very good practice at hand/eye skills, just to get one straightened out. Then you have a nice flat piece of barstock, with decorative holes already applied! Also, the basic "keg" shoes are really mild steel, easily shaped and forged.

Your mileage may vary, but I really enjoy working with these.

Most of all, have fun with what you are doing.

Guilty on the hacksaw. Cannot wait to get my 4 x 6 bandsaw. I think my shoulder will thank me for it.

I plan on doing some larger crosses, also. Just getting to heat something up in the forge today was a treat for me. I gave the little cross some texture with a small ball pein, and since I didn't know the cut measurements off the top of my head, I had to hot cut a little off of each arm, to make the proportion right. But, oh well, things happen.

I also did a little dressing on each arm with hammer and anvil, and a little hot filing, before the texturing.

Next time I'll do a little more planning and measuring, before cutting.

Got some forge time today and have been wanting to make a cross. Here's what I came up with. I didn't know the measurements off the top of my head, so I winged it. Not bad for my first one, eh?

Looks like that section of the bar would be upset quite a bit, then forged carefully using the edges of the anvil while holding the bar at about 45 degrees. Would be a lot like forging a ball on the end of a bar, without all the forging down of the points. Except that the top and bottom angles would have to be carefully shaped. That's how I would go about it by just anvil and hammer.

Now, in a perfect world, with plenty of tools available, I think I would upset the section, and use a top and bottom swage to form the angles needed. Just keep turning the bar until the upset reaches the shape and size desired, and the taper back to the original size that you want.

That would be easiest way, in my still learning, quite the noobie opinion.

Those 2 little helpers are cute. Now think about this: Where did the zinc go that you burned off the tub? Air? Water Supply? TO THE KIDS? It's never gone, just vaporized and redistributed somewhere else.

Lose the tub, the zinc is probably not all gone, although it may appear to be. I hate to repeat what the others have said, but safety is everyone's first concern here.

Nuff said on that. Now:

You have a nice start, keep up the good work, and be safe. Nice anvil, also. You might want to try the electrolytic rust removal process on it, does a real good job. There's a blueprint on it here: I Forge Iron - Blacksmithing and Metalworking

Welcome Chuck!

Feel free to ask all the questions you want, but before you do, there are literally days of reading with all the posts, archives, blueprints, etc. to go through. Join us on Tuesday evenings for the live blueprint sessions.

And feel free to share what you know, as well!

Again, Welcome to IFI.

-aaron c.

Classic rock and sometimes.....ready for this...... Heavy METAL!

It's Not a top ten list, but this has been covered, and posted, before.

Read this: You Might Be A...

Welcome, Bob, from West Central WV! I have read some of your posts here, and all of them seem very helpful. Feel free to share all the knowledge you want to!

I might have to come up there sometime and take you up on that free teaching offer, you are really not that far away from here.

Join us for the Tuesday Night Blueprint session, if you haven't already.

You might also check out the Appalachian Blacksmith Association, great group of guys there. They meet twice a year here in my hometown. Pretty good time there, spring and fall.

Appalachian Blacksmiths Association

You loan out that Big Buck? I just need it to watch my Brother In Law drool.:D

Being as it is for an attorney, a very heavy paperweight of some sort.

Always a lot of wind blowin' in lawyers offices.:D

Adhesive........

No problem Pete, 'tis what I'm here for!!

Honestly though, the marvel oil is good stuff. I have read posts here on IFI tauting it's use, and tried some myself. There's several members here that seem to mention it like it is an old friend, so that's why I tried it.

Locally for me, there is the Captain Wally's house of Chinese imports (WalMart) which has it, as Finn said, in the auto section.

I also have found it at auto parts stores, dollar stores (Dollar General), and some hardware stores. At most auto parts suppliers, you can get it in a gallon tin can, which using it like I do, would last for years. A little goes a long way.

Great stuff, I use it to keep my anvil rust free, just a quick wipe when done forging, good to go next time.

It has been my experience when using vinegar to remove rust, that as soon as any cleaning, brushing, etc. is finished, that a quick spray of Gunk Liquid Wrench will protect the item from flash rust. I also sometimes use Marvel Mystery Oil, just a quick wipe with a rag lightly saturated with it works. Great when cleaning old tools. Seems like the Marvel has a more pleasant aroma that the Liquid Wrench, though. Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF) is a good oil for this, also.

Your Mileage May Vary......

aaron

"Eastbound and down..........."

Acorns: I would just modify the Bill Epps chili pepper method that uses the black iron pipe. Shorten it up without as much taper, would look like an acorn. I would think 1/2" pipe would make a nice little acorn. After its formed, use a dremel or file to put on the texture for the cap.

-aaron c.

Got some new DVD's, the usual skivvies, t-shirts, etc. etc.

Wife hooked me up with a set of new drill bits for the drill press. (Sniff, love that woman!)

But my mother-in-law really shocked me:o--leather welding/blacksmithing apron, welding gloves, and rod holder set; locking welding clamp, several large carabiner clips for hanging tools, and a set of transfer punches. (which was everything I had circled in the Habba Flate ad, and I was planning on going to pick up at the next available chance!)

Tools under the tree ROCK!!

-aaron

Mooch.........

Freeloader! -----

absorbtion..........

That would explain why my compass never works correctly until I'm away from the shop....LOL.

rotate..................

Wow, that's some impressive work. Feel free to share tips, tricks, etc on your damascus. Simply stunning patterns. I'm speechless.

The website design in excellent, easy to navigate, and some good browsing to be had there.

aaron c.

Welcome aboard, Jerry! Don't forget to join us on Tuesday night in the Blueprint chat. Always something good coming out of there, in the way of projects, tools, etc.

Enjoy your stay, don't forget to post your questions as there is literally hundreds of years of experience on IFI just waiting to help out the new guys!

aaron c.

I stand corrected, and humbled. Thanks for clearing it up. Still don't trust wikipedia, though.