PCornett

Maybe you are correct, but not as much fun. This stuff is my sudoku. 

TP, even w/o muscles I broke it but I think that was more due to the drill sitting out in a field for years and rusting from inside out...

Frosty, the collar that moves up and down the threaded rod is chipping out from rust on the inside. Looks great on outside but chips away up at top where the wheel is attached. I need to remove that collar to get a new one machined.

TP, even w/o muscles I broke it but I think that was more due to the drill sitting out in a field for years and rusting from inside out...

Frosty, the collar that moves up and down the threaded rod is chipping out from rust on the inside. Looks great on outside but chips away up at top where the wheel is attached. I need to remove that collar to get a new one machined.

First off, this pic was grabbed off net cause I am at work and cant find a pic on any device I have with me. 

Now, after five years I have finally gotten the $15 auction find 616 free and spinning. Unfortunately, the top threaded bar and collar( that control the vertical motion) have rusted somewhat so I will have to get new ones machined. Problem is I cant get the collar that connects to the drill shaft to move. Is there something I am missing or am I just not using my manly muscles? 

 

The first light did fill the room to begin with until the high sulphur smoke burned off and the cole started coking then it started to go out. I will have to light another fire to find out if the blower I am planning on using is good enough by itself. Def keeping my eyes open for stove pipe. Thanks for all the suggestions. 

Thanks a lot bigb. I didnt think it looked that bad and I cant afford much better. Took me 3 years of scrapping/scrounging to make this.

Another angle inside. And to Ridgeway, I am planning on closing in those eaves soon but putting in a drawing fan on NE corner. With?l let you know soon. Starting a fire tomorrow. 

 

 

Here is the newest and "finished" pics. 

These are some further pics of the shop. I am using Wonderboard (concrete panels) as a fire retardant in the corner where the forge will be.  (Second pic.)

I understand everyone's apprehension of the frame. The pallets were lag bolted together Then attached to 4x4 posts at the corners. The ironic thing about the city codes is that if I build a "permanent" building I have to follow some strict codes (since the Joplin tornado of '11) A temporary building is not covered under code. When I have some money to put on the roof, a 2x4 will be put across every wall and screwed in to the wall and the 4x4 posts. 2x4s will be used for a roof support. Plywood sheet and then probably tin sheet. I have the plywood already. Cement board for under tile work will be put up in the forge corner to lessen chance of fire. This all being built this way because I dont have 2k for a shed or even 500 for the lumber to build my own. 

These two photos are the first with the four walls up. Been collecting pallets from a Sherwin Williams paint store for about a year now. I ALWAYS asked permission before hauling them home. I used lag bolts to bolt them together in the best pattern I could to get walls approximately the same height. The dimensions came out to 10' x 7' x 10.4' x 8'. So rhomboidal but hey its four walls. The smooth wall in the second picture is covered in some disassembled crates I traded for two years ago. The roof will have to wait until after Christmas but at least the walls are up and I can start doing small things in the mean time. My only cost so far has been less than $50 in screws of various size from deck screws to Lag bolts. 

Found this at a yard sale this morning for $5. offered $2 and accepted. Have no idea what it was but as soon as I thread a stake for my hardy Its going to be my new mandrel. 

This is literally tiny compared to the last few finds  but here goes. I wondered how common these mini grinders were in this size. The wheel is 2.5" diameter. Got it for free from local feed store along with a tiny Stanley lathe tool and an older wrench of unknown origins.

http://www.tolkien.ro/text/JRR%20Tolkien%20-%20Smith%20of%20Wootton%20Major.pdf

I just got these this week at rummage sale for 20.00 could not pass it up
Not sure about the drill thing but the man says they go together an have same name

 

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I bought  a Buffalo Forge No 616 about a year ago at an auction for $25. Looked decent shape but obviously had sat outside in grass and was rusted. it would not turn so I tried electrolysis on it and that didn't do it so now a year later I have a new plan. I don't have time to pend on this thing so I have mounted it up on my shed wall and oiled every joint and shaft opening that I could see. I then filled up the divot up at the top where the elevation wheel is to the brim.with motor 30W. I am asking for opinions about whether you think this will even work ( and time is not a problem at this pont, I can keep filling it this way for the next six months) or do I need to use the gallon of WD40 like some else suggested. Appreciate all answers. 

JTF, came back to reference the size and realized I had never posted a thank you. I appreciate your time. Hope to find that third wheel about the time I get t his drill broke over. Thanks again. Also mine  has that same metal mounting plate.Will post pics soon hopefully.

Eddie and JTF, I have a 616 also. I bought about a year ago for $25US at a farm auction. It had been sitting outside in weeds for a while and it still needs to be lubed to point of working. It did have one piece missing however. The small gear for hand crank, and I have no dimensions that I can find for it anywhere. Would either of you be able to measure and let me know? I would like to buy one some day but dont think I am going to carry around with me till I find one. Thanks ...

The old drill press at work broke down and I couldn't get parts for it so we scrapped it. I used the base to mount my post vise and I'm thinking of using the motor for a power hammer or belt sander.

TJ, my wife got me a knife making DVD for Christmas that used a drill press as a leather sewing tool. The needle goes in the chuck and the spring system is used to press through leather. Even if chuck is broke can attach needle. Some manner of "creative thinking".

Thank you Bstrong. I do plan on posting pics but life got hectic and just haven't had time. Maybe this week...
Btw, what year is the catalog you are using?

Jacques, any thoughts of quenching swords?

Ric, now that the program is on Netflix, do you get a penny everytime someone watches it? Probably not but you would be getting rich off the number of times I have went back and watched your stuff.

 

So I bought a 616 last week for $23 and it needs  a little work sure, but in looking at it I noticed that there was a third drive shaft with no gear on and didn't seem necessary and now looking online I see a third gear in this spot. Its not the gear attached to the flywheel and its not the big gear attached to the main shaft which has the handle through it. So what is this small gear for. Would like to restore it but not going any farther until I know Im not beating my head against a brick wall.

Thanks in advance for your time....

I was wondering how many ways guys had come up with to adapt the standard 1/2" bit socket on post drills to take modern larger bits. Just bought a Buffalo Forge 616 and so now it is my new project for a while.

I just bought a Buffalo Post Drill 616 at auction for $22 and now am in the middle of busting rust and taking apart to put back together. However, I don't have a big shop and so do most work out in the yard. Was wondering if any of the Faire/Rendezvous/Historical Recreation Smiths have any stand setups for taking your full size post drills with you on the road. Thanks.