Correy Smith

Mikey, Frosty. Many thanks for your advice. Yes, removing the brick might be a huge help. Honestly it takes about an hour or more for the brick to heat up, its obviously a huge heat thief. I'll pull the tip and see what size it is. The interior of the forge is pretty small, about 5" diameter by 10 long. I think I can intentionally achieve a neutral atmosphere. I definitely can see the difference in regards to scale lol. feels like I have more vent than needed. The choke isn't long enough to cover all the holes and the gap around the mig tip draws quite a bit of air itself. I think the forge manufactures videos are pretty old and only really show his base model. I can't imagine not having the refractory. I'm sure I would catch something on the insulation and rip it will it was hot. Thanks for the advice guys much appreciated. Correy

Hi Mikey. In general, how much fuel can you push into a forge? I may just be timid. I have only put 15psi a couple of times it seemed like a lot of excess burn out the door. Im still getting a grip with adjusting the air to fuel. It seems after the forge is hot it burns differently than when warming up. I assume the more fuel you put in you would also have to open the air choke ? Is there a point of ridiculous in regards to the amount of flame coming out the door that should be avoided? I thinkk the set up goes to 30psi. I hear some guys running 20 but never had the nerve to turn up that high. It's all subjective given that all forges are different. You guys have a much better understanding of the limits of a 3/4 burner than I do. Sounds like a 1" maybe be too big. Although I make mostly small things for furniture hardware, I do need to be able to make tooling and and such that comes from larger stock. And there are some things that should be forge welded together. Im unsure if the forge burner is up to the task or I've been holding back on the fuel. Sorry for late response. I appreciate any tips you can offer.

Hi guys thank for taking the time to give me some tips. Its very much appreciated. Frosty,Jeff, Mikey, The couple of things I like about the Mathewson design is the built in fire brick doors and stock rest, handle on top, size is ok for most things I endeavor. It is what they call now the metalsmith forge... I bought it about 10 years ago. I'm a woodworker who moonlights as a hardware maker for my own furniture I make. So handles and nails and hasps etc...Ive used the forge very sporadically over the ten years. Maybe only put less than 100 gallons thru it. Heres the specs... ( this model actually has 2" of insulation)... 1x MetalSmith Forge Outer dimensions 13 x 13 x 14″ Chamber dimensions 4½ x 4 x 9″ Body wall Extra thick ¼″ steel Chamber insulation 2″ rigidized, sealed & cement-coated ceramic fiber Slideable fire brick doors on both sides Flux resistant fire brick floor Adjustable material rest Carry handle 1x Propane Burner Length 12″ Heat output 150.000 BTU Adjustable choke Nozzle diameter 1½″ Nozzle material Heavy wall stainless steel Orifice Precision machined brass 1x Propane Regulator Pressure range 0-30 PSI I was not impressed when it was first delivered, There were cracks in the refractory that I felt were from too thick and drying too fast but some cracks around the fire brick seemed like they came from shifting of the brick in travel. Shipping to Hawaii is brutal and it probably should have been packed better. I never coated the interior with kiln wash. I don't believe it came with it. I did call the guy when he still actually had customer service and he sent me a bag of cement to patch the areas. It did "OK" for most things. In the recent project I needed to weld some flat spring lock bolts. ( just a folded piece of steel) I did manage to get thru it but the interior of the forge has started coming apart and needs maintenance now. I never liked the choke action and have had doubts about how fuel and air are mixing in the tube after reading many many many post about forges and burners. Its now has rusted a bit and I should probably give it a good cleaning, its just iron pipe. To get small parts to a yellow white color I had to pound about 16psi into the forge with the choke open, then cut it back just as I put the part in that had been preheating in the door opening, so it was already orange-ish. Mostly trying not to burn the thin flat spring section of what I was making. It was the only way I found I could get the temp and atmosphere, drive the heat with lots of air and then cut it back when the preheated part went in. Mikey, I looked at the Volcano and huh, looks like their kit would be everything I need to rehab my forge. Cheaper and easier than sourcing all the stuff individually. Do you feel that the sundries that are in the kit are good enough to work with? I will take some pics of the deteriorating interior. I worry for it but I have never seen the outside of the forge get beyond a black blue hot. The little bit of welding I did were on broken pieces of a pizza stone which seemed to work fine for a sacrificial surface. If you all want to check out what I've been making there's pics on Instagram at www.instagram.com/matsukazeshigotoba and a gallery of my finished work on www.instagram.com/matsukazemokkou its all mostly woodwork stuff. I mostly recreate 19th century Japanese type cabinetry and architectural work. Most of the iron hardware is impossible to source now so I've been making what I need to. Thanks again for the replies. All your comments are much appreciated. Aloha, Correy

Hi guys. looking for a venturi type tube burner to swap out in the Mathewson's forge I have which is a 3/4 and barely will get yellow/white and can not in a reducing atmosphere. The forge is actually a decent design and size. The burner not so much. Takes about 45 minutes to get to peak temps which are under whelming. Looking for a user friendly plug and play that won't break the bank. Any suggestions?

Hey guys, sorry to hop on a current thread but relates to it. I am just getting it all together. Green as all get out. I have a , er, "forge" , some fire brick canted in a "V" shape with perforated pipe with blower. Works great! I have been using the charcoal left over from my smoke house, But yeah it goes quick. Has anyone tried a little coal mixed with the charcoal or will if make the fire too inconsistent to get in the grove with it? Great forum, thanks for all your contributions! Correy Smith Matsukaze Woodworking Hilo,Hawaii