pamike

hows it working? is that bent tube steel or copper? I was thinking of building one too but I thing leaving the oil tube back inside the pipe about 1 to 2" would be better so it will vaporize better.

any photos of the front foot under the horn?

I got this anvil yesterday and I have been working on cleaning it up. it measures 30 3/4" tip of horn to heel the face is 4 1/8" wide and it is 12 1/8" high. I have not found any weight markings yet but I am guessing it is well over 200 pounds.















the Trenton logo is just above this stamp which reads Solid Wrought.

we have a hardware store locally that has a stone center that makes thier own concrete blocks and firebrick, they also sell alot of furnaces so I might be able to find something there.

whatever you do, DONT use portland, best thing to use is fireclay, most building supply places have it,
i have crushed up firebricks and used it as grog for refractory, what i used was grog(crushed firebricks) fireclay and silica sand, i cant remember the amounts of each, but mostly grog
bentonite works but from what i have been told it wont take the temps that real fireclay will, and over time will fall apart

Ron

also an electric air mattress pump might work. I got one that really puts out alot of air.

maybe you could get a piece of log about waist high and some railroad spikes and sike the tie plate into the log, that should eliminate the "bounce". then after you get a "real" anvil you could cut it down enough to keep the face of the anvil waist high. Well at least that is what I would do.

he just had the thing sitting in a big metal pan to catch the oil.

I was also thinking about the fuel oil gun out of a furnace. but when all is said and done I honestly think that if I want a gas forge I would be better off with propane or natural gas. How would natural gas rate in terms of cost and effiency? I already have natural gas readily available, I would just have to do a little pipe work to get it to my shop but nothing too difficult.

is that a tie plate you are using for an anvil? I can get literally tons of them, I'll have to pick a few up to use till I can get a "real" anvil.

the origional babington design calls for a #87 drill (.010") the guy in the video used a #80 so that might make a difference.

I think I will put this project on hold and concentrate on building my coal forge.

I know this has been discussed before but here is a fairly new twist. watch this viseo on youtube. YouTube - How to build a Babington Burner

do you think this would be able to heat a small forge to welding temps? I also have a few ideas to simplify the whole process.

I thought it soulded like a great way for us beginners to hone our skills and even get a little constructive criticism.

call one of the coal companies and ask if they sell it by the truckload.

Is there a blacksmith around the Dubois, PA area that would be willing to show a newb the basics? I know of a guy in Falls Creek that did some demos at the Sykesville Ag & Youth Fair but I don't know how to contact him. Any help would be greatly apreciated.

HUMPHREY CHARCOAL This is a lump charcoal maker and supplier.

I'm new here. I am from Reynoldsville, PA, Jefferson County. I am looking for someone to show me the basics as I am learning this art. I plan to build a good coal forge, and make trapping supplies and other things with it.

Mike