pamike
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Posts posted by pamike
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any photos of the front foot under the horn?
i'll try to get them tomorrow. -
I got this anvil yesterday and I have been working on cleaning it up. it measures 30 3/4" tip of horn to heel the face is 4 1/8" wide and it is 12 1/8" high. I have not found any weight markings yet but I am guessing it is well over 200 pounds.
the Trenton logo is just above this stamp which reads Solid Wrought. -
we have a hardware store locally that has a stone center that makes thier own concrete blocks and firebrick, they also sell alot of furnaces so I might be able to find something there.
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whatever you do, DONT use portland, best thing to use is fireclay, most building supply places have it,
i have crushed up firebricks and used it as grog for refractory, what i used was grog(crushed firebricks) fireclay and silica sand, i cant remember the amounts of each, but mostly grog
bentonite works but from what i have been told it wont take the temps that real fireclay will, and over time will fall apart
Ron
what is the fireclay called at the building supply stores? I have a broter-in-law that works at lowes and he hasn't been able to find fireclay. But then again most lowes employees are idiots. -
also an electric air mattress pump might work. I got one that really puts out alot of air.
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maybe you could get a piece of log about waist high and some railroad spikes and sike the tie plate into the log, that should eliminate the "bounce". then after you get a "real" anvil you could cut it down enough to keep the face of the anvil waist high. Well at least that is what I would do.
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he just had the thing sitting in a big metal pan to catch the oil.
I was also thinking about the fuel oil gun out of a furnace. but when all is said and done I honestly think that if I want a gas forge I would be better off with propane or natural gas. How would natural gas rate in terms of cost and effiency? I already have natural gas readily available, I would just have to do a little pipe work to get it to my shop but nothing too difficult. -
is that a tie plate you are using for an anvil? I can get literally tons of them, I'll have to pick a few up to use till I can get a "real" anvil.
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the origional babington design calls for a #87 drill (.010") the guy in the video used a #80 so that might make a difference.
I think I will put this project on hold and concentrate on building my coal forge. -
I know this has been discussed before but here is a fairly new twist. watch this viseo on youtube. YouTube - How to build a Babington Burner
do you think this would be able to heat a small forge to welding temps? I also have a few ideas to simplify the whole process. -
I thought it soulded like a great way for us beginners to hone our skills and even get a little constructive criticism.
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call one of the coal companies and ask if they sell it by the truckload.
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Is there a blacksmith around the Dubois, PA area that would be willing to show a newb the basics? I know of a guy in Falls Creek that did some demos at the Sykesville Ag & Youth Fair but I don't know how to contact him. Any help would be greatly apreciated.
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HUMPHREY CHARCOAL This is a lump charcoal maker and supplier.
They are about 10 minutes from me. I don't know about the lump charcoal but I have bought thier charcoal briquets for the BBQ. They are right, you will taste the difference, it makes your food taste terrible, lol. -
I'm new here. I am from Reynoldsville, PA, Jefferson County. I am looking for someone to show me the basics as I am learning this art. I plan to build a good coal forge, and make trapping supplies and other things with it.
Mike
Waste Oil Forge Burner
in Induction Heating, Oil forges, etc
Posted
hows it working? is that bent tube steel or copper? I was thinking of building one too but I thing leaving the oil tube back inside the pipe about 1 to 2" would be better so it will vaporize better.