son_of_bluegrass

The modern way to "boil" linseed oil it to add chemical driers to it. It generally isn't boiled anymore (some specialty place carry it at quite a mark-up). Frequently the chemicals contain heavy metals (cobalt is common). I try not to breath the fumes and vapors from whatever oil i'm quenching in but to minimize my risk even further, I avoid using oils that may have such additives (motor oil, ATF, anything that says "boiled" etc).
Of course, it's your body. You need to decide what risks you are willing to take.

ron

And if you don't want to wash it down with beer,



The above image was found on
http://blacksmithcoffee.com/

ron

Generally speaking, A-36 should forge weld. But A-36 is a structural grade, which means it has to meet certain structural requirements not a chemical composition. Often A-36 is made with a lot of recycled material and that means it can vary a lot. So while you may forge weld hundreds of pieces of A-36, you may also run across a piece or several or spots in a bar that just doesn't want to forge weld. Go ahead and learn on it but don't get discouraged if you find a piece that gives you fits. Chalk it up to that specific section, get another and try again. Rebar is the same way.

ron

While I don't have a prosthetic (unless you count glasses), there is guy in the local blacksmithing club who lost part of his right (I think) arm and has a prosthetic one from the elbow down. He regularly demos at our meetings and turns out better work than I do.

ron

I started forging by making knives. I knew what a knife was supposed to be. That allowed me to know the end point. Of course I read a few books before hand.

What I would add is to check for a local to you blacksmithing group. Check the ABANA site for an affiliate, if you're in the U.S.

ron

Ok guys I have an issue. I can't get my brake drum charcoal forge to welding temps. I have a bathroom fan for an air supply, 2 inche pipe connects the air supply to the brake drume, on hi the temps are not hi enough to weld. thinking I might be giving it too much air I turned it back a bit, still nothing. the best I can do is in a dark room I get a bright cherry red, just shy of welding heat, I think. I tried to weld a few pieces old strapping and an old hacksaw blade. I could not get it hot enough. any help would be greatly appreciated.

The more details you can supply the better answers you'll get.
First, can you get pictures of your set-up?
How deep is your fire? Charcoal likes a deeper fire than coal. (I've gotten to welding temps with a fire 4 to 6 inches deep.)
Is your forge insulated? It is easier to get hot if you don't lose as much heat.
How do you regulate your air supply? Can you cut it back more? Charcoal doesn't need very much air to produce heat and too much air can blow the heat out of your fire and make it colder.
When you've cut it back, how does the fire change; hotter, colder, no noticeable difference?

Anything else you think might be important?

ron

First take the chip off your shoulder.

I read many posts allowing you your opinion. And some that pointed out why what you think from your experience in a metal shop doesn't work when blacksmithing.
You certainly are entitled to your opinion. BUT when you start by railing against some perceived safety issue that experience has taught others who have been at it longer than you and you basically start by saying they are idiots for not following what you think is right, you can expect grief. Your post that started this was extremely condescending. You may not have intended it that way, but it is how it came across. You were not treated unfairly.

How many posts stated it was ok to forge without eye protection? That is accepted as safe.
As for gloves, I've seen slag or small, hot bits fall into gloves. Gloves require more exertion on the grip that leads to repetitive stress injuries (RSI). RSI can end the hobby. And there are some people who have learned to work properly in gloves who have state they use them.
I've seen hot pieces of metal get bound up in long sleeves. Long sleeves offer limited protection with some very real added dangers.
How many posts agreed with what you stated for welding but talked of how they don't apply when forging?

By the way, welcome to the forum.

ron

Nice forges! Here's my Lively Design for charcoal. Question: if I want to burn coal, whats a good homemade design that'll allow me to shed the clinkers? I've got an extra blower laying around that needs to be breathing!

One of the guys in the local club started with a pipe with holes like the Lively style forge. He found that with coal the clinker would soon plug the holes. His very simple solution was to change the holes to a slot and make his poker so he could slide it done the slot to clear clinker. I don't know if it is the best solution but it is simple.

ron

Depending on the fuel, you may be able to get away with a bicycle pump and a piece of pipe. Some fuels (such as charcoal) do not require a great deal of air. I've read of people using the pumps sold to inflate air mattresses will work. Of course if you go one of these routes you'll be pumping the air and the fire won't get extra air when you aren't pumping. And of course you'll need something fire proof bewteen one of these pumps and the fire (simple piece of pipe).

ron

If you care to try, I've heard cow dung will work once it's dry.
I've also heard corn will work (and I imaging other grains will as well). If there are trees nearby you can take down (or some other suitable wood supply) you can make charcoal.
It sounds like you're fairly new to blacksmithing. Have you looked at the ABANA site to see if there is an affiliate in your neck of the woods?


ron

To some extent your forge and blower will dictate whether coal or coke is more suitable. I've never used coke, but have read it needs constant air flow and maybe more air. So if you have a hand crank blower you may be struggling to keep the fire going. Likewise if your blower is on the small side.
Yes coke is made from coal. It is like charcoal and wood. Coke is what you get once you burn the volatiles out of the coal. I've heard 60 to 70 lbs of coal will make about 50 lbs of coke.
You forge with the coke, by the way, not coal. You burn the coal around the outside (or off to one side) of your fire and rake it into the fire as it becomes coke. The coal will stay lit with ambient air for longer than the coke, (due to the volatiles) thus the greater need for air for coke (did I word that to make sense?).
I have used charcoal (prefer it actually). You'll find, if you aren't used to coal, that the coal needs more air than the charcoal. You will be feeding the fire less with coal than charcoal and the fire doesn't need to be as deep (doesn't hurt that I can tell).


ron

Impressive knife. Even moreso that you forged it with your fist, I have to use a hammer.

ron

Oops. Sorry. Duplicate post.

ron

Some of it depends on the fuel you intend to use. That looks just fine to me for charcoal. For coal you probably don't need that deep.
The problem with the size of pipe (again fine for charcoal) is that the blast will be stronger for a given amount of air flow. You may find you either blow your fuel out of the fire pit or you may have problems getting hot enough for some things.

Since you're just starting, have you looked around the ABANA site for a local affliate? You may find you are just around the corner from a lot of blacksmiths.

ron

Many years ago there was a study done on mixing fly ash from power plants with concrete and using that to make artificial reefs. I forget just how much ash went into the mix, I seem to recall there were several different mixes the one with the highest concentration I seem to recall was rather high. The focus of the study was to see if the heavy metal components would leach into the water and harm or prevent anything from living in the area. By that study it didn't have an adverse effect. So if you have a concrete project coming up, save your clinker and ash to mix into the concrete.

ron

As has been mentioned, drink water before you start anything, Drink a little bit frequently. Don't over do the gatoraid style drinks (I go with fruit juice, lemonade and tea). You lose more water than anything so that should be most of what you drink. Eating fruit (especially those with a high water content) is good.
If you start feeling like you've overdone it, STOP WORKING, immediately. Find some place cool but not cold. Sip on cool or lukewarm water, if you try to drink something too cold your body won't like it. You likely will throw up, may pass out and from there thing just get worse. And if you've overdone it, it may be wise to seek medical attention and take a day or three off (or work indoors where it is cool.
Having air moving can help but remember that is helping the sweat evaporate. Yes it cools your body but you need to replace the water. Wearing a minimal amount of clothing can help but don't skimp on safety gear. Our bodies are designed to stay cool, but that doesn't work as well when wearing a lot of clothes.
If you can avoid working during the heat of the day that is a good idea.

Ron
who just yesterday dug some 3 bushels of potatoes in the evening after the temp dropped to the low 90's.

Who says they can't shave their legs with a straight razor?

A sharp straight razor is the best shave you can get. A dull straight razor is the worst shave you can get.

I happen to think thin and hard makes for a good knife (not razor thin but that hard), it will slice like nobody's business. That is how i make my personal knives. Of course I don't chop or pry with them.

ron

The difference between diameter and circumference is Pi (pie? I'll take key lime). There for the ratio of diameters between two wheels would be the same as the ratio of the circumferences of those same two wheels. I don't know it the number of teeth on the cogs makes a difference or not.

ron

What steel are you using?
What speed are you drilling?
What size drill bit?
Are you using cutting fluid or lubricant?
If so what kind?
What kind of drill bit?
How much pressure on the drill?
Did you remove the scale?
What did you do to the steel after forging (anneal, normilize, clean scale etc)?

The more details you offer the better the answers you will receive.

ron

Just something to consider on #2, when I was in the army a number of other soldiers bought rolling paper and tobacco to roll their own cigarettes. Some did it for the shock value (superiors suspecting something other than tobacco), others did it to burn pipe tobacco without having to carry a pipe.
I'm sure there are a number who would buy the paper without the intent of using tobacco but there are some who buy it for use with tobacco. So long as nothing illegal us being sold I wouldn't have a problem.

ron

Different alloys have different lower and upper forging temperature limits. I've never worked stainless so I can't give you any guidance there.
I have worked in direct sunlight and in my experience, the steel can appear black and not yet be cold enough to regain magnetism. For the simple steel I work with that means in full sun it is still within forging range when it appears black.
I suggest you find some sort of shade where you can better judge color. If that is unattainable then you'll just have to get good and knowing when to stop hitting by the way the steel moves or doesn't.

ron

60 years old & always wanted to forge a knife. Recently found a new shovel with broken handle. Typically, is the steel in a shovel blade worth fooling around with? I realize I can't identify the kind of steel in the blade, but am I totally wasting my time playing with it?

All the shovels I've ever owned with the sole exception of fireplace shovels have been hardened enough to take an edge. Therefore they are suitable for knifes. They may not make the best knife but should cut. Most shovels are thin enough I wouldn't bother with forging, just cut the shape heat once to flatten then heat treat.

I would expect the shovel to be something like 1080. You'll have to play with the heat treat to know what it takes, I'd start like it was 1080 and if that didn't work adjust as the results dictated.

If you haven't already, look on the ABANA site for an affillate local to you and attend some meetings.


ron

The biggest problem I see with converting nippers to tongs is that nippers will be some form of tool steel (even if just high carbon steel). Not a problem if you normalize the tongs after the conversion and don't quench them.

ron

The horseshoe looks the same but no letters in the middle. The letters on mine are along the rim of the shoe. First letter is an A and last letter is an E there are letters in between but have been ground away. Thanks for all your guys help.

I finally got to the file of Nicholson brands. It could be Arcade. If it works I'll attach the file for those who are interested.

ron

When I was in Texas, I saw a wooden forge. It was well lined with some refractory so there was no problems with the wood getting hot. I plan on making a copy of it based on my memory. (mostly because I need to rebuild my forge and wood is what I have on hand.)


So it all depends on how well insulated the forge is so it doesn't overheat the wood.

ron