hammerhandsyd

note: one of the forges is going to be a side draft and one of them will have no hood

thanks every one ill check out all the items u recomended. i liked the idea of one chiminey with seprate pipe chimenys inside it. i am located in the our skirts of town were only the noise from a nice beautiful anvil is a problem, the chimenys lead to the back of my property so the smoke will disapate before it clears the tree line even if i have all 4 forges running. i will only have all forges runing maybe once a year.

im biulding a shop that has a forge, exept that its realy 4 diffrent forges. im debating wether or not to connect all forges witth a chimmeny or just have four diffrent chimmenys
blue prints would be nice:D

cut the cable open on one side then take out the cord then add a low carbon, weld to gether with an edge of low carbon stick out oposet the edge so it will curl

what give the sever isnt found, you guys have that happen to you?

well thomas any tip for hardening and tempering, i think ill do that. i dont have any torch cept a puny 10'' tall gas one.

ill try a widling knife with file steel so ill follow that oil quench thingy(is linseed ok or do i have to use some crude oil thing?)

dose any one know of a cheap cuting torch? i dont care if it dosnt cut well as long as i can use it for tempering and bending

i think the shop is great, i mean i do all my stuf in a 7'*4' area. i agree with welder you should have the anvil at a 90d angle from the forge, you should have a removable post vice near your slack tub (in posting on the pic not if you move it) or your welding table. have a aneling bucket or stand out side and a area were you can add on the your shop if it gets to crouded.(post vices are a dime a dozen so dont pay over 80 for a EXELENT one)
syd

well i meant com short for commission, i dont ask what my people want em for unless its gona be for food deco or blades, he said it needs to be sharp enough to cut bronze. well i dont realy have a steel suppplier cause most of my metal is old scrap and i dont use rebar so im never gona go to the bar factory.
my "teacher dosnt really know the carbon point of metal cause he never makes knifes and when he dose its just outa files

oh and by the by do any of you know bill senseny if you do could you direct me to his email or phone #?

thomas i do read your posts, u gota under stand that 50 piont carbon means squat to me, im a newbie and i have very little knowledge of smithing terms, im making spike knifes and spear heads for a com, the guy wants em hard and to hold edges while shearing bronze. i know thr amount of carbon in steel dose not determin how hard the metal is, it (i think) means how hard it can get. i dont wanna peev you and i aint gona argue cause im a neophite.
syd

sweet man im here with my facination to but more puposeful than abstract and if you want to get high carbon steel spike knifes just make em into blister steel, there might be a blue [rint for it here or just look on my thread in the blacksmithing section.
syd

helloo im sydney im a aprentice and am knew to this big game so if any of you know a smith neer northfield ma id be glad to have his or her contact info:D

im thinkin that the carbon conntent of my knifes is gona be high, tohigh for file sharpen and its also gona have some funky shapes and curls

hey dose any one know of a blade smith in MA if so post it on my thread in blade finishes

if you want to etch a hamon line you could use a plate steel box filled with salt watr with a comp power generator for your power and cover the blade a protevtive coating the scrap away the coating were you want it to be etched

thanks rich ill take peek at that print but thomas how do i treat the steel to get it hard ness back, quench it or would that jus crap the metal?

hi guys and gals, i was wondering how i could harden my mild steel cause i want to make some knifes out of low carbon and the get em nice high carbon without touching the metal with a hammer
any hints methods info?

coltpax wad you mean by cleaning it up?, clean it like scrubing it or wash it?

thanks acoop ill try that, as for what im using the finish for well.....knifes that are used as utilities, forks, shields, swords idbee nice if the seal is food grade but idc. im ok if its two sealers layered ,

hi, I need a sealer or sealers to help me fininsh my work.
i need the sealent to be clear in the end(if i can buff in clear its okay)
only need to applie once
not $100 an once
durable