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I Forge Iron

Chestnut Forge

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Posts posted by Chestnut Forge

  1. I repaired one once that was like that, but not as bad. I bought a piece of armor plate steel (I can't remember the alloy). Drilled through the body in three places in a line down the center. Tack welded the new steel on the face and use a long punch to mark it. Then drill and tap the new steel. counter sink the holes in the anvil body at the under side. Use long bolts to hold it together and weld the new face on. The trick was heat treating it. Did all that make sense?

  2. I need some opinions. I think I have a stand for my 100# HB sorted out. I have an old hot water tank that is 16 inches in diameter. If I cut it 24 inches tall, it will put the anvil face where I need it. The question is: should I fill it with plain sand of some sort of mix? I'm not going to use concrete. I thought about a clay/sand mix and ram it in damp.

  3. A few years back, I has at the Highland Games in Ligonier, Pa. The was a smith set up doing a demo. I like to watch others work, learn some neat tricks that way. Anyway, The smith is whipping through making cup hooks and s hooks. He was using tongs for most of the work. This 20 something kids says loud enough for everyone to hear " He's not a real blacksmith! A real blacksmith only uses a hammer and shoes horses." I tried to explain to him how wrong he was but the smith just laughed and shrugged, said it happens all the time.

  4. Shoot I don't even quench A36 these days, everything gets normalized.

     

    And I have run into HC support arms on old RR telegraph lines IIRC; thanks for reminding me.  Of course mine were so old any Galvanization was gone by then...

    I quenched so that I could flip them around to work the other end, or I would have just let the sit awhile.

  5. Is the extraction mounted in the flow of the smoke?   I'm using charcoal in my forge and don't have a hood over it yet. The little bit of smoke that it makes just gets sucked out by an exhaust fan mounted at the peak of my garage roof. I do keep a fire extinguisher two step away, though. The only problem that I have is the ash, it is heavy enough that not all of it gets pulled out. If I understand this, you are using something like a shop-vac motor/blower?

  6. I got the project done. Not my best work but, I think it turned out ok. I haven't really done and smithing for over ten years. The steel is some type of HC. I had to change the design when the hook snap off the bottom end of one bracket while I was setting a copper rivet at the other end. Shouldn't have quenched........

  7. I haven't beat iron in awhile and I'm kinda out of shape. But, I had fire in the old forge this evening. The Love of my life wants a pair of wall brackets to hang big candle lanterns on. I have four scrap 1 1/4 x 1/8 straps 28 inches long , perfect to forge the brackets. My FIL gave them to me. They were hanging on the back wall of his garage since he was a kid. Anyway, this stuff is red hard. I had to bring it to a bright yellow to move metal with a 2 pound hammer. I did a spark test and it is some sort of high carbon steel. The were galvanized when I got them. I stripped them with muriatic acid. Do you folks think that the acid could have effected the steel in some way? Kinda like nitrate hardening?

     

  8. That's a heck of an anvil you made yourself there. How's it work?

     

    Frosty The Lucky.

    It's not bad. Rebound is really good, but I need to harden the face. I think that the welding heat annealed it and my son/helper needs to learn some hammer control. Since it is welded to the I-beam base it had one heck of a ring. Fixed that by welding a couple of straps across the webs, took it down to a ping. I put magnets on the base and now it is just a thud. BTW, my son is like most guys getting started. Just wants to make knives.......sigh.

  9. Thanks. It took awhile to make. The body is 10 inch diameter and 7 inches tall. I used a hunk of 60 lb rail for the face. Split the web off, cut two ten inch pieces and welded them together. The "horn" is 1 3/4 round. I put the body on the cross slide of my lathe and drilled a 9/16 hole two inches deep. Turned a shank on the end of the 1 3/4. I used the lathe to spin/press fit them together. The heel is one of the plates that goes between rails and ties.

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