dks119

I use mild steel.  get close without kiss blocks and lighten blows as I contact blocks.  hence, I assume, the term "kiss"  block.

7 hours ago, ThomasPowers said:

Tyler; too bad you don't live in the United States of America as a number of the ABANA Affiliates here have offered Anvil Repair Days. (I've been to ones in Ohio and New Mexico for example).  At them you can get repair work done using the proper tools, alloys, preheat/postheat, etc.  I don't know if such things are offered in any of the 149 other countries that participate here so I can't speak to their availability.  As you can see knowing the general location of a person makes a big difference in answers...Why we suggest people edit their profile to include it as so many questions have a location component.

If you are in Northern Mexico near Juarez; let me know as I know a great anvil repair guy just across the border in Las Cruces New Mexico! (And I cross the border to work and so we could arrange transportation for it...)

Thomas, I am in santa teresa occasionally and have a mousehole that the face is worn paper thin and cracked full width in one place (the thinnest).  I would be interested in the information about the repairman.  I live in mo.  I have a son working in cruces.  I think you visited with my other son occasionally at the santa teresa checkpoint.

U.S. Military Surplus PA154 Ammo Can   $22

check military surplus ammo boxes.  can't remember the designation but i'm using one maybe 6"wx14"Lx32'T with removable sealed lid.   available several places.

sodium bisulfide

16 hours ago, ThomasPowers said:

Funny one of the Border Patrol's father is a knifemaker at Silver Dollar City; I've sometimes chatted with him when crossing the border going to and from work.

I've always felt that the forging was the fun part and the grinding and finishing was the work part.  Good to see there are folks that feel the opposite!

that would be me.  that son is now in montana.  have another works out of las cruces.  been lurking here for years, every morning. agree 100% about the forging.

my 25#LG had a flat belt when i got it and ran for several years before the belt failed.  i had an old auto serpentine laying around that was a perfect length.  put it on original flat drive wheel and  it worked immediately and perfectly now for several years.

centaur forge did have a bunch of kuhn dies on clearance the last time i looked.

glad you enjoyed your visit. sorry had to share it with a crowd. the wife is a good sport :)

i am a blacksmith at silver dollar city in branson, mo. we are a 1880's theme park similar to dollywood. we are in need of a blacksmith/sandcaster for seasonal (about 9 months per year) employment. would prefer someone with some blacksmithing skills as the sandcasting is much easier to learn. helps to be a people person as most of the work is done in front of guests.
call 417 338-2611 and ask for human relations.

i am in branson, mo. have a 150# hay budden i'll sell for $450. solid, edges good, silver dollar sized depression in center fo face, i would guess from some kind of repetitive work. face is solid. might could get it to west plains.

need to locate replacement oiler similiar to original for kuhnB1 hammer. centaur couldn't help. drip oiler doesn't function in same way as original. any help appreciated, sale, new or used, source, advice?

thank you, dennis k. smith

makes great snakes and tent stakes

one of the old blacksmith's journal had plans for a four-tined garden fork. as always, excellently illustrated with detailed step-by-step. last time i checked he still had back issues available on his web page.

WARNING!!! Kevlar gloves are very dangerous. Low heat is fine, but I received one of my worst burns in 38 years of forging by using a kevlar glove. While forge welding the scale and flux came back on my hand and the kevlar melted onto my skin! Not good for high temps so why risk it?

are those high carbon spikes? i've made about 600 of those HC quenching the whole blade in water with no problems with cracking. i started edge quenching only in plain water and had a 40% edge crack failure rate. floated 1/4 in or less ATF on water, no more cracks. still get a very hard edge, file right at skates. about 100 so far with this method.

side note: i've read everything i can find on spike knives, general concensus is they won't harden appreciably. that has not been my experience. please don't construe this as a "these are a great knife steel" statement. i sell them as a novelty with the explanation that they are minimal carbon content for a servicable knife and that i make them as good as i can make them.

What u think of these Spikes?(small ones of course.)What should i do with them?

need to find a source for mine track spikes, new or used. those miniature rail spikes used in mines. would be interested in watever amount i can get up to 200 or 300. am located in mo. any help appreciated.

was a member for perhaps 10-12 years, starting as less than a beginner. have since moved to missouri. great organization, great people, regional conferences. wife and i "vacationed" at the annual state conference many years, took children when they were younger. exceptional coal at good prices. check their web site if you havn't. money well spent.

i too have several of the "MC" spikes and have wondered about content. in the same place i used to find lots of HC spikes i now find only the MC. seems to be more recent manufacture based only on condition and apparent age of spikes i've found.

appreciate all the input. i know it's a fair deal, problem is , i don't need it bad enough to buy it unless it is a real good deal. still thinking and coveting.
thanks again

i looked at a fifty # LG new style near my home. saw it run. everything is tight, no repairs. owner is elderly and it was his dad's. been in the family shop for well over fifty years.
he won't sell it without a nice 127# mousehole anvil, a dozen sets of tongs, and an old forge with electric champion blower. forge and tuyere are home made. in missouri.
i offered $2500, he wants $3000. undecided, as i have a nice 25# and don't need the anvil or forge.
any opinions? if i decide i don't want it i will divulge information:)