Jump to content
I Forge Iron

Savage

Members
  • Posts

    145
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by Savage

  1. 32 minutes ago, Charles R. Stevens said:

    By finding a bimetallic hole saw that fits in the "T", and removing the 1/4" guide drill from it, it becomes a centering guid to drill the hole to tap for the 1/8" pipe fiting that holds the mig tip come gas jet. This is if you do not have acces to a grill press

    Hey thats actualy pritty vool idea thanx for shating that i will definitely consider it. Looks like my drill just needs new motor bushes so ill search around and try find new ones thanx.

  2. On 8/7/2017 at 7:55 PM, Charles R. Stevens said:

    http://www.blacksmither.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/10/T-Burner-Directions-finished-1.pdf

    here is a link to the pdf. Sorry it's in American, not the Queens English. It also has a bit of a Californian accent. But I trust if a brain damaged old cranky diabetic can build it so can you. 

    You use the hole saw as a drill guid if you don't have a buddy wish a drill press you can bribe with a pint or two

     

    Can you explain the hole saw thing sounds interesting 

  3. Ok can one of you please link me to an online store that sells the correct parts i might be able to get some tooks if i take a drive to my friends house its abit far away but i havent forged anything in 3 years so its becoming abit much and i dont want to bother you guys anymore than i have. 

    Ps i have no idea what these fittings are called in countries outside of new zealand so i have trouble looking for them on google

  4. 2 hours ago, Frosty said:

    You don't really understand what we're saying do you? 

    Contact Larry Zoeller and buy a burner or kit. You've either missunderstood or are disregarding everything I've said so far.  If you look at the last picture you just posted you can easily see the jet is misaligned. To work AT ALL the jet must be aimed straight down the mixing tube. Your's is WAY off and surprise of surprises it appears to be pushed off center by the set screw.

    I have to disagree with Mike, the side arm isn't a failed design. Properly mad they work quite well. Your's unfortunately is a failed build. Contact Larry or Wayne Coe and buy a kit. Seriously you'll be much happier and have a good working burner.

    Frosty 

    Thanx for all the replies guys i will make an update when i have some improvements with this design. Buying a burner would be my first plan if i had the money which i dont and wont for a while as im saving for my wedding so at the moment all my extra funds are going to the wedding fund. I will just play around with it until it fixed.

  5. Ok sorry guys i should of mentioned a few things. Firstly the reason im using the 1/2 brass plug drilled (on a lathe as well as the stainless tube for gas delivery) is because i had this made a few years ago for my 1/2 i ch burner and right now im not in the position to get a 1inch plug drilled as i jave no access to a lathe anymore and also i have limited tools including lack of a drill this brass plug is perfectly center even with the 1/2 to 1 inch adapter in place. 

     

    I will attach some more pictures to give you guys a better idea of the burner design, if someone in the us is willing to collect these items i would be more than willing to pay for them aswel as shipping, i know thats a lazy way of doing it but the people on here will know exactly what to get aswel as what theyre called. 

    Let me know what you think of the pics

    20170807_102602.jpg

    20170807_102608.jpg

    20170807_102743.jpg

    The welding tip and stainless supply line can literally go all the way to the brass plug, you could hold even just the tip of the mig tip in with that set screw, as well as this it can also go right the way down the burner mouth so it has fully adjustability with that part, i dont currently have a choke on this due to not having a drill.

     

    2 hours ago, Mikey98118 said:

    To begin with, what you have built so far, is called a side-arm burner; it is a failed design. You would be much better off to rebuild it into a "T" burner.

    Rejoice! Your minor burner problem has slowed you down enough to fix a major problem with your forge, before its too late. You need to re-position your burner opening, so the the burner's flame will impinge on the forge floor's nearest to the burner side, and about one-third of the way in from the floor's near edge; this will give you the best use from your forge. Where the burner opening is positioned now, would give you the least heat in exchange for the shortest use of your insulting refractory wall; a very bad bargain indeed.

    You lucky devil; aren't you glad you had burner problems now? :)

    Thanx for the advice, i didnt mention this but i dont plan on using it as a side burner forge i just stuffed it up when i cut the hole so all i will do is shift the insulation abit so that the burner points straight down into the fire bricks instead of the kaowool wall

  6. So pulling the gas supply tube back only seems to make that wierd noise get louder and more unstable sounding. I might be wrong in saying this but could a almost empty bottle be causing this? I know it sou ds dumb to questioning that at this stage but i can still here liquid in it and it still has enough pressure to burn the 1/2 inch burner set up no problems.

  7. Hey Frosty, as always your the first to help so thanx.

    Firstly thanx for the warning about the galv burning although im aware of it already its good to see people out there still care for others.

    As to the 1"x8" your guess is as good as mine ive literally looked at every local store in my area for longer nipples but all they stock is the small ones i got, there is a store abit further awaythat aparently stock a number of specialty connections including black pipe but my problem is i only get off work 3 days a month and all my days are on the weekend when unfortunately this store is close not to mention its miles away from my area grrrr. 

    As to your advice for adjusting the gas tube a bit further up the burner body I have honestly tried every position it could be in including as far back as the brass plug alows, this is why i am pulling my hair out at this.

  8. Hey guys so ive made a new forge from an air compressor and a new 1 inch burner and for some reason my burner flame doesnt seem to wanna stay put it keeps jumping from a good clean cone shape to just plane blue flames and is making a wierd sound i can only describe as a combination of a bottle cap rattling and a popping sound. The burner parts ive used are the best i can find in my area and the burner tube is the longest i could find in one section so i got 2.

    Burner parts are as follows: 

    2 1 inch nipples 4 inch long

    2 1 inch to 1 inch connectors 

    A 1 inch T

    A 1 inch to 1/2 inch bush

    A 1/2 inch brass plug center driller to fit my jet inlet

    A .8mm mig tip (ive tried varias sizes with no change)

    A stainless steel tube for gas supply with the end threaded for the mig tip.

    Im unsure of the real names of these so bare with me. Please if anyone can see why this isnt working please point it out because im usualy not too bad at getting these going. I have the burner connected to a 9kg lpg bottle with a 0-15 psi regulator which ive used flawlessly in the past with my 1/2 inch burner setup this burner was idetical to the new one except it doest require a bush to convert it from 1 inch to 1/2 inch for burner jet tube. Pics will be added for referances.  Thanx for any help20170805_211711.thumb.jpg.e909cfb443d77a03c74a3f86859894b6.jpg

    20170805_211726.jpg

    20170805_211846.jpg

    20170805_212328.jpg

    Forgot to mention the flame as ignites inside the burners down tube so basicly instead of burning at the end of the burner like it should itll be lit inside the tube 

  9. Greetings Savage,

    Its a tire patch clamp as the guys have said.. You can use it to hold sheet metal together when spot welding.. works slick...

    Jim



    Good idea although i dont spot weld anything but an idea just struck me, what about a secondary vice to hold a knife in the main vice whilste draw filing? I might have to remove the spikey jaw part first so i dont damage my blades.
  10. probly just use a piece of stainless for the guard as brass isn't cheap here, im trying to find some antler for the handle but its near imposible to find people selling it in my area but I wkill keep trying so for now it will have a wood handle unless I find antler before it comes to that part. how would I get the guard to go on if the recaso part is rounded

×
×
  • Create New...